TRADE    "SECRETS 


PRIVATE    RECIPES. 


A  COLLECTION  OF 

RECIPES,  PROCESSES  AND   FORMQL^, 

I  [I  \  I    It  WE  BEEN  OFFERED  F(  IR  SALE  BY  VARIOUS  PERSONS  AT 

PRICKS  RANGING  FROM  TWENTY-FIVE  LENTS  TO 

FIVE  HUNDRED  DOLLARS. 


WITH  NOTES,  CORRECTIONS,  ADDITIONS  AND  SPECIAL 
HINTS  FOR  IMPROVEMENTS. 


BY 

JOHN     PHIN, 

AUTIIOIJ     OF    "IIDW     TO     USB     THE     MICROSCOPE,"      "CHEMICAL     HISTORY    OF    THE    SIX 
DAYS    OF    CREATION,"    "THE    WORKSHOP    COMPANION,"    ETC,   ETC. 

ASSISTED    BY    AN    EXPERIENCED    AND    SKILFUL    PHARMACIST. 


NEW    YORK  i 

INDUSTRIAL    PUBLICATION    COMPANY. 

1887. 

[Copyright  secured,  1887,  by  John  Phin.] 


. 


PREFACE. 


Thb  present  work  was  prepared  by  the  author  for  the  purpose 
of  collecting  and  presenting  in  a  compact  form  all  those  recipes 
and  so-called  "trade  secrets"  which  have  been  so  extensively 
advertised  and  offered  for  sale.  During  fifteen  years'  connection 
with  several  technical  journals  the  author  has  had  occasion  to 
examine,  either  personally  or  through  competent  experts,  a  large 
number  of  these  recipes.  Many  of  those  which  have  been  offered 
for  sale  needed  no  examination  ;  they  were  no  "  secrets,"  but  old 
and  well  known  formulae,  and  the  selling  of  them  at  prices  ranging 
from  25  cents  to  $10  was  simply  a  fraud.  Well  known  formu'33 
for  inks,  cements  and  washing  flxids  have  been  thus  offered,  and 
it  is  a  notable  fact  that  in  no  case  have  we  obtained  anything  really 
new  or  any  important  improvement  when  we  have  purchased  such 
recipes.  In  most  cases  the  formulae  are  sent  just  as  they  are  copied 
from  standard  books  of  recipes ;  in  others  slight  changes  have  been 
made,  but  in  no  case  has  such  change  been  an  improvement. 

In  many  cases  these  advertisements  of  "valuable  recipes"  are 
put  out  by  boys,  who  frequently  operate  under  high-sounding 
names  of  companies  which  exist  only  on  paper;  in  their  circulars 
they  offer  to  send  recipes  for  anything,  and  when  they  get  an  order 
for  something  they  have  not  got,  they  go  to  the  nearest  public 
library  and  copy  the  formula  which  seems  to  come  nearest  to  the 
wants  of  their  customer. 

It  is  needless  to  say  that  in  many  cases  the  recipes  thus  furnished 
will  be  found  defective  or  misleading.  The  private  formulee  of  the 
preparations  that  are  manufactured  and  sold  by  prominent  houses 
have  never  been  published,  and  the  formulae  given  by  the  recipe 
books  are  mere  guesses  by  pharmacists  and  others.  The  difficulty 
of  making  a  correct  analysis  of  complicated  organic  mixtures  is  so 
great  that  no  reliance  can  be  placed  in  the  conclusions  of  these 
men. 


iT  PEFFACE. 

Those  articles  of  manufacture  which  require  extensive  plant — 
sucb  as  the  acids  and  more  important  chemicals— we  have  entirely 
omitted,  for  the  simple  reason  that  no  man  in  his  senses  would 
undertake  the  manufacture  of  these  compounds  on  a  commercial 
scale  without  first  employing  a  competent  and  thoroughly  educated 
chemist ;  and  yet  the  description  of  the  apparatus,  etc.,  ust  d  in  their 
production  occupies  a  large  space  in  most  books  of  recipes. 

There  are  several  important  products,  such  as  celluloid,  oleo- 
margarine, etc  ,  all  mention  of  which  has  been  omitted,  bt^cause 
they  are  protected  by  patents,  and  therefore  cannot  be  lawfully 
manufactured  by  the  public  at  large.  Moreover,  in  regard  to  such 
manufactures,  we  may  remark  that  wherever  any  article  is  covered 
by  a  patent,  the  most  complete  and  exact  description  of  the  best 
methods  of  producing  it  may  be  obtained  from  the  Patent  Office 
by  the  payment  of  a  trifling  fee — a  few  cents  for  every  hundred 
words. 

Most  of  those  who  advertise  recipes  for  sale  hold  out,  as  an 
Inducement  to  purchase,  the  alleged  fact  that  enormous  fortunes 
have  been  made,  and  may  be  made,  by  manufacturing  the  articles 
and  placing  them  on  the  market.  In  offering  this  little  book  we 
make  no  sich  claims.  Making  a  good  article  and  making  money 
by  it  are  two  entirely  different  things.  In  every  case,  howtver, 
we  have  endeavored  to  give  the  formula  for  a  really  good  article, 
for  we  firmly  believe  with  Barnum  that  the  sure  road  to  fortune  is 
first  to  get  a  good  thing,  and  then  to  advertise  it. 

In  examining  and  testing  the  various  formu'se  which  we 
have  givtn,  great  care  has  been  exercised,  and  we  are  coLfident 
that  the  reader  will  find  that  the  notes  and  explanations  which  we 
have  added  will  prove  of  more  value  than  the  cost  of  this  book  • 
and  as  many  of  the  recipes  are  really  of  great  value  even  to  those 
who  never  expect  to  sell  a  dollar's  worth  of  the  products,  the  author 
trusts  that  none  of  his  numerous  readers  will  be  disappointed. 

JOHN  PAIN. 

March,  1887. 


INTRODUCTION. 


Amongst  those  persons  who  have  no  special  trade,  and  who 
have  been  accidentally  thrown  out  of  employment,  many  are 
found  who  desire  to  establish  a  small  manufacturing  business  for 
themselves,  and  who  are  led  by  the  gorgeous  promises  of  dealers 
in  formulae  and  recipes  to  invest  their  little  capital  in  some  such 
enterprise— too  often  only  to  lose  it.  "  How  to  Makb  Money  "  is 
the  refrain  which  is  continually  sounding  in  their  ears,  and  while 
they  have  no  desire  to  shirk  work — and  hard  work  at  that — they 
are  compelled  to  avoid  the  ordinary  trades  and  pursuits,  simply 
because  they  have  never  been  trained  to  them.  And  just  in  pro- 
portion to  the  pressure  of  their  necessities  is  the  greatness  of  their 
hopes,  the  eagerness  of  their  expectations.  That  success  may 
sometimes  be  attained  by  such  persons  is  no  doubt  true,  and  our 
object  in  this  introduction  is  to  point  out  the  mo3t  frequent  causes 
of  failure,  and  to  describe,  as  far  as  our  space  will  allow,  those 
special  matters  of  general  detail  which  are  essential  to  success, 
both  in  manufacturing  and  in  making  money  by  the  manufacture. 
These  two  features  of  any  business  will  be  found  to  be  entirely 
distinct,  and  must  receive  separate  and  careful  attention.  It  does 
not  follow  that  because  a  man  has  secured  a  good  formula,  and 
has  acquired  the  skill  necessary  to  make  a  good  article,  that  there- 
fore he  is  going  to  make  money  by  it,  even  though  the  product 
is  an  article  in  very  general  demand.  Moreover,  the  operator 
must  not  suppose  that  when  he  has  secured  a  good  recipe  and  tbe 
materials  and  utensils  for  compounding  it,  that  he  is  possession 
of  everything  necessary  for  the  production  of  the  desired  article. 
The  simplest  recipe  in  this  book  cannot  be  prepared  of  good 
quality  and  in  presentable  shape  without  a  certain  amount  of  skill 
and  experience;  and  for  the  production  of  some  articles,  such  as 
the  bleaching  liquid,  composed  of  peroxide  of  bydrogeD,  much 
skill  and  a  good  deal  of  experience  will  be  needed.     We  do  not 


vi  INTRODUCTION. 

say  tbis  by  way  of  discouragement,  but  for  the  purpose  of  impress- 
ing upon  our  readers  the  necessity  for  a  thorough  study  of  any 
subj  ct  tbey  may  undertake.  It  is  only  in  this  way  that  excellence 
can  be  attained,  even  in  a  corn  plaster,  and,  other  things  being 
equal,  excellence  will  always  command  the  market. 

The  fact  that  even  the  most  simple  operation  can  not  always 
be  performed  merely  by  following  written  directions,  is  so  well 
known  to  operators  in  the  laboratory  and  so  doubted  by  those 
who  have  had  no  experience,  that  it  is  worth  while  to  relate  a 
couple  of  instances. 

When  guG  cotton  first  became  common,  a  friend  of  ours  who 
bad  a  most  excellent  amateur  laboratory,  and  who  was  quite  a 
skilful  operator,  attempted  to  prepare  some.  He  tried  several 
times  and  failed.  A  friend  who  had  learned  the  process  in 
another  laboratory  called  on  him  one  evening,  took  the  same 
materials  and  the  same  apparatus  and  produced  some  cotton  of 
great  explosive  power,  and  what  was  most  extraordinary,  the  next 
time  the  amateur  tried  it  he  succeeded  perlectly,  though  he  says 
his  friend's  method  of  working  seemed  to  be  in  no  way  different 
from  that  which  be  himself  first  used. 

Babbage,  in  that  most  interesting  work  of  his,  "The  Economy 
of  Machinery  and  Manufactures,"  quotes  the  following  from  the 
evideuce  of  Mr.  Ostler  before  a  Committee  of  the  British  House  of 
Commons.  It  seems  that  Mr.  Ostler  had  received  an  order  for 
$2500  worth  of  doll's  eyes,  and  he  tells  bow  he  tried  to  manufac- 
ture them.  "I  went  into  the  country  and  endeavored  to  make 
them.  I  had  some  of  the  most  ingenious  glass  toy-makers  in  the 
kingdom  in  my  service,  but  when  I  showed  it  to  them,  they  shook 
their  beads  and  said  tbey  had  often  seen  the  article  before  but 
could  not  make  it.  I  engaged  them  by  presents  to  use  their  best 
exertions,  but  after  trying  aud  wasting  a  great  deal  of  time  for 
three  or  four  weeks,  I  was  obliged  to  relinquish  the  attempt. 
Soon  afterwards  I  engaged  in  another  branch  of  business  (chandelier 
furniture),  and  took  no  more  notice  of  it.  About  eighteen  months 
ago  I  resumed  the  trinket  trade,  and  then  determined  to  think  of 
the  doll's  eyes,  and  about  eight  months  since  I  accidentally  met 
with  a  poor  fellow  who  had  impoverished  himself  by  drinking, 
and  who  was  dying  in  a  consumption,  in  a  state  of  great  want.  I 
showed  him  ten  sovereigns,  and  he  said  he  would  instruct  me 


INTRODUCTION.  vii 

in  the  process.  He  was  in  such  a  state  that  he  could  not  bear  the 
effluvia  of  his  own  lamp,  but  though  I  was  very  conversant  with 
the  manual  part  of  the  business,  and  it  related  to  things  I  was 
daily  in  the  habit  of  seeing,  I  felt  I  could  do  nothing  from  his 
description.  (I  mention  this  to  show  how  difficult  it  is  to  convey 
by  description  the  mode  of  working  )  He  took  me  into  his  garret, 
where  the  poor  fellow  had  economized  to  such  a  degree  that  he 
actually  used  the  entrails  and  fat  of  poultry  from  Leadenball 
Market  to  save  oil  (the  price  of  the  article  having  been  latterly  so 
much  reduced  by  competition  at  home  )  In  an  instant,  before  I 
had  seen  him  make  three,  I  felt  competent  to  make  a  gross,  and 
the  difference  between  his  mode  and  that  of  my  own  workmen 
was  so  trifling,  that  I  felt  the  utmost  astonishment."  Mr.  Ostler 
concluded  by  saying  that  he  then  made  doll's  eyes  in  large 
quantities. 

It  will  in  general  be  found  that  mechanical  operations  are 
best  learned  by  the  instruction  of  a  living  teacher ;  but  on  the 
other  band,  most  of  the  compounds  found  in  commerce  may  be 
very  successfully  produced  by  those  who  are  competent  to  follow 
n  correct  and  clearly  expressed  formula.  Some  of  the  most  com- 
mon causes  of  failure  on  the  part  of  the  inexperienced  are  the 
following: 

1.  Impure  materials.  The  extent  to  which  adulteration  and 
substitution  is  carried  in  many  branches  of  trade  is  very  great. 
Not  long  ago  a  competent  chemist  had  occasion  to  examine  several 
samples  of  what  purported  to  be  sulphide  of  antimony,  or  black 
antimony,  as  it  is  sometimes  called.  In  many  cases  it  was  adul- 
terated with  ground  coal  and  similar  matters,  to  the  extent  of  fifty 
percent  ,  and  quite  a  number  of  the  samples  did  not  contain  a 
particle  of  antimony!  Now,  sulphide  of  antimony  is  a  substance 
in  very  general  use.  and  it  is  easy  to  see  the  effects  of  such  adul- 
teration upon  the  results  obtained  by  the  manufacturer. 

Impurity  in  the  materials  used  may  arise  from  two  causes— the 
foreign  matters  with  which  many  natural  substances  are  mixed 
may  not  have  been  removed,  or  cheaper  materials  may  have  been 
actually  added.  Thus,  common  salt  cannot  be  obtained  in  a  pure 
state  naturally,  and  carbonate  of  soda  has  to  undergo  expensive 
and  tedious  processes  before  the  crude  sabs  are  rendered  pure. 
But  too  often  it  happens  that  the  dealer,  for  the  sake  of  a  little 


viii  INTKODUCTION. 

additional  profit,  actually  adds  some  cheap  material  to  the  article 
he  has  for  sale. 

Impurities  act  in  several  ways.  They  may  merely  lessen  the 
strength  of  the  article;  this  is  the  least  harmful  of  any,  though  it 
is  apt  to  throw  the  operator  out  in  his  proportions.  Thus,  sand 
in  sugar,  provided  the  sand  is  pure,  will  not  do  much  harm  in  tea 
or  coffee;  it  will  merely  sink  to  the  bottom  and  be  thrown  away. 
It  will,  however,  require  a  greater  proportional  quantity  of  the 
adulterated  article  to  produce  the  same  amount  of  sweetuess. 
But  if  such  adulterated  sugar  be  used  to  sweeten  puddings  or  cake, 
the  sand  will  be  swallowed  with  the  rest  of  the  food,  and  may 
cause  serious  injury. 

Sometimes  impurities  seriously  affect  the  keeping  qualities  of 
the  product.  This  is  particularly  the  case  when  such  impurities 
have  a  strong  affinity  for  moisture  and  cause  the  manufactured 
article  to  become  damp.  Many  salts  attract  moisture  from  the 
atmosphere,  some  to  such  an  extent  that  if  exposed  freely  in 
ordinary  dry  weather  they  will  attract  enough  to  form  a  perfect 
solution.  This  is  notably  the  case  with  salt  of  tartar  and  many 
chlorides.  Common  salt  containing  any  of  these  deliquescent 
salts  could  not  be  put  up  in  paper  or  cloth  packages;  it  would 
soon  become  wet,  while  perfectly  pure  salt  would  remain  dry,  and 
the  same  would  be  true  of  any  compound  of  which  such  impure 
salt  formed  a  constituent. 

2  Uiing  the  wrong  ingredient  is  frequently  a  cause  of  failure, 
and  for  this  the  published  recipes  are  often  to  blame.  Thus,  in 
one  much  vaunted  book  of  recipes  we  are  directed  to  use  nut  galls, 
wheu  ox  gall  is  evidently  the  article  required ;  white  vitriol  is 
described  by  another  as  sulphate  of  copper,  rendered  white  by 
desiccation,  whereas  white  vitriol  is  sulphate  of  zinc;  and  even  in 
the  English  translation  of  that  standard  work,  l,Wagner,s  Chemical 
Technology,"  the  leaves  of  the  rice  plant  are  namtd  as  a  food  for 
silk-worm9,  when  the  castor-oil  plant  (Ricinus  communis),  is  the 
one  that  is  meant. 

3.  Using  articles  of  an  improper  degree  of  strength  often 
causes  failure.  S  >metimes  the  difficulty  is  that  the  materials  are 
not  sufficiently  diluted;  sometimes  it  is  the  opposite.  Thus, 
glycerine,  used  as  a  toilet  preparation,  will  in  some  cases  produce 
great  discomfort  if  not  sufficiently  diluted.    Alcohol,  if  too  pure, 


INTRODUCTION.  ix 

will  not  answer  for  cements  into  the  composition  of  which  gelatine 
or  isinglass  enters.  On  the  other  hand,  un'ess  a'cohol  is  nearly 
free  from  water  it  will  not  make  a  good  varnish,  and  if  the  acid 
used  in  converting  paper  into  what  is  known  as  vegetahle  parch- 
ment be  not  strong  enough,  the  paper  will  be  destroyed  instead  of 
being  strengthened.  This  may  be  illustrated  in  a  very  striking 
and  curious  manner  by  sprinkling  the  paper  with  water ;  wherever 
it  has  been  moistened,  the  acid,  being  diluted  at  these  spots,  will 
make  holes,  while  the  parts  that  were  left  dry  will  be  converted 
into  a  hard,  tough,  parchment  like  fabric. 

4.  Failure  often  results  from  a  wrong  method  of  compounding 
materials  of  the  right  kind  and  of  excellent  qualities.  Thus,  in  a 
formula  now  before  us,  for  diamond  cement,  for  which  we  paid 
twenty  five  cents,  a  list  of  the  constituents  is  given,  and  the  vendor 
coolly  tells  us  to  "  Mix.''  They  won't  mix.  If  we  take  the  several 
ingredients  and  put  them  one  after  another  in  a  bottle  and  shake 
them  together,  the  result  will  certainly  not  be  diamond  cement. 

5.  The  mere  order  in  which  the  constituents  are  added  to  each 
other  is  often  of  vital  importance.  Consequently,  in  attempting  to 
follow  a  well-approved  formula,  do  not  try  to  change  this  order, 
unless  you  have  first  satisfied  yourself  that  the  new  method  is  an 
improvement. 

6.  The  temperature  at  which  the  ingredients  are  brought 
together  is  a  very  important  matter.  Thus,  it  would  be  difficult 
to  combine  resin  and  an  alkali  so  as  to  form  a  soap,  if  both  were 
at  the  ordinary  temperature  of  the  air.  At  the  boiling  point  they 
unite  easily  and  thoroughly. 

7.  In  many  cases  it  is  necessary  to  reduce  the  ingredients  first 
of  all  t#  a  state  of  very  fine  powder,  and  the  excellence  of  the 
result  will  depend  greatly  upon  the  thoroughness  with  which  the 
grinding  is  done.  This  is  especially  the  case  with  gunpowder 
and  several  kinds  of  fireworks.  The  ineredients,  if  mixed  together 
in  coarse  powder,  burn  in  slow,  sizzling  fashion,  whereas,  if 
properly  comminuted  and  combined,  they  burn  with  explosion,  or 
with  a  brilliant  and  intense  light,  as  the  case  may  be. 

8.  In  some  manufactures  failure  is  cau  ed  by  improper  local 
conditions.  Thus,  in  the  manufacture  of  alcohol,  beer,  etc.,  the 
character  of  the  water  supply  is  of  the  utmost  importance,  and  it 
is  believed  that  some  most  prosperous  concerns  owe  their  wonder* 


x  INTRODUCTION. 

ful  success  to  this  cause.  In  the  finer  departments  of  dyeing,  the 
same  thing  holds  true,  and  certain  cities  and  localities  have 
become  famous  for  the  excellence  of  their  products. 

Various  cases  of  this  kind  might  be  named,  all  depending 
upon  widely  different  causes.  Thus,  for  example,  the  Italian 
macaroni  has  always  maintained  its  reputation  for  excellence,  and 
especially  for  its  superiority  to  that  manufactured  in  England.  At 
first  it  was  thought  that  this  superiority  was  due  to  the  special 
skill  of  the  workmen  employed,  but  when  the  Italian  workmen 
and  their  utensils  were  transported  to  Great  Britain  they  suc- 
ceeded no  better  than  the  Eaglishmen.  It  was  then  found  that  in 
order  to  produce  macaroni  in  perfection  it  was  necessary  to  use 
Italian  wheat;  but,  of  course,  the  added  expense  of  importation, 
and  the  higher  cost  of  living  in  England,  rendered  futile  all  hope 
of  financial  success  in  such  an  enterprise.  I.  seems  to  us,  how- 
ever, that  it  is  possible  that  in  this  country  wheat  might  be  found 
which  for  the  manufacture  of  macaroni  would  prove  superior  even 
to  that  from  Italy. 

Another  article  of  manufacture  for  which  Italy  has  long  been 
pre  eminent  is  catgut,  as  used  for  fiddle  s'rings,  etc  These 
strings  are  made  from  the  entrails  of  sheep,  and  as  England  and 
Scotland  are  famous  countries  for  sheep,  it  was  supposed  that  no 
better  could  be  found  for  the  manufacture  of  this  article.  It  was 
soon  discovered,  however,  that  the  strings  made  from  the  entrails 
of  the  fat  and  young  sheep  of  England  were  far  inferior  to  those 
furnished  by  animals  which  were  lean  and  hardy,  from  having  to 
seek  their  pasture  on  steep  and  barren  hill  sides. 

Still  another  instance  of  the  influence  of  local  circumstances  on 
the  character  of  the  manufactured  article  is  to  be  found  in  the  case 
of  silk-worm  gut,  eo  much  used  by  anglers.  This  comes  almost 
entirely  from  Italy,  and  is  prepared  by  immersing  the  '' worms" 
in  vinegar,  pulling  them  apart  and  drying  the  silky  thread  which 
is  thus  produced.  Now  it  is  found  that  Italian  vinegar  gives 
results  that  are  far  superior  to  anything  that  can  be  elsewhere  pro- 
duced. This  may  arise  from  one  of  several  causes.  It  may  be  on 
account  of  the  strength  of  the  article  ;  or  it  may  be  caused  by  the 
presence  of  some  other  vegetable  acid,  such  as  the  tartaric,  which 
is  not  found  in  malt  or  other  vinegar  not  prepared  from  grapes  ; 
or  it  may  be  due  to  the  purity  of  the  Italian  vinegar  and  the 


INTRODUCTION.  xi 

absence  of  such  foreign  matter  as  sulphuric  acid,  pyroligneous 
acid,  and  other  things  known  to  exist  in  small  proportion  in  many 
samples  of  English  and  American  vinegar. 

Even  the  more  subtle  climatic  influences  of  heat,  light  and 
direct  sunshine  may  render  a  manufacture  successful  at  one  place 
and  a  failure  at  another.  The  following  illustration  of  this  truth 
is  related  by  the  celebrated  chemist,  Sir  Humphrey  Davy :  "A  man- 
ufacturer of  carmine,  who  was  aware  of  the  superiority  of  French 
color,  went  to  Lyons  for  the  purpose  of  improving  his  process,  and 
bargained  with  the  most  celebrated  manufacturer  in  that  capital 
for  the  acquisition  of  his  secret,  for  which  he  was  to  pay  a  thousand 
pounds.  He  was  shown  all  the  processes,  and  saw  a  beautiful 
color  produced,  yet  he  found  not  the  least  difference  between  the 
French  mode  of  fabrication  and  that  which  he  had  constantly 
adopted.  He  appealed  to  the  manufacturer,  and  insisted  that  he 
must  have  concealed  something.  The  manufacturer  assured  him 
that  he  had  not,  and  invited  him  to  see  the  process  a  second  time. 
He  minutely  examined  the  water  and  the  materials,  which  were 
the  same  as  his  own  ;  and,  very  much  surprised,  said,  '  I  have  lost 
my  labor  and  my  money,  for  the  air  of  England  does  not  permit 
us  to  make  good  carmine.'  'Stay,' says  the  Frenchman,  'do  not 
deceive  yourself :  what  kind  of  weather  is  it  now?'  'A  bright, 
sunny  day,' said  the  Englishman.  'And  such  are  the  days,' said 
the  Frenchman,  'on  which  I  make  my  color.  Were  I  to  attempt 
to  manufacture  it  on  a  dark  and  cloudy  day,  my  result  would  be 
the  same  as  yours.  Let  me  advise  you.  my  friend,  always  to  make 
carmine  on  bright,  sunny  days.'  'I  will,' says  the  Englishman, 
'  but  I  fear  I  shall  make  very  little  in  London."' 

In  regulating  the  quantity  of  any  compound  that  is  to  be  manu- 
factured at  one  time,  it  will  of  course  be  found  that  the  larger  this 
quantity  is,  the  less  is  the  proportional  expanse  of  manufacture. 
Great  care  must  however  be  taken  to  keep  the  proportions  correct, 
and  this  is  obviously  to  be  done  only  by  multiplying  or  dividing  the 
quantities  by  the  same  number;  addition  or  subtraction,  canuot  be 
permitted.  Thus,  if  the  formula  calls  for  8  parts  of  A,  3  of  B  and 
5  of  C,  we  must  not  add  or  subtract  any  given  quantity  from 
these  numbers,  or  the  proportions  will  be  chauged  If  we  wished 
to  get  a  less  quantity  than  8,  3  and  5  would  give,  and  if  we  sub- 
stracted  3  from  each  of  the  quantities,  we  would  get  5  parts  of  A, 


xii  INTRODUCTION. 

none  at  all  of  B,  and  2  part9  of  C,  making  7  parts  in  all.  If  we 
wished  about  this  amount,  we  could  get  it  by  dividing  all  the 
quantities  by  2;  we  would  then  have  4  parts  of  A,  1^  of  B,  and 
2£  of  C,  making  8  parts  in  all.  In  this  case  the  proportions  would 
remain  unaltered. 

The  manner  in  which  the  articles  are  put  up  is  important  from 
several  points  of  view.  In  the  first  place,  the  neatness  and  elegant 
appearance  of  any  article  always  has  considerable  influence  on  its 
sale.  This  is  seen  most  clearly  perhaps  in  the  case  of  perfumes, 
where  the  style  of  label  and  the  general  character  of  the  "get  up'* 
will  almost  enable  a  good  judge  to  determine  the  quality  of  the 
article.  A  label  that  is  plain  simply  from  its  cheapness,  or  one 
that  is  overloaded  with  tawdry  floral  fl  igree-work,  is  always 
indicative  of  something  cheap.  On  the  other  hand,  an  artistic  but 
moderately  plain  label  has  a  contrary  effect  upon  the  better  class 
of  purchasers ;  and  as  the  tastes  of  the  people  are  getting  educated 
to  this,  the  manufacturer  must  study  this  aspect  of  his  subject  if 
he  would  command  success.  At  the  same  time,  it  is  well  to  bear 
in  mind  that  a  label  which  would  prove  attractive  to  educated 
persons  might  not  please  the  untutored  tastes  of  freshly  imported 
factory  operatives,  and  if  the  article  is  meant  for  them,  their 
"fancy"  must  be  suited.  The  American  girls  that  work  in  fac- 
tories and  similar  positions  are  in  general  more  cultivated,  and 
this  should  not  be  forgotten. 

Labels  for  many  fancy  articles,  such  as  perfumes,  etc  ,  may  be 
obtained  cheaply  from  men  who  make  a  business  of  manufacturing 
these  things,  and  who  are  consequently  enabled  to  offer  at  a  cheap 
rate,  designs  that  to  the  single  small  manufacturer  would  be  so 
expensive  as  to  be  prohibitory.  Indeed,  label  printing  has  now 
become  a  separate  business,  and  if  a  label  for  even  a  razor-paste 
is  wanted,  it  is  better  to  go  to  these  meu  than  to  get  the  work 
done  in  an  ordinary  job  printing  office.  Not  only  do  they  do  the 
work  more  cheaply,  from  the  fact  that  they  have  special  tools  and 
facilities,  but  the  labels  have  a  certain  professional  air  which 
exerts  a  powerful,  though  not  easily  described  influence  upon  the 
purchaser. 

The  character  of  the  vessel  or  case  in  which  the  articles  are  put 
up  also  deserves  careful  study,  and  will  depend  greatly  upon  the 
character  of  the  goods.     Liquids  are,  of  course,  put  up  in  bottles, 


INTRODUCTION.  xiii 

whicn  may  be  of  glass,  earthenware,  tin,  or  piper.  The  latter,  if 
properly  prepared,  so  &s  to  be  waterproof,  make9  a  cheap  and 
excellent  bottle.  We  have  seen  ink  put  up  in  such  bottles  and 
kept  for  years  It  seems  to  us,  however,  that  wilh  a  proper  sys- 
tem of  moulds  and  stamping  tools,  bottles  might  be  made  of  cUy 
very  cheaply  and  neatly.  Such  bottles,  if  well  hurned  and  glazed, 
are  quite  as  good  as  glass,  and  as  they  are  far  less  liable  to  break- 
age, they  deserve  in  many  cases  to  have  the  preference.  The  old 
liquid  blacking  was  put  up  in  very  serviceable,  wide  mouthed 
earthenware  bottles. 

The  stopper  is  another  important  feature  of  such  bottles.  Of 
course,  nothing  equals  a  goad  glass  stopper,  well  ground,  but  it 
is  expensive.  Corks  are  to  be  preferred,  and  if  soft,  and  thor- 
oughly well  saturated  with  paraffiae,  they  will  close  any  bottle  very 
tightly,  and  will  resist  the  action  of  corrosive  liquids.  Stoppers 
may  also  be  made  of  any  soft  elastic  wood.  Tney  are  cheaply 
turned  by  boys,  and  may  be  made  quite  ornamental.  The  part 
which  acts  as  a  stopper  should  be  well  soaked  in  melted  paraffiae. 

It  is  a  great  advantage  to  corks  to  have  them  topped  with 
wooden  discs,  firmly  glued  in  place  with  waterproof  glue  It  adds 
not  only  to  their  appearance,  but  to  their  durability,  and  it  obviates 
the  necessity  for  a  corkscrew. 

It  has  of  late  become  quite  common  for  manufacturers  to  put 
up  a  small  corkscrew  with  each  corked  bottle  (ink,  patent  medi- 
cine, etc. )  This  is  a  great  convenience;  and  as  such  corkscrews 
are  manufactured  in  quantity  at  a  very  cheap  rate,  such  liberality 
pays. 

Paraffiae  paper,  or  waxed  paper,  as  it  is  often  called,  enables 
us  to  form  very  neat  and  serviceable  packages.  This  material  is 
of  special  advantage  where  we  have  to  deal  with  deliquescent 
powders,  and  other  matters  that  are  liable  to  be  affected  by  the 
atmosphere.  A  good,  heavy  paraffiae  paper,  managed  with  care, 
may  be  made  to  form  a  receptacle  almost  as  tfficient  as  a  glass 
bottle. 

While  the  financial  success  of  any  manufacturing  undertaking 
does  not  depend  altogether  upon  the  real  excellence  of  the  article 
offered  for  sale,  it  is  unquestionable  that  q  lality  has  a  very  im- 
portant iufluence  in  this  direction  in  regard  to  everything,  except, 
perhaps,   patent  medicines.     So  far  as  these  are  concerned,  the 


xiv  INTRODUCTION. 

actual  quality  of  the  medicines  seems  to  have  very  little  influence 
upon  the  extent  of  the  sales.  Advertising,  and  other  methods  of 
prest  nting  them  to  the  public,  are  the  great  agents  in  creating  a 
demand  for  such  goods. 

It  is  therefore  imperative  that  he  who  undertakes  the  manu- 
facture of  any  article  should  make  a -careful  study  of  everything 
onnected  with  it, — the  best  methods  of  preparing  it,  the  action 
of  the  ingredients  one  upon  the  other,  the  simplest  and  best 
methods  of  applying  it,  etc.,  etc.  He  who  relies  upon  a  recipe 
alone  will  fail,  where  the  thorough  and  careful  worker  will  suc- 
ceed most  satisfactorily. 

The  name  that  is  selected  for  any  article  will  frequently  have 
an  important  influence  on  the  extent  of  its  sale,  and  it  is  well  for 
the  manufacturer  to  study  this  point  with  great  care.  High- 
sounding  names  do  not  always  prove  very  attractive. 

While  it  is  a  fact  that  some  very  large  manufacturing  concerns 
have  risen  from  such  small  beginnings  as  the  unaided  efforts  of 
one  man,  who  at  first  did  all  the  work  of  preparing,  packing, 
labelling,  selling  and  collecting,  yet  it  is  equally  true  that  where 
one  has  succeeded  many  hundreds  have  failed.  Moreover,  that 
which  succeeded  a  few  years  ago  will  not  succeed  now;  the  pro- 
gress of  science  and  the  arts  has  left  it  behind,  and  the  manufac- 
turer on  a  small  scale  stands  no  chance  whatever.  A  striking 
instance  of  this  is  seen  in  the  manufacture  of  the  matches  so  com- 
monly used  for  obtaining  a  light.  F.fiy  years  ago  chemists  manu- 
factured their  matches  on  a  small  scale,  and  charged  and  obtained 
enormous  prices.  Of  course,  under  such  circumstances  they  made 
a  profit.  Then  single  families  devoted  themselves  to  fie  manu- 
facture; the  elder  members  performed  the  more  difficult  opera- 
tions, while  even  the  younger  children  found  profitable  employ- 
ment in  making  cheap  paper  boxes  to  hold  the  finished  products. 
Now,  however,  the  business  has  passed  into  the  hands  of  a  few 
manufacturers,  whose  productions  are  of  enormous  value;  and  it 
is  safe  to  say  that  these  manufacturers  can  furnish  the  finished 
article  for  iess  than  the  small  manufacturer  could  buy  the  raw 
material ! 

Before  entering  upon  the  manufacture  and  sale  of  any  article, 
a  careful  estimate  should  be  made  of  the  amount  of  capital 
required,  and  of  the  means  of  procuring  it.    It  matters  not  whether 


INTRODUCTION.  iv 

this  amount  is  one  dollar  or  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  ;  if  the 
amount  on  hand  is  not  equal  to  that  which  is  required,  the  business 
will  be  up-hill  work.  It  is  said  that  "a  stern  chase  is  a  long 
chase,"  and  when  the  capital  has  to  be  made  out  of  the  business 
the  chase  will  prove  a  long  one  indeed.  Therefore,  since  the 
amount  of  capital  required  for  various  undertakings  differs  very 
materially,  see  that  the  enterprise  which  Is  chosen  Is  one  that  does 
not  make  too  heavy  demands  upon  the  amount  at  command.  In 
general  it  will  be  found  that  where  the  competition  is  most 
severe  the  capital  Deeded  will  be  greatest.  Thus,  to  manufacture 
perfumery  will  need  more  than  would  be  required  in  the  manu- 
facture of  a  grease  extractor  ;  and  to  establish  an  ink  factory  will 
take  more  than  would  be  needed  for  the  manufacture  of  rat 
poison. 

•In  estimating  the  cost  of  any  preparation,  spec'al  attention 
must  be  paid  to  the  varying  prices  of  the  ingredients  when  these 
are  bought  under  different  conditions  Let  us  take,  for  example, 
a  very  common  article— ink.  One  of  the  clref  ingredients  used  in 
the  manufacture  of  ordinary  black  ink  is  sulphate  of  iron.  If  we 
buy  an  ounce  of  this  article  at  an  ordinary  drug  store,  the  charge 
will  probably  be  five  or  ten  cents.  If  we  buy  a  few  pounds  from 
any  large  establishment  the  price  will  probably  be  six  cents  per 
pound.  If  we  procure  a  hundred  pounds  from  a  wholesale  house 
the  charge  per  pound  will  probably  be  less  than  half  this,  and  if 
we  procure  it  from  the  manufacturer  it  will  be  a  great  deal  lower 
still.  On  even  moderately  large  quantities  of  product  this  differ 
ence  iu  price  of  the  articles  used  is  sufficient  to  seriously  affect  the 
income  of  the  manufacturer. 

As  a  general  rule  it  will  be  found  that  it  is  of  little  use  to  try 
and  compete  with  established  manufacturers  unless  we  adopt  some 
new  methods  of  sale,  some  specially  attractive  manner  of  putting 
up  the  articles,  or  some  noticeable  improvement  in  the  articles 
themselves.  That  th's  might  be  done  in  many  cases,  however,  is 
beyond  a  doubt  Let  us  take  even  the  well-worn  subject  of  ink  — 
an  article  which  is  manufactured  on  a  very  large  scale  by  several 
establishments  possessing  abundant  capital,  and  fitted  up  with  all 
the  appliances  necessary  to  control  the  market.  To  such  an  extent 
does  this  apply  to  this  article,  that  it  is  sold  to  the  trade  at  rates 
with  which  the  small  producer  cannot  possibly  compete,  and  yet 


xvi  INTRODUCTION. 

we  have  known  of  dozens  of  persons  who  have  attempted  to  make 
a  living  by  manufacturing  and  selling  ink  on  a  small  scale.  Tbey 
managed  to  secure  a  good  recipe;  by  care  and  skill  they  produced 
a  really  good  article  ;  it  was  neatly  put  up,  and  success  seemed 
almost  assured.  But  somehow  or  other  the  enterprise  always 
failed  And  yet  it  is  possible  that  by  striking  out  in  some  new 
direction,  success  might  be  assured.-  The  novelty  nvght  take  one 
of  several  phases.  Tbus,  it  might  be  in  price.  At  present,  so  far 
as  we  can  learn  by  irquiry  in  several  stores,  the  cheapest  bottle  of 
ink  is  five  cents.  Now  these  small  bottles  are  very  frequently 
bought  by  persons  who  wish  to  write  only  one  or  two  letters  ;  they 
do  not  care  to  keep  a  supply  on  hand,  and  if  they  were  offered  a 
three-cent  bottle  of  really  fair  quality,  they  would  probably  take 
it.  The  price  should  be  printed  clearly  on  the  label,  the  quality 
of  the  ink  guaranteed,  and  the  name  of  the  manufacturer  should 
be  distinct.  The  bottles  might  be  quite  small,  as  this  would  be 
no  objection,  so  far  as  the  persons  we  have  described  are  con- 
cerned, and  to  many  it  would  be  an  attraction.  Every  school-girl 
would  exclaim,  "Oh.  how  cunning!"  and  the  price  being  only 
three  cents,  many  would  buy  them  out  of  curiosity. 

The  mails  now  offer  great  facilities  for  the  sale  of  small  articles, 
and  quite  a  business  is  carried  on  by  many  in  this  way.  Unfor- 
tunately, however,  the  mails  have  been  abused  by  many  who  have 
used  them  for  fraudulent  purposes,  and  the  public  have  become 
wary,  so  that  it  requires  some  time  and  considerable  advertising, 
as  well  as  a  very  attractive  subject,  to  establish  a  paying  business 
in  this  way.  But  there  are  many  subjects  which  are  so  thoroughly 
adapted  to  the  mails— that  is  to  say,  those  who  need  them  are  so 
widely  scattered,  and  the  articles  th  mselves  are  so  easily  and  so 
safely  transmitted,  that  a  business  of  this  kind  offers  great  tempta- 
tions Of  course,  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  no  liquids  or  glass 
bottles  can  be  sent  by  mail  without  subjecting  the  sender  to  heavy 
penalties.  Neither  can  any  compound  which  is  liable  to  injure 
letters,  books  or  papers  be  so  sent.  But  there  are  numerous  pre- 
parations which  may  be  sent  cheaply  and  with  perfect  safety,  and 
the  firld  19  not  only  inviting,  but  lucrative.  There  are  houses  in 
N»w  York  that  have  grown  up  from  small  beginnings  uutil  their 
mail  business  has  reached  thousands  of  d  'liars  per  day. 

A  very  effectual  way  of  increasing  the  sale  of  any  product,  and 


INTRODUCTION.  xvii 

indeed  of  creating  a  sale  where  none  previously  existed,  consists 
in  furnishing  full  and  accurate  information  in  regard  to  its  quali- 
ties and  the  best  methods  of  u^ing  it.  This  may  often  be  done 
by  means  of  neat  and  compact  circulars,  which  should  not  be  in 
the  shape  of  what  are  known  as  "  broadsides"  or  leaflets,  for  these 
soon  find  their  way  into  the  waste-basket,  but  in  small  books  or 
pamphlets  of  four  or  more  pages  Such  pamphlets,  if  got  up 
without  much  display,  and  without  a  great  deal  of  "blowing," 
may  be  made  to  convey  really  useful  information,  and  will  be 
accepted  as  such,  and  preserved  where  a  more  obtrusively  adver- 
tising sheet  would  be  thrown  aside.  There  are  many  subjects 
which  might  be  thus  treated  for  advertising  purposes,  and  yet 
with  the  pill  so  gilt  or  sugar  coated  that  the  real  intent  of  the 
publisher  would  be  forgotten.  Let  us  take  as  an  example  the 
case  of  a  person  who  sets  out  to  make  and  sell  poison  for  the 
destruction  of  vermin— rats,  mice.  etc.  There  are  several  such 
poisons  in  the  market,  and  by  giving  to  one  of  them  a  new  name,  and 
telling  innumerable  falsehoods  about  it,  report  Bays  that  a  small  for- 
tune has  been  made.  VVc  refer,  of  course,  to  "Hough  ou  Rats," 
which  is  nothing  more  or  less  than  common  white  arsenic  of  very 
impure  quality,  although  it  is  frequently  asserted  that  it  does  not 
contain  any  arsenic  at  all.  But  suppose  some  person  whose  tastes 
and  opportunities  led  him  in  that  direction,  should  prepare  a  good 
article  of  phosphorous  paste,  put  it,  up  in  neat  and  attractive  form, 
and  offer  it  for  sale  And  suppose  he  should  at  the  same  time 
print  and  distribute  a  neat  little  tract  on  the  destruction  of  vermin, 
describing  their  habits,  and  giving  a  few  anecdotes  of  their  cun- 
ning aud  sagacity,  ending  with  a  short  description  of  the  different 
poisons  in  u«ie — arsenic,  strychnine,  caibonate  of  baryta,  etc, — 
detailing  their  qualities,  stating  the  orj  -ctions  to  them,  and  linally 
presenting  phosphorus  as  the  most  eligible,  aud  giving  the  reasons 
therefor  Can  any  one  believe  that  such  a  tract  if  well  prepared 
and  wide'y  distributed,  would  not  create  a  market  for  the  new 
poison?  or  rather  we  should  say,  perhaps,  for  the  old  poison  in 
its  new  shape  ? 

Other  subjects  might  be  handled  in  a  similar  manner,  and  with 
equally  good  prospects  of  satisfactory  results  Thus,  a  furniture 
polisher  or  renovator  might  be  made  known  through  the  medium 
of  a  small  tract  upon  the  care  and  repair  of  furniture.     A  razor- 


xviii  INTRODUCTION. 

paste  might  be  heralded  by  a  page  or  two  on  bow  to  keep  a  razor 
in  order,  and  how  to  shave  ;  a  scouring  or  cleansing  fluid,  by  one 
on  the  care  and  cleaning  of  garments  ;  and  so  on  to  the  end  of  the 
chapter. 

la  these  days  of  rigid  economy  the  most  earnest  efforts  are 
made  to  utilize  every  part  of  what  would  otherwise  be  waste,  and 
the  success  that  has  been  attained  in  some  directions  has  been 
indeed  wonderful.  A  few  instances  will  impress  this  upon  our 
readers  more  fully  than  any  amount  of  argument. 

A  few  years  ago,  comparatively,  the  waste  matters,  tar,  etc., 
from  our  gas  factories,  were  allowed  to  flow  away  and  be  wasted, 
or  even  to  inflict  positive  injury  by  polluting  our  streams,  etc. 
Now  all  this  matter  is  saved,  and  the  products  obtained  from  it 
are  of  the  utmost  value.  The  beautiful  dyes  that  render  the  pro- 
ducts of  our  looms  so  gorgeous;  the  cement  which  protects  our 
roofs  from  the  action  of  the  rain;  the  flavoring  extracts  with 
which  our  soda-water,  puddings,  blanc  mange,  etc  ,  are  rendered 
palatable,  and  numerous  other  important  products,  are  obtaiaed 
from  these  waste  matters,  and  it  is  even  proposed  to  extend  their 
value  by  extracting  from  them  the  material  necessary  for  sweeten- 
ing our  tea  and  coffee. 

The  entrails  of  slaughtered  animals  were  at  one  time  a  mere 
source  of  annoyance,  which  proved  a  nuisance  and  threatened 
pestilence.  These  are  now  utilized  for  the  purpose  of  making  the 
best  and  strongest  kind  of  cords. 

Tin  scraps  are  even  now  thrown  in  vast  quantities  into  pits 
and  waste  places,  and  frequently  threaten  to  become  a  nuisance. 
In  some  cases  they  have  been  converted  into  products  of  great 
value,  and  the  field  is  yet  open  for  further  developments  in  this 
direction. 

These  are  but  a  few  instances  out  of  many.  There  is  scarcely 
any  field  more  promising  than  the  utilization  of  waste  material, 
but  it  will  require  careful  study,  cautious  experiment,  and  con- 
siderable time,  labor  and  money  to  make  them  productive. 

It  may  be  set  down  as  one  of  the  few  axioms  that  hold  good  in 
business  that,  with  the  exseption  of  such  staple  commodities  as 
wheat,  iron,  cloth,  etc  ,  for  which  there  is  a  known  market  and  a 
fixed  price,  the  sales,  and  consequently  the  financial  success  of  the 
manufacturer  or  dealer,  will  depend  upon  the  amount  and  kind  of 


INTRODUCTION.  xix 

advartiaing  that  be  gives  to  his  business.  Of  all  the  great  fortunes 
that  have  been  made,  outside  of  Wall  street  and  of  real  estatei 
nine-tenths  owe  their  existence  to  judicious  and  enterprising  adver- 
tising. At  the  same  time  it  must  be  acknowledged  that  quite  as 
much  money  bus  been  wasted  in  useless  advertising  as  ever  was 
made  by  tbose  who  advertised  wisely  and  well,  aud  we  know  of 
no  way  in  wnich  money  may  be  squandered  more  easily  than  by 
advertising  in  the  wrong  way  and  in  the  wrong  medium. 

It  is  sometimes  said  that  advertising  is  like  learning — a  little 
being  a  dangerous  thing.  This  is  not  true,  at  least  so  far  as  our 
experience  goes.  No  matter  how  small  the  extent  of  the  adver- 
tising, provided  other  conditions  are  right,  some  good  results  will 
follow;  but  all  experience  shows  that  if  we  double  our  advertising 
we  will  nearly  quadruple  the  results — always  provided,  of  course, 
that  we  advertise  something  that  is  wanted,  and  that  we  advertise 
it  wisely.  Hence  the  secret  of  the  success  of  those  who  spend 
hundreds  of  thousands  uf  dollars  in  advertisements  ;  the  very  air 
seems  to  be  full  of  the  subject.  Wherever  we  turn,  we  are  con- 
fronted with  a  notice  of  their  goods,  until  their  names  and  the 
names  of  their  manufactures  become  so  associated  with  the  sub- 
ject that,  whenever  we  think  of  anything  in  that  line,  we  think 
of  them.  So  it  was  with  Spalding's  glue ;  this  glue,  in  its  day, 
was  so  extensively  advertised,  that  the  very  thought  of  glue 
brought  Spalding's  glue  to  mind.  Such  advertising  is  sure  to 
succeed,  but  it  requires  the  command  of  enormous  capital. 

Advertising  is  an  art  which  requires  much  study  to  attain 
success,  though  it  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  lay  down  any  general 
rules  for  the  guidance  of  the  advertiser.  One  or  two  points,  how- 
ever, may  be  noted  as  importaut. 

Where  the  article  is  in  general  demand,  circulation  is  the  great 
point  to  be  looked  for  in  the  advertising  mediuna.  It  is  a  well- 
known  fact  that  the  circulation  of  many  journals  is  greatly  ovei- 
stated,  and  it  re  quires  considerable  acumen  and  good  judgment  on 
thepaitof  the  advertiser  to  make  a  judicious  selection  in  this 
respect. 

The  character  of  the  circulation  cannot  be  safely  neglected, 
and  this  is  particularly  the  case  in  regard  to  advertisements  which 
appeal  to  particular  classes.  Thus  an  article,  specially  used  by 
physicians,  if  advertised  in  one  of  the  New  York   dailies,  whose 


xx  INTRODUCTION. 

circulation  mounts  into  the  hundreds  of  thousands,  might  not  be 
as  well  presented  as  if  it  were  advertised  in  a  medical  journal  of 
as  many  hundred?.  If  the  article  is  intended  for  the  use  of  people 
of  means  and  education,  it  is  useless  to  advertise  it  in  the  very 
cheap  and  sensational  daily  and  weekly  journals.  The  magazines 
and  the  more  respectable  class  of  dailies  and  weeklies  will  be  found 
to  be  the  best  medium. 

Circulars  are  an  efficient  means  of  advertising,  provided  they 
are  properly  distributed.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind,  however,  that 
if  distributed  by  mail,  the  postage  alone  amounts  to  a  good  deal 
($10  per  thousand)  and  it  is  very  difficult  to  make  such  a  selection 
of  addresses  as  will  yield  anything  like  satisfactory  results.  It  is 
true  that  in  a  circular  we  can  say  a  great  deal  more  than  can  be 
said  in  au  advertisement,  uuless  we  incur  enormous  expense  for 
the  latter.  The  best  way  probably  is  to  combine  both  the  journal- 
istic and  circular  methods,  and  this  can  be  done  by  means  of  a 
small  but  attractive  advertisement  offering  a  descriptive  circular. 
If  the  advertisement  describes  the  circular  as  containing  special 
and  valuable  information,  and  states  that  it  is  sent  free,  large  num- 
bers of  people  will  apply  for  it,  and  then  the  advertiser  obtains 
at  once  a  list  of  persons  specially  interested  in  the  subject  on 
hand. 

As  we  have  already  stated,  however,  the  art  of  advertising  is 
one  that  will  demand  much  study,  in  order  to  make  it  successful ; 
and  while  it  is  impossible  to  lay  down  any  rules  for  guidance, 
there  are  four  causes  of  failure  which,  may  be  mentioned  as  sub- 
jects of  avoidance.     These  are  : 

1.  Advertising  in  j  >urnals.  of  which  the  rates  are  greatly  too 
high  in  proportion  to  their  circulation. 

2  Advertising  in  journals  that  do  not  reach  the  right  parties. 

3  Inserting  advertisement  which  do  not  attract  and  hold  the 
attention  of  possible  customers. 

4  Advertising  articles  which,  from  their  general  character  or 
inferior  quality,  are  not  wanted. 

Advertising  rray  be  carried  on  with  one  or  both  of  two  distinct 
objects  in  view.  We  may  either  seek  to  reach  the  customer 
directly,  or  we  may  try  to  induce  him  to  ask  for  our  goods  at  the 
store  in  which  he  usually  trades.  The  latter  is  the  most 
effective  plan  in  building  up  a  large  trade,  and  the  most  ingenious 


INTRODUCTION.  xxi 

dev;ce9  have  been  adopted  by  some  famous  houses  for  the  pur- 
pose of  carrying  it  out  It  is  related  of  the  celebrated  house  of 
Day  &  Mirtin,  that  they  secured  a  wonderful  demand  for  their 
blacking  by  the  following  device  :  They  hired  several  good-look- 
ing young  men,  and  dressing  each  one  up  in  a  different  livery, 
sent  them  out  amongst  the  tradespeople  of  London  One  of  them 
would  enter  a  store  or  shop,  a3  it  is  called  in  England,  and  ask 
for  a  package  of  Day  &  Martin's  blacking.  If  the  proprietor  had 
it  on  hand,  the  blacking  was  purrhased  and  carried  off.  with  a 
few  strong  words  in  its  commendation.  The  shopkeeper  was  sure 
to  replenish  his  stock  a9  soon  as  it  got  low.  If  he  did  not  have 
it,  he  would  be  sure  to  recommend  something  which  he  claimed 
to  be  equally  good,  if  not  better.  But  it  was  of  no  use — "  His 
Lordship,"  the  liveried  footman's  master,  would  not  allow  the  use 
of  aoy  blacking  but  Day  &  Martin's.  In  an  hour  or  two  another 
liveried  footman  came  in  and  repeated  the  same  story,  and  after 
three  or  four  bad  thus  called,  the  shopkeeper  would  be  sure  to  lay 
in  a  supply.  Having  it  on  band,  he  would  be  as  sure  to  try  and 
sell  it,  and  thus  it  is  said  that  an  enormous  demand  was  created 
for  this  article. 

Those  who  seek  to  reach  customers  directly  must  either  com- 
mand a  local  trade  or  they  must  deal  by  mail  or  express.  It  often 
happens  that  the  neighbors  of  the  manufacturer  are  his  first  and 
be9t  customers;  from  these  reputation,  with  its  consequent  sales, 
spreads  to  distaut  parts,  and  in  time  the  business  grows  to  huge 
proportions.  A  business  built  up  in  this  way  is  fr«  quently  of  slow 
but  very  enduring  growth,  and  such  a  mode  of  increase  is  generally 
a  sure  sign  of  the  excellence  of  the  article  manufactured. 

Where  customers  are  to  be  secured  by  mail  or  express,  the  goods 
must  be  compaci,  and  easily  and  fafely  packed,  so  as  to  be  readily 
and  cheaply  transported  without  risk  of  injury  to  themselves  or  of 
damage  to  other  goods  which  may  be  carried  with  them  at  the  same 
time.  And  this  feature  will  frequently  decide  the  nature  of  the 
trade  upon  which  the  manufactu<er  may  be  inclined  to  enter,  and 
the  character  of  the  advertising  in  which  he  may  invest. 

To  explain  our  meaning  further,  let  us  take  the  subject  of  ink. 
If  put  up  in  glass  bottles,  it  would  be  impossible  to  command  more 
than  the  most  limited  trade  by  attempting  to  reach  consumers 
directly.     The  goods  must,  in  this  case,  be  sold  to  retailers,  who 


xiii  INTRODUCTION. 

will  find  the  individual  customers  and  induce  them  to  buy.  But 
if  a  portable  article  of  really  good  quality  were  offered,  it  might  be 
sold  freely  through  the  mails  :  an^  if  jt  presented  any  special 
novel'}',  thousands  of  orders  might  be  obtained,  so  that  quite  an 
extensive  mail  business  might  be  transacted  with  all  parts  of  the 
country.  To  complete  the  outfit,  a  good  article  of  steel  pen,  with 
a  neat  little  holder,  might  accompany  it,  and  thus  a  traveller's 
outfit  might  be  offered  under  very  attractive  conditions  For  such 
a  purpose,  the  best  ink  would  probably  be  that  suggested  by 
Bottger,  which  consists  of  paper  saturated  with  one  of  the  aniline 
colors. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  in  describing  the  various  possible 
enterprises  which  have  been  mentioned  throughout  this  introduc- 
tion, we  have  not  intended  to  suggest  the  actual  adoption  of  the 
business  to  which  tbey  might  give  rise.  They  have  been  selected 
merely  as  illustrations  of  general  principles. 

No  man  need  attempt  to  establish  a  business  of  the  kind  that 
we  have  indicated  unless  he  can  bring  to  his  aid  a  certain  amount 
of  originality  and  a  very  thorough  knowledge  of  the  special  sut  j  -ct 
in  hand.  This  knowledge  should  be  based  on  something  more 
than  the  mere  reading  of  recipe  books ;  the  general  principles 
involved  must  be  thoroughly  mastered,  and  then  such  special 
processes  selected  as  will  be  mtst  likely  to  enable  the  manufac- 
turer to  meet  the  wants  of  those  whose  custom  he  desires. 


TRADE     SECRETS:" 

A  COLLECTION  OF 

RECIPES,    PROCESSES    AND    FORMULAE. 


Amandine. 

This  ia  a  favorite  preparation,  used  to  whiten  and  soften  the 
akin,  and  also  to  prevent  its  chapping  Tn  use,  a  portion  of  the 
compound,  about  half  the  size  of  a  small  filbert,  is  rubbed  with  a 
few  drops  of  warm  water,  and  the  resulting  rich  white  lather 
applied  to  the  bands,  arms  face  and  neck  In  a  short  time,  and 
whilst  the  water  on  it  is  still  milky,  the  skin  is  gently  wiped  with  a 
soft  napkin. 

The  following  is  the  method  of  preparing  a  superior  article  : 
Take  fine  almond  oil,  7  lbs  ;  simple  syrup.  4  oz  ;  white  soft  soap, 
or  saponaceous  cream,  i  e.,  crone  d'Aroande,  1  oz  ;  otto  of 
almonds.  1  oz  •  otto  of  bergamnt,  1  oz  ;  otto  of  cloves,  4-  <  z.  Rub 
the  syrup  with  the  soft  soap  until  the  mixture  is  homogeneous, 
then  rub  in  the  oil  by  degrees ;  the  perfume  having  been  pre- 
viously mixed  with  the  oil. 

In  the  manufacture  of  amandine  the  difficulty  is  to  get  in  the 
quantity  of  oil  indicated,  without  which  it  does  not  assume  that 
transparent  jelly  appearauce  which  good  amandine  should  have. 
To  attain  this  end,  the  oil  is  put  into  ''  a  runner,"  that  is,  a  tin  or 
glass  vessel,  at.  the  bottom  of  which  is  a  small  faucet,  spigot,  or 
tap.  The  oil  being  put  into  this  vessel  is  allowed  to  run  slowly 
into  the  mortar  in  which  the  amandine  i9  being  made,  just  as  fast 
as  the  maker  finds  that  he  can  incorporate  it  with  the  pa9te  of  soap 
and  s\rup;  and  so  long  as  this  takes  place,  the  result  will  always 
have  a  jelly  texture  to  the  hand  If,  however,  the  oil  be  put  into 
the  mortar  quicker  than  the  workman  can  blend  it  with  the  paste, 
then  the  paste  becomes  "  oiled,"  and  may  be  considered  as  "done 
for,''  unless,  indeed,  the  whole  process  be  gone  through  again, 
starting  off  with  fresh  svrup  and  soap,  using  up  the  greasy  mass 
as  if  it  were  pure  oil  This  liability  to  '•  go  off"  increases  as  the 
amandine  nears  the  finish  ;  hence  extra  caution  and  plenty  of 
"elbow  grease  "  must  be  used  during  the  addition  of  the  last  two 
pounds  of  oil.  If  the  oil  bs  not,  perfectly  fresh,  or  if  the  tempera- 
ture of  the  atmosphere   be  above  the  average  of  summer  heat,  it 


24  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

will  be  almost  impossible  to  get  the  whole  of  the  oil  given  in  the 
formula  into  combination;  when  the  mass  becomes  bright  and  of 
a  crystalline  lustre,  it  will  be  well  to  stop  the  further  addition  of 
oil  to  it. 

This  and  similar  compounds  should  be  potted  as  quickly  as 
made,  and  the  lids  of  the  pots  banded  either  with  strips  of  tin- 
foil or  paper,  to  exclude  air  When  the  amandine  is  filled  into  the 
jirs.  the  top  or  face  of  it  is  marked  or  ornamented  wiih  a  tool 
made  to  the  size  of  half  the  diameter  of  the  interior  of  the  jar,  in 
a  similar  way  to  a  saw  ■  a  piece  of  lead  or  tortoise-shell,  beiDg  ser- 
rated with  an  angular  file,  or  piece  of  an  old  saw,  will  do  very 
well;  place  the  marker  on  the  amandine,  and  turn  the  jar  gently 
round. 

Aromatic  Vinegar, 

This  is  a  compound  of  strong  acetic  acid,  with  certain  power- 
ful essential  oils,  or  aromatic  herbs  It  has  a'ways  been  held  in 
very  high  repute  as  a  disinfec'ant,  and  as  a  prophylactic  (pre- 
ventive) in  contagious  fevers  It  is  sometimes  known  as  Thieves'1 
Vinegar,  for  the  curious  origin  of  which  name  see  the  close  of  this 
art  cie  There  are  several  formulae  the  following  being  most  in 
repute-.  — Edinburgh  Pharmacopeia:  Concentrated  acetic  acid,  1^ 
pints;  rosemary  and  tDyme,  dried,  of  each,  1  oz  ;  lavender,  also 
dried,  £  <  z. ;  cloves,  bruised,  j  drachm.  Macerate  for  seven  days, 
strain,  express  strongly,  and  rilter  the  liquor. 

Henry's  aromatic  vinegar  is  prepared  by  dissolving  oils  of 
cloves,  lavender,  rosemary,  and  the  like,  in  concentrated  acetic 
acid.  Camphorated  acetic  acid  is  sometimes  substituted  for  aio- 
matic  vinegar  The  formula  for  this  preparation  is  as  follows: 
"Take  of  acetic  acid,  G  fluid  ounces;  camphor,  |  an  ounce; 
alcohol,  a  sufficient  quantity.  Reduce  the  camphor  to  powder  by 
means  of  the  alcohol,  then  add  the  acid  and  dissolve."  The 
editors  of  the  'United  States  Dispensatory"  say  :  "  In  the  present 
state  of  knowledge,  it  is  hardly  necessary  to  observe  that  ueither 
the  original  nostrum  nor  its  substitute  has  any  other  power  of  pro- 
tecting the  system  against  disease,  than  such  as  may  depend  on 
iis  slightly  stimulant  properties,  and  its  influence  over  the  ima  gi- 
nation  "  As  knowledge  has  advanced,  however,  we  have  learned 
that  m»ny  of  the  essential  oils  have  a  very  powerful  effect,  upon 
those  gi-rms.  etc  ,  upon  which  contagion,  or  rather  infection,  is 
supposed  to  depend,  so  that  the  thieves  may  not  have  been  so  far 
wrong  after  all 

Thibvbs'  Vinbgar. — This  compound  was  so  called  because 
four  thievt-s  confessed  that  during  the  plague  at  Marseilles,  they 
p'undered  the  dead  with  impunity,  by  using  it  as  a  disinfectant. 
The  formula  for  so  called  thitvei?  vinegar  (Le  vinaigre  des  quatres 
voleurs).  is  as  follows  :  Dried  leaves,  or  tops  of  rosemary  and  sage, 
of  each.  4  <  z  ;  dried  flowers  <  f  lavender  2  <  z  ;  cloves,  1  drachm; 
distilled  vinegar,  1  gallon.     Digest,  for  seven  days,  press  and  filter. 


VINEGAR-AXLE  GREASE.  25 

Aromatic  Rosk  Vinegar.— Rod  roses,  picked  and  dried,  \  lb  ; 
best  vinegar.  4  pints;  macerate  for  fourteen  days,  stirring  occa- 
sionally, then  strain,  and  afterwards  Alter. 

Aromatic  Lavbndrr  Vinhgar  —Fresh  lavender  flowers.  ^  lb. - 
vinegar,  S  pints.     Macerate,  etc.,  as  directed  in  preceding  recipe. 

Artificial  Honey.     See  Honey,  artificial. 

Axle  Grease. 

Some  years  ago,  before  the  era  rif  cheap  petroleum,  tbe  manu- 
facture of  axle  grease  out  of  refuse  fats  was  quite  a  paying  busi- 
ness. Now,  owing  to  the  cheapness  of  the  heavy  petroleum  oils, 
there  is  not  so  much  opportunity  to  make  money,  and  it  is  found 
more  profitable  to  convert  even  cheap  and  rancid  fats  into  soap. 
But  as  the  plaut  required  for  the  manufacture  of  axle  grease  is 
not  nearly  so  extensive  or  so  costly  as  that  needed  for  a  soap  fac- 
tory, there  will  always  be  places  and  occasions  where  a  business  of 
this  kind  may  be  established. 

Almost  any  kind  of  fat  may  be  employed,  and  some  kinds,  such 
as  bad  butter,  may  be  utilized  for  this  purpose  that  are  unfit  for 
anything  else.  In  order  to  make  them  fit  for  lubricating  purposes 
they  must  be  carefully  rendered— that  is,  melted  and  freed  from 
impurities  If  mixed  with  a  proportion  of  plumbago,  the  quality 
and  appearance  are  greatly  improved,  and  for  heavy  wagous  tbe 
grease  should  be  hardened  bv  being  partially  converted  into  soap 
by  being  boiled  with  caustic  soda  The  manufacturer  would  do 
well  to  put  up  two  kinds  of  axle  grease — one  for  light  and  ihe 
other  for  heavy  wagons  They  may  be  named  No  1  and  No  2, 
and  should  differ  materially  in  hardness.  For  fine  light  wagons 
and  carriages  the  grease  should  be  comparatively  soft,  but  for 
bulb  kinds  the  plumbago  will  be  found  a  most  valuable  addition. 

Success  in  this  branch  of  business  will  depend  greatly  upon  the 
sources  of  supply  for  greas-e  and  plumbago  The  latter  is  chiefly 
in  tbe  hands  of  one  firm,  but  the  grease  may  be  obtained  from 
centres  of  butter  trade,  Irom  kuackers'  yards,  glue  factories,  etc., 
etc.  Any  special  ncipe  has  very  little  to  do  with  success,  simply 
because  ihe  manufacturer  cannot  afford  to  buv  staple  articles  of 
grease.  He  must  confine  himself  to  waste  products,  and  as  these 
vary  in  their  characteristics,  so  he  must  vary  his  lieatment  He 
must,  therefore,  make  a  special  study  of  the  subject  and  not 
depend  upon  any  one  recipe. 

The  rtctpe  usually  sold  for  this  purpose  is  that  of  the  celebrated 
"Booth's  Axle  Grease,"  which  was  oiiginally  designed  chuflv  for 
railroad  pmposes  The  fob owing  are  the  directions  given  in  the 
original  patent:  Dissolve  ^  lb  common  soda  in  1  gallou  of  water, 
add  3  lbs  of  tallow,  and  G  lbs  palm  oil  (or  10  lbs  palm  oil  on)))  ; 
heat  them  together  to  200  or  210  deg  F.;  mix,  and  keep  the  mix- 
ture constantly  stirred  till  the  composition  is  cooled  down  to  60 
or  70  deg.  F.     A  thinner  composition  is  made  with  £  lb.  of  soda, 


26  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

a  gallon  of  water,  a  gallon  of  rape-oil,  and  \  lb.  of    tallow,  or 
palm  oil. 

Thi8  is,  no  doubt,  a  most  excellent  preparation,  but  "  there  is 
no  money  in  it." 

Baldness.     See  Hair. 

Balsam  of  Honey. 

A  pleasant  compound  for  softening  and  whitening  the  skin, 
preventing  cbaps,  etc  It  is  thus  prepared  :  Take  of  finest  pale 
honey.  4  oz  ;  glycerine,  1  oz.;  unite  with  a  gentle  heat,  and  when 
nearly  cold  add  alcohol,  1  oz.,  essence  of  ambergris,  6  drops,  and 
bottle  it  at  once. 

Barometer,  or  Storm  Glass. 

This  is  an  article  for  which  there  seems  to  be  considerable 
demand,  although  it  is  well  known  that  its  indications  are  not 
quite  reliable.  But  as  the  formula  is  in  market,  we  give  it ;  Take 
2£  drs  of  camphor,  38  grs.  of  nitre,  and  38  grs  of  sal  ammonihc  ; 
dissolve  them  in  9  drs.  of  water,  and  6  drs  of  rectified  spirit,  with 
a  gentle  beat  This  is  placed  in  a  glass  tube,  covered  with  a  brass 
cap  with  a  small  hole  to  admit  air.  Or  i'  may  be  put  in  an  eau 
de  Cologne,  or  other  long  bottle,  tied  over  with  bladder.  Its 
various  changes  are  supposi  d  to  indicate  changes  of  weather,  but 
the  indications  are  not  to  be  relied  on  By  the  sale  of  the  instru- 
ment itself  a  large  fortune  must  have  been  made,  if  we  may  judge 
by  the  numbers  that  are  to  be  seen. 

Black-boards,  Liquid  Slating  for 

L;quid  slating,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  is  a  liquid  by  means 
of  which  any  smooth  board  or  wall  may  be  converted  into  a 
black  board  for  school  or  other  purposes  It  consists  essentially 
of  a  paint  or  varnish,  mixed  with  some  powder  that  will  give  it 
sufficient  roughness  to  cause  th  chalk  or  crayon  to  make  a  mark, 
and  yet  not  be  so  rough  as  to  grind  these  articles  away  unneces- 
fa-'ly.  The  liqud  may  be  anything  which,  when  dry,  is  not  easily 
acted  upon  by  water,  and  the  powder  should  be  light  and  sharp 
Emery  and  iron  oxide,  which  are  sometimes  recommended,  are 
too  heavy  and  are  difficult  to  apply,  from  tbe  fact  that  they 
sink  to  the  bottom  of  the  liquid  in  spite  of  constant  stirring. 
Pumice-stone,  finely  ground  and  well  sifted,  is  very  good  ;  so  is 
rottenstone  A  very  coarse  diatomaceous  earth  or  tripoli  would 
answer  well,  but  most  of  the  material  of  this  kind  that  can 
be  had  is  too  fine,  and  does  not.  give  a  cutting  suiface.  The  sur- 
face when  finished  should  be  a  dead  black,  and  not  a  shiny,  glisten- 
ing one  Lampblack  is  the  color  usually  employed,  but  it  is 
probable  that  a  carefully  prt pared  bone  black,  made  from  the 
hardest  and  most  solid  bones,  and  sifted  so  as  to  take  out  the 
coarse,  and  also  the  extremely  fine  particles,  would  make  the  best 


BLACKING  FOR  BOOTS  AND  SHOES.  27 

material.  A  small  quantify  of  some  very  dark  and  intense  b'ue 
might  he  add«  d  to  improve  the  color.  The  liquid  might  he  any  of 
those  nami  d  hereafter,  or  it  might  consist  of  at*mall  prop  rtion  of 
quick  drying  oil,  thinned  with  some  cheap  solvent  like  benzine. 
Trie  black  board  is  constantly  coming  into  more  extensive  use  in 
our  schools,  and  a  good  slating  Tqiid  will  always  command  a 
sale,  to  a  certain  extent  It  is,  therefore,  worth  while  to  experi- 
ment on  the  subject,  looking  to  the  production  of  a  cheap  as  well 
as  a  good  anicle.  The  following  are  the  recipes  generally  sold 
under  tins  bead  : 

1  Take  alcohol  (95  per  cent  )  4  pints  ;  shellac,  8  oz  ;  lamp- 
black, 12  drachms;  ultramarine  blue,  2  drachma  ;  powdered  rotten- 
stone,  4  i  z  ;  powdered  pumice  stone,  6  oz  First  dissolve  the 
shellac  in  the  alcohol,  then  add  the  other  ingredients,  finely 
powdered,  and  shake  well.  To  apply  the  stating,  have  the  surface 
of  the  board  smooth  and  perfectly  free  from  grease.  Shake  well 
the  bottle  containing  the  preparation,  pour  out  a  small  quantity 
only  into  an  old  tea  cup,  and  apply  it  with  a  new  flat  varnish 
brush  as  rapidly  as  possible.  Keep  the  bottle  well  corked,  and 
shake  it  up  every  time  before  pouring  out  the  liquid. 

2  Instead  of  alcohol  take  a  solution  of  borax  in  water;  dis- 
solve the  shellac  in  this,  and  color  with  lamp-black,  adding  a  little 
pumice  stone 

3.  Dilute  silicate  of  soda  (water  glass)  with  an  equal  bulk  of 
water,  and  add  sufficient  lamp  black  to  color  it.  The  lamp-black 
should  be  ground  with  water  and  a  little  of  the  silicate  before 
being  added  to  the  rest  of  the  liquid. 

Blacking  for  Boots  and  Shoes. 

Biacbiug  is  in  such  universal  demand  that  there  is  always  a 
market  for  a  good  article,  but  the  economical  manufacture  of 
something,  that  is  at  least  as  good  as  the  best,  requires  a  pretty 
extensive  outfit,  and  we  doubt  very  much  if  the  manufacture  of 
blacking  can  be  made  to  pay  on  a  small  scale.  Years  ago  blacking 
was,  in  many  cases,  an  article  of  household  manufacture,  but 
to  day  it  is  made  almost  entirely  by  certain  large  manufacturers. 
That  there  is  money  in  a  superior  article  there  can  be  no  doubt. 
It  seems  to  u«,  however,  that  in  order  to  realize  the  best  results, 
both  financially  and  as  regards  the  quality  of  the  product,  some 
of  the  materials  should  be  manufactured  also.  I  his  is  specially 
true  of  the  coloring  matter,  which  is  usually  bone  black.  In 
many  districts  the  materials  for  the  manufacture  of  bone  black 
may  be  obtained  cheaply,  and  in  considerable  quantity,  and  by 
preparing  it  himself  the  manufacturer  will  get  a  better  article  at  a 
cheaper  rate. 

A  good  blacking  should  preserve  the  leather,  give  a  fine  gloss, 
with  little  labor,  and  maintain  its  brilliancy  in  the  presence  of 
considerable  moisture.  In  almost  every  recipe  where  bone-black 
is  directed  to  be  used,  sulphuric  acid  is  also  employed,  and  if  the 


28  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

proportion  of  sulphuric  acid  or  oil  of  vitriol  is  not  too  great,  the 
lime  of  the  hone  black  will  so  combine  with  the  acid  that  the 
destructive  qualities  of  the  latter  will  be  completely  neutralized  ; 
but  if  too  much  acid  is  used,  the  leather  to  which  the  Marking 
is  applied  will  soon  be  rendered  rotten.  And  if  instead  of  genuine 
bone  black,  some  merely  carbonaceous  pigment  be  used,  such  as 
lamp  black  or  Franktort  black,  the  acid  will  not  be  neutralized, 
and  the  leather  to  which  the  blacking  is  applied  will  be  injured 
This  is  a  point  that  is  sometimes  overlooked  by  those  who  have 
not  had  considerable  practical  experience. 

The  old  recipes  directed  sugar,  treacle  or  molasses  as  an  agglu- 
tinant,  but  since  the  introduction  of  glycerine  as  a  cheap  article  of 
commerce,  it  has  been  found  that  great  advantage  is  obtained  by 
substituting  some  of  this  liquid  for  a  portion  of  the  molasses  If 
too  much  glycerine  be  used,  the  brilliancy  of  the  gloss  will  be 
impaired.  One  part  of  g'ycerine  to  three  of  molasses  will  serve 
to  soften  and  improve  the  leather,  without  affecting  the  other 
qualities. 

Since  glucose  possesses  properties  almost  identical  with 
molasses,  and  since  it  is  now  manufactured  at  a  cost  which  is 
merely  nominal,  it  is  not  improbable  that  this  substance  might  be 
used  to  good  advantage  in  the  manufacture  of  blacking. 

It  is  sometimes  found  advisable  to  remove  a  part  of  the  lime 
from  bone  black  by  dissolving  it  in  muriatic  acid.  The  process  is 
somewhat  troublesome  and  expensive,  but  it  greatly  improves  the 
product,  as  it  prevents  that  greyish  appearance  which  too  much 
lime  is  apt  to  give  A  good  deal  depends,  however,  on  the  quality 
of  the  bone-black  and  the  way  in  which  it  is  manufactured  If  it 
is  exposed  to  the  air  to  any  extent  whatever,  during  the  process  of 
burning,  it  will  lose  its  coloring  power.  The  bone  black  found  in 
commerce  generally  contains  an  unusual  proportion  of  lime,  a  cir- 
cumstance which  is  due  to  two  causes  One  is  that  much  of  the 
fats  or  solid  carbohydrides  are  removed  from  the  bones  before  they 
are  charred.  This  is  done  for  the  value  of  the  grease  or  fat. 
Another  is  that  much  of  the  bone-black  that  is  sold  has  been 
charred  two  or  three  times,  having  been  first  used  for  decolorizing 
sugar.  Indeed,  almost  all  the  bone-black  that  is  found  in  market 
is  made  with  a  view  to  the  decolorizing  and  purifying  of  sugar 
and  other  organic  compounds,  and  not  for  the  purpose  of  forming 
a  pigment,  and  we  have  found  th>-t  very  different  methods  of  pre- 
paration are  required  if  we  would  secure  the  best  product  for 
each  of  these  purposes  Bone  black,  made  from  unprepared 
bones,  contains  much  more  carbon  ;  has,  consequently,  much 
greater  coloring  power,  and  will  produce  an  article  of  blacking  of 
such  superior  quality  that  it  will  always  pay  the  manufacturer  to 
prepare  his  own  bone  black.  When  bone  black  has  been  deprived 
of  its  lime,  the  caution  previously  given  in  regard  to  the  use  of  an 
excess  of  sulphuric  acid,  must  be  carefully  attended  to. 

Other  kinds  of    black  have  been  used,  but  none  have  been 


BLACKING  FOR  BOOTS  AND  SHOES.        29 

found  to  give  such  good  results  as  good  hone-black  Common 
lamp  black  lias  not  bod 3/  enough;  Frankfoit  black,  which  is  made 
by  charring  the  twigs  and  seeds  ot  the  vin<\  is  better,  but  does  not 
equal  bone-black  Neither  does  the  black  made  by  roasting  the 
kernels  <r  pits  of  funis  But  since  a  certain  shining  or  glossy 
quality,  which  is  found  to  be  detrimental  to  these  colors,  when 
used  as  paints,  seems  to  he  rather  an  advantage  in  the  manufacture 
of  blacking,  it  is  quite  possible  that  the  charcoal  from  sea-weed 
would  prove  of  special  value.  This  material  can  he  had  in  unlim- 
ited quantities  along  the  coast,  so  that  the  ouly  expense  would  be 
that  of  collecting,  drying  and  charring  it. 

Franc;s  tells  us  that,  the  ol  j-ct  of  the  oil  of  vitriol  is  to  promote 
the  shining  and  the  drying,  and  he  says  that  it  is  not  injurious,  if 
used  in  small  quantities  ;  but  it  ia  unnecessary,  and  has  the  t  fleet 
of  producing  a  whiteness  upon  the  leather  if  it  be  not  polished 
immediately  after  it  is  laid  on  '"Blacking  will  always  dry  well 
if  nm  de  wiih  vinegar,  and  shine  well  if  sugar  candy  be  substituted 
for  sugar."  The  great  objection  10  this  substitution,  however,  is 
the  extra  cost 

The  following  is  his  formula  for  a  blacking  without  sulphuric 
acid:  Bone  black,  4  oz  ;  molasses,  2  oz  ;  vinegar,  ^  pint;  sper- 
maceti oil,  a  teaspoonful  The  bone  black  must  be  very  finely 
ground,  and  the  oil  is  first  mixed  with  it.  The  molasses  are  then 
added,  and  lastly  the  vinegar  If  the  ingredients  are  of  the  best 
quality,  this  blacking  will  be  found  exce»dingly  good. 

The  addition  of  oil  to  blacking  lends  to  soften  and  preserve 
the  leather,  but  if  too  much  be  added,  it  increases  the  d  fficulty  of 
getting  a  good  "shine."  The  oil  chosen  should  be  some  cheap, 
non  drying  fat  oil.  Coarse  neatsfoot  oil  is  often  used,  and  would 
be  preferred  if  it  could  always  be  had  cheaply. 

It  is  said  that  the  enly  improvement  that  has  been  introduced 
in  the  manufacture  of  blacking  since  the  early  days  of  the  cele- 
brated Day  &  Martin  is,  a  ft  w  hours  after  the  conclusion  of  the 
mixture  of  the  ingredients  (but  before  adding  the  vinegar,  if 
any),  to  simmer  the  whole  very  gently  for  about  eight  or  ten 
minu'e*,  observing  to  stir  it  thoroughly  all  the  time  The  fire 
must  then  be  withdrawn,  and  the  pan  covered  over  until  it  is  quite 
cold,  when  half  an  hour's  vigorous  stirring  will  finish  the  proctss. 
In  this  way  a  degree  of  maturity  and  brilliancy  wiil  be  imparted 
to  the  product,  which,  without  the  application  of  heat,  it  would 
take  months  to  acquire,  if.  indeed,  it  ever  reached  it. 

The  beating  must  of  course  be  performed  either  in  stoneware, 
enamelled  or  wooden  vessels,  otherwise  the  acids  will  &ct  it  ju- 
riously.  Mixtures  are  readily  heated  in  wooden  vessels  by  means 
of  s'eam,  which  may  be  passed  through  in  coils  of  leaden  pipe. 
Lead,  when  exposed  to  the  action  ot  sulphuric  acid,  becomes 
quickly  coated  with  a  layer  of  sulphate  of  lead,  which  prevents 
further  action  on  this  metal. 

It  is  a  curious  fact  that  while  a  blacking,  which  put  ports  to  be 


30  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

French,  will  be  in  greatest  demand  in  this  country.  Frenchmen 
pr«  fer  a  blacking  which  claims  to  be  English  Thus  Labou'aye 
tells  us  that  "  the  blacking  which  is  generally  employed  is  that 
which  is  dried  aud  polished  hv  means  of  a  bru«h.  and  which  goes 
by  the  name  of  English  blocking  "  And  he  further  tells  us  that 
"there  are  a  multitude  of  recipes  for  preparing  this  article,  into 
which  ivory  or  bone  black,  su'phuric  acid,  and  a  gummy  or 
saccharine  matter  always  enter.  The  reripe,  which  gives  a  good 
blacking  at  the  lowest  possible  price,  is  the  one  to  be  preferred, 
and  the  following  combines  these  important  points  :     Take  of 

"  Ivory  black 2      kilogrammes. 

Molasses 2  " 

Su  phuric  acid.  siroDg 0  40  " 

Powdered  gall  nuts 0  12  " 

Sulphate  of  iron 0  12  " 

Water 2  litres. 

[The  kilogramme  is  2*2  pouuos,  and  the  litre  is  1  06  quarts  ] 

*•  Pour  the  molasses  into  an  earthen  vesstl,  of  a  capacity  of  10 
litres,  and  mix  in,  little  by  little,  the  ivory  black  [or  rather  the 
bone-black,  for  the  French  d«  fine  ivory  black  as  an  animal  char- 
coal made  from  selected  bones]  The  gal'-nuts  are  to  be  hoiled  for 
one  hour  in  a  litre  of  water,  and  then  filtered.  The  sulphate  of 
iron  is  to  be  dissolved  in  the  remainder  of  the  water,  and  half  the 
solution  is  to  be  mixed  with  the  ivory  black  and  the  molasses.  To 
the  remainder  of  the  solution  is  added  the  sulphuric  acid,  stirring 
constantly,  and  the  whole  is  poured,  little  by  little,  with  constant 
stirring,  into  the  vessel  containing  the  molasses  and  ivory  black. 
A  lively  effervesence  ensues,  the  volume  of  the  mass  increases 
very  much,  and  it  becomes  quite  thick.  Finally  the  infusion  of 
nut  galls  is  added,  and  the  whole  mixed  well  together. 

•'  The  result  is  a  soft  paste.  If  gum  has  been  added  to  the  black- 
ing, it  will  have  solidified,  because  it  combines  with  the  oxide  of 
iron,  forming  an  almost  insoluble  compound.  If  a  liquid  black- 
ing is  desired,  the  mass  should  be  diluted  with  5  litres  of  water, 
well  stirred,  and  bottled  quickly,  the  whole  being  stirred  vigor- 
ously, so  as  to  avoid  the  formation  of  the  deposit  which,  without 
this  precaution,  would  certainly  be  formed ." 

This  is  substantially  the  old  English  recipe  which,  with  a  few 
changes,  such  as  we  have  already  noted,  gives  most  excellent 
results. 

The  following  is  a  favorite  recipe,  which  yields  an  excellent 
liquid  blacking.  By  diminishing  the  proportion  of  beer  or  vinegar, 
a  paste  blacking  of  any  degree  of  consistence  is  produced  : 

Take  of  bone-black,  16  parts  ;  molasses,  12  pans;  oil  of  vitriol, 
3  parts ;  oil,  of  any  good,  fat,  non  drying  kind,  2  parts;  gum 
arabic,  1  part;  strong  vinegar,  or  sour  beer,  48  to  50  pans  (all  by 
weight);  place  the  bone-black  in  a  capacious  wooden,  stoneware, 
or  enamelled  iron  vessel,  add  the  oil,  and  rub  them  well  together; 
next  gradually  add  the  molasses,  and  actively  aud  patiently  grind 


BLACKING  FOR  BOOTS  AND  SHOES.  31 

or  rub  the  mass,  after  each  addition,  until  the  oil  is  perfectly 
killed,  and  finally  for  some  time  afterwards,  to  ensure  complete 
admixture;  then  cautiously  dilute  the  vitriol  with  about  three 
times  its  bulk  of  water,  and  add  it,  in  separate  portions,  to  the 
former  mixture,  observing  to  stir  the  whole  together  as  rapidly  as 
possible  on  each  addition  of  the  acid,  and  for  some  minutes  after 
the  whole  is  added,  so  as  to  render  the  mass  thoroughly  smooth 
acd  homogeneous;  let  it  stand,  covered  over,  for  two  or  three 
days,  or  longer,  stirring  it  in  the  meantime  for  fifteen  or  twenty 
minutes  daily ;  lastly,  having  dissolved  the  gum  in  the  vinegar, 
add  the  solution  gradually  to  the  rest,  and  stir  the  whole  together 
briskly  for  some  time,  and  again  daily  for  three  or  four  days.  It 
may  be  further  dilut«  d,  at  will  with  a  little  more  vinegar  or  beer, 
or  with  water;  but  unnecessary  or  excessive  dilution  should  be 
avoided,  as  the  richness  and  quality  of  the  blacking  bec<  me  pro- 
portionately reduced  If  all  the  ingrediems  (»  xc«  pt  the  vitriol)  be 
made  hot  btfore  admixture,  the  shining  quality  of  the  product,  will 
be  greatly  improved,  the  process  may  be  shortened,  and  the 
necessity  for  suhstquent.  heating  in  a  measure  avoided.  Remem- 
ber, however,  that  the  mixture  of  cold  oil  of  vitriol  with  cold 
water  produces  a  liquid  of  almost  a  boiling  temperature 

It  is  said  that  the  following  formula  for  German  Paste  Blacking 
is  by  the  celebrated  chemist,  Liebig: 

Ivory  black.  1  part;  molasses,  i  part;  sweet  oil  £  part ;  mix 
as  directed  in  the  previous  r«  eipe  ;  i  ben  stir  in  a  mixture  of  hydro- 
chloric acid.  £  part  ;  oil  of  vitriol,  {  part  (each  separately  diluted 
with  twice  its  weight  of  water  before  mixing  them  ) 

A  recipe  for  a  so  called  waterproof  blacking  has  been  exten- 
sively sold,  being  copied  from  various  recipe  books,  most  of 
which,  however,  give  it  in  a  very  mutilated  form.  Cooley  recom- 
mends it  very  highly  but  whether  from  experience  or  mere  hear- 
say we  know  not.  The  following  are  the  ontrmal  directions  given 
by  the  patentees.  James  &  Br\ant  :  Dissolve  18  oz  of  caoutchouc  in 
about  9  pounds  of  hot  rape  oil  To  this  solution  60  pounds  of  fine 
ivory  (t)one?)  black  and  45  pounds  of  molasses  are  to  he  added, 
along  with  1  pound  of  finely  ground  gum  arahio.  previously  dis- 
8olv«  d  in  20  gallons  <  f  v  uegar  of  strength  No  27  These  mixed 
ingredients  are  to  be  finely  triturated  in  a  paint  mi'l  till  the  mix- 
ture b>  comes  p'rbclly  smooth  To  this  varnish  12  pounds  of 
sulphuric  acid  are  to  be  now  added  in  small  successive  quantities, 
with  powerful  stirring  for  haf-an-hour.  The  blacking  Urns  com- 
pounded is  allowed  to  stand  for  14  flays,  it  being  stirred  for  half- 
an  hour  daily  ;  at  the  end  of  which  time  3  pounds  of  finely  giound 
gum  arabic  are  added,  after  which,  the  stirring  is  repeated  half  an- 
h<  ur  daily  for  fourteen  days  longer,  when  the  liquid  blacking  is 
ready  for  use. 

In  making  the  paste  blacking,  the  patentees  prescribe  the 
above  quantities  of  india  rubber  oil,  ivory  black,  molasses,  and 
gum   arabic,   the  latter  being    dissolved   in   only    12  pounds   of 


S2  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPE& 

vinegar.  These  ingredients  are  to  be  well  mixed,  and  then  ground 
together  in  a  mill  until  they  form  a  perfectly  smooth  pat»te.  To 
this  paste  12  pounds  of  sulphuric  acid  are  to  be  added  in  small 
quantities  at  a  lime,  with  powerful  stirriog,  which  is  to  be  con- 
tinued for  half  an  hour  afier  the  last  portion  of  the  acid  has  been 
in'.roduced.  This  paste  will  be  found  fit  for  use  in  about  seven 
days. 

Dressing  for  Ladirs'  Shoes,  eto  — Boil  for  half  an  hour  20 
parts  of  bruised  gall  nuts  and  10  parts  of  logwood  in  500  parts  of 
water;  strain  the  liquor  and  add  lO  parts  sulphate  of  iron  and  2£ 
parts  sulphate  of  copper,  and  allow  the  whole  to  stand  12  hours. 
The  next  day  the  clear  fluid  is  drawn  from  the  sediment  and 
heated,  and  00  parts  of  gum  arabic  dissolved  in  it,  and  finally  60 
parts  of  syrup  and  150  parts  of  alcohol  added 

This  is  evidently  a  badly  made  ink,  thickened  with  gum  and 
syrup,  and  preserved  with  alcohol. 

French  Dkhssing  for  Boots,  Shoes,  Hand-Bags,  bto  — 
Vinegar  2  pints;  water,  1  pint;  glue,  £  lb.;  logwood  chips, 
£lb;  finely  powdered  indigo,  £  oz  ;  solt  soap,  £<z  ;  isinglass, 
£  <  z  Soak  the  isinglass  and  glue  in  the  water  and  beat  until 
dissolved.  Bail  the  logwood  in  the  vinegar  for  20  minutes  and 
strain.  Add  the  hot  solution  of  glue  and  isinglass,  and  stir  in  the 
indigo  and  soft  soap. 

French  Blacking. — The  following  article  requires  no  polish- 
ing It  is  to  lie  applied  wiih  a  sponge  and  allowed  to  dry.  Take 
molastes,  4  <  z  ;  lampblack.  £  cz  ;  yeast,  a  tablespoouful ;  the 
whites  of  two  eggs;  olive  oil,  a  teaspoonful ;  oil  of  turpentine,  a 
teaspoonful.     Mix  well. 

It  is  very  evident  that  such  a  mixture  would  not  keep  well. 

Aut  matio  or  Shif  Shining  Dkessing  —  Gum  arabic,  16  oz  ; 
molajses  or  coarse  brown  sugar,  6  oz  ;  good  black  ink.  1  pint; 
strong  vinegar,  8  oz.;  alcohol  and  sweet  oil,  of  each  4  oz  Dissolve 
the  sum  in  the  ink,  add  the  oil,  and  nib  together  until  they  foim 
a  smooth  emulsion  Then  add  the  vinegar  and  w«>rk  that  in 
thoroughly  which  may  be  done  by  i-haking  on  the  small  scale, 
or  by  iriiuralmg  larger  quantities.  At  the  close  add  the  alcohol, 
mix  it  well  in,  and  bottle  the  bquid  immediately. 

When  well  made  of  good  materials  this  polish  gives  a  beautiful 
gloss  to  all  kinds  of  leather,  but  as  it  is  not  water-proof,  it  is  only 
adapted  to  clean  dry  weather  or  indoor  use. 

Bleaching  Liquid. 

This  name  has  been  given  to  several  compounds,  and  the  one 
generally  recognized  by  this  term  is  a  solution  of  chloride  of  lime. 
All  Hie  liquids  of  th  s  class,  however,  including  L'ibarraque's 
Fluid  and  Javelle  Water,  are  corrosive,  and  for  some  purposes 
inadmissible.  Oue  of  the  most  powerful,  and  certainly  the  least 
injurious   to   most   materials,    is   the  peroxide   of    hydrogen,   or 


BLEACHING  LIQUID-CEMENTS.  33 

Thenard's  oxygenated  water.  It  is  to  be  found  in  market  at  a 
very  bigh  price,  put  up  in  small  bottles,  and  used  by  ladi( 
changing  the  color  of  the  hair  to  a  beautiful  golden  hue,  and  it  is 
probably  the  only  hair  colorant  that  does  not  exert  an  injurious 
influence  on  the  health.  For  bleaching  ivory,  bone,  and  similar 
easily  corroded  materials,  it  is  the  only  thing  that  should  ever  be 
used. 

It  is  somewhat  difficult  to  prepare  by  those  who  have  had  no 
experience,  and  those  who  undertake  its  manufacture  should  by 
all  means  study  the  subject  carefully  in  the  larger  chemical  books 
before  entering  upon  the  work  to  any  great  extent.  But  like 
many  other  things,  it  can  be  made  easily  and  cheaply  if  the  proper 
appliances  are  used.  The  following  directions  will  form  a  guide 
to  those  who  wish  to  experiment  on  the  subject: 

Expose  fragments  of  perfectly  pure  baryta  to  a  current  of 
oxygen  gas,  in  a  green  glass  tube  heated  to  a  dull  redness,  so 
as  to  form  a  deutoxide  of  barium.  To  7  oz  of  water  add  as  much 
pure  hydrochloric  acid  as  will  dissolve  4  drs.  of  baryta ;  add  to 
this  by  degrees,  3  drs.  of  pulverized  deutoxide  of  barium,  and 
when  this  is  dissolved,  add  sulphuric  acid,  drop  by  drop,  till  the 
baryta  falls  down  in  the  state  of  sulphate.  Then  add  more 
deutoxide,  and  precipitate  by  sulphuric  acid  as  before.  Then 
filter  the  solution  ;  and  repeat  the  solution  and  precipitation 
several  times,  till  about  3  oz.  of  deutoxide  of  barium  are  used, 
filtering  the  liquid  after  every  second  repetition.  Sulphate  of 
silver  is  then  added  to  remove  the  hydrochloric  acid,  and  after- 
wards pure  baryta,  to  throw  down  the  sulphuric  acid,  and  a  few 
drops  of  diluted  sulphuric  acid  to  remove  any  excess  of  baryta. 

This  energetic  compound  must  not  be  confounded  with  the 
oxygen  water  formed  by  impregnating  water  with  oxygen  gas  ; 
nor  with  the  oxygenous  aerated  water  of  Searle,  which  is  water 
strongly  charged  with  protoxyde  of  nitrogen. 

Cements. 

It  is  an  old  adage,  that  "accidents  will  occur  even  in  the  best 
regulated  families,"  and  when  these  accidents  take  the  form  of 
the  breakage  of  a  piece  of  furniture  or  crockery  ware,  the  first 
thing  the  good  housewife  generally  looks  for  is  some  cement  with 
which  to  repair  damages;  and  so  strong  is  this  instinct,  that 
we  have  known  a  very  frugal  housekeeper  to  spend  twenty  five 
cents  for  cement  wherewith  she  might  mend  a  five-cent  teacup! 
And  all  this,  of  course,  works  to  the  advantage  of  the  small  man- 
ufacturer of  these  goods.  The  following  are  a  few  well  known 
and  thoroughly-tried  formulae  for  producing  saleable  articles.  The 
goods  may  be  put  up  in  various  ways ;  some,  like  the  liquid 
cement,  must  be  put  up  in  small  bottles;  others  are  best  put  up  in 
tin  boxes,  while  a  very  excellent  cement  for  some  articles  of 
earthenware  may  be  formed  into  rolls,  wrapped  in  paper,  and  sold 
at  a  cheap  rate.     Manufacturers   of  cement  frequently  furnish 


34  TEADE  SECEETS  AND  PEIYATE  EECIPES. 

samples,  showing  the  strength  of  their  wares,  and  this  is  a  capital 
idea.  A  person  who  sees  a  broken  plate  cemented  together,  and 
a  weight  of  many  pounds  supported  by  the  joint,  is  always  per- 
suaded that  the  cement  is  good,  although  such  tests  really  prove 
nothing-  A  plate  of  glass,  six  inches  wide  and  a  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick,  exposes  a  surface  of  one-and-a-half  square  inches  on 
the  joint.  Now,  a  rock  weighing  75  lbs.  makes  quite  a  show,  and 
if  the  joint  will  hold  up  such  a  block  without  parting,  it  would 
seem  that  the  cement  must  be  extraordinarily  pood  ;  and  yet  the 
force  to  which  the  joint  is  subjected  is  only  50  lbs.  per  square 
inch,  an  1  almost  anything  will  stand  that. 

In  selecting  a  cement  for  sale  to  the  public,  one  must  be  chosen 
which  will  keep  well,  and  which  is  easily  applied.  There  are 
several  excellent  cements,  such  as  white  of  eggs  and  lime,  Sorel's 
cement,  etc.,  that  set  very  toon  after  they  are  mixed.  Such 
cements  cannot  be  made  a  merchantable  article,  and  consf  qnently 
the  recipes  are  of  no  use  to  the  small  manufacturer,  although 
recipes  for  them  have  been  sold  at  astonishingly  high  prices.  A 
very  good  cement  consists  of  plaster  of  paris,  mixed  wilh  a  solu- 
tion of  gum  arabic  to  a  thinnisb  paste.  This  cement  is  beautifully 
white,  and  will  join  two  pieces  of  china  or  crockery  very  firmly, 
but  as  it  sets  in  a  few  minutes,  it  would  ioim  a  solid,  useless  mass 
as  s^on  as  bottled. 

For  this  reason  white  lead,  red  lead  and  similar  compounds 
should  never  form  an  ingredient  in  cements  that  are  to  be  kept  for 
any  length  of  time,  though  they  are  invaluable  when  the  com- 
pound is  to  be  applied  as  soon  as  used.  The  following  recipe  has 
been  sold  at  very  high  prices  :  Take  g'ue,  26  oz  :  white  lead,  6  oz  ; 
wa'er,  3  pints  :  alcohol,  1  pint.  Dissolve  the  glue  over  the  fire  in 
a  proper  glue  pot,  mix  in  the  white  lead,  and  when  cold  add  the 
alcohol,  and  bottle.  Now,  this  forms  an  admirable  cement  while 
fresh,  but  after  a  time  the  white  lead  combines  with  the  glue  and 
the  article  loses  its  strength.  If  good  whiting  had  been  substi- 
tuted for  the  white  lead,  the  cement  would  have  kept  much  longer, 
though  it  might  not  have  been  any  better  to  begin  with.  The 
game  is  true  of  oil  and  varnish.  There  is  hardly  any  cement 
better  than  good  white  lead  ground  in  quick  drying  oil  or  varnish, 
and  it  will  join  white  china  or  earthenware  so  that  the  joint  is 
almost  imperceptible,  but,  if  bottled  it  soon  spoils  But  good  var- 
nish ground  up  with  enough  sulphate  of  barytes  to  give  it  color, 
will  keep  for  a  long  time  if  well  corked,  ?nd  forms  a  most  excel- 
lent cement.  Sulphate  of  barytes  is  known  as  "  Paris  white,"  but 
as  there  is  a  good  deal  of  confusion  in  regard  to  the  names  of 
white  pigments,  considerable  care  must  be  taken  to  get  the  right 
thing. 

The  following  recipes  give  good  results,  and  the  articles  keep 
well : 

Diamond  Cbment— Soak  £  rz  of  isinglass  in  4  cz  water  for  24 
hours  ;_evaporate  in.a  water  bath  to  2  oz.,  add  2  oz.  rectified  spirit 


CEMENTS.  95 

(alcohol  of  85  per  cent  ),  and  strain  through  linen.  M'x  this  solu- 
tion while  warm  with  a  solution  of  beet  gum  mastic  in  2  «  z  alcohol; 
ad ii  I  dracbm  powdered  gam  ammoniac,  and  triturate  together 
umil  perfectly  incorporated,  avoiding  loss  of  the  alcohol  by  evapo- 
ration as  much  a^  possible. 

Instantaneous  Chmunt. — A  solution  of  1  part  of  amber  in  2 
parts  of  bisulphide  ol  carbon  forms  a  cement  which  is  very  strong, 
and  which  dries  so  rapidly  that  the  articles  can  be  used  in  a  few 
minutes  afier  ihey  have  been  mended  Bisulphide  of  carbon  is 
now  comparatively  cheap,  Out  its  odor  is  rather  objectionable. 
This  soon  passes  off,  however. 

Botany  Bay  Ckmbnt  — This  famous  cement  is  composed  of  a 
gum  resin  called  B  itauy  Bay  gum  and  brick  dust  melted  together. 
Botany  Bay  gum  is  produced  by  a  plant  which  grows  iu  New 
Holland,  and  is  not  iilwajs  obtainable  bere  The  best  substitute  is 
a  mixture  of  3  parts  of  shellac  and  1  part  of  pale  resin  (colophony). 
This  may  be  mixed  with  very  finely  powdered  brick  dust  for  a 
reddish  cement,  or  with  plaster  of  Pans  or  sulphate  of  baryta  for 
a  white  article.  It  should  be  put  up  in  rolls  about  the  size  of  a 
lead  pencil  and  3  inches  long,  and  wrapped  in  paper,  giving  full 
directions  for  its  use.  It  is  applied  by  heating  the  article  until  it 
will  melt  the  cement;  the  latter  is  then  applied  thinly  to  the 
brokeu  edges,  the  parts  are  pressed  into  close  contact  and  allowed 
to  cool. 

Unfortunately  this  cement  softens  with  the  heat  of  boiling 
water,  so  that  articles  washed  in  hot  water  must  be  handled  care- 
fully.    But  when  cold  it  is  very  strong. 

WatkkproofCemknt. — The  following  is  an  old  and  tried  recipe: 
Take  a'e,  1  pint;  best  Russian  isinglass,  2  oz  ;  soak  in  a  close 
vessel  for  12  hours,  and  then  put  them  into  a  common  glue  kettle 
and  boil  until  the  isinglass  is  dissolved  ;  then  add  4  oz  of  the 
best  common  glue,  and  dissolve  it  with  the  other;  then  slowly 
add  li  oz  of  boiled  linseed  oil,  stirring  all  the  time  while  adding, 
and  until  well  mixed.  When  cold  it  will  resemble  india-rubber. 
When  you  wish  to  use  this,  dissolve  what  you  need  in  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  ale,  to  have  the  consistence  of  thick  glue.  It  may  be 
used  for  earthenware,  china,  glass  or  leather;  for  harness;  bands 
for  machinery ;  cloth  belts  for  cracker  machines  for  bakers,  etc. 
If  for  leather,  shave  off  as  if  for  sewing,  apply  the  cement  with  a 
brush  while  hot,  layiug  a  weight  to  keep  each  joint  firmly  for  6  to 
10  hours,  or  over  uight.  If  colored  red  with  a  little  bole,  or  white 
with  a  little  fine  plaster  of  Paris,  it  might  be  put  up  in  wide-mouthed 
bottles  or  earthen  pots,  closely  covered,  and  sold  as  waterproof  glue, 
with  full  directions  for  use. 

When  plaster  of  Paris  is  used  for  this  and  similar  purposes,  it  is 
not  best  to  use  that  which  will  set.  Pure  plaster,  which  has 
been  moistened  and  allowed  to  set,  may  be  had  at  a  cheap  rate 
from  the  Italian  image  makers,  stereotypers,  and  others.     This 


36  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

should  be  ground  to  a  very  fine  powder,  and  used  instead  of  fresh 
plaster.  It  bus  no  tendency  to  set,  and  acts  merely  as  a  coloring 
matter  and  a  diffused  solid,  the  latter  being  a  very  important 
function  in  some  compositions. 

There  is  scarcely  any  cement  better  than  a  pure  article  c<>f  lime 
mixed  with  the  white  of  egg.  The  best  lime  for  this  purpose  is 
said  to  be  that  from  oyster  shells.  The  shells  should  be  thor- 
oughly cleaned,  well  burned,  air-slacked  and  finely  powdered. 
Such  a  powder  put  up  in  long,  green  glass  bottles  would  be  a 
great  convenience  to  the  public  and  a  source  of  revenue  to  the 
manufacturer.  A  little  white  of  egg  is  easily  procured  at  any 
time,  but  good  lime  is  not  so  easily  obtained.  As  much  of  tho 
powder  as  will  lie  upon  a  dime,  if  made  into  a  thin  paste  with 
white  of  egg,  will  mend  almost  any  common  bowl,  plate  or  tea- 
cup.    Full  directions  should  accompany  each  bottle. 

Chilblains. 

Various  remedies  are  in  market  for  these  annoying  sores,  most 
of  the  remedies,  however,  being  of  a  domestic  character,  so  that 
there  is  not  much  room  for  the  preparations  of  the  pharmacist. 
The  recipes  usually  sold  for  chilblain  remedies  are  these  : 

Chilblain  Salve. — Mutton  tallow  and  lard,  of  each  f  lb. ;  melt 
in  an  iron  vessel  and  add  hydrated  oxyde  of  iron2oz.,  stirring 
continually  with  an  iron  spoon  until  the  mass  is  of  an  uniform 
black  color;  then  let  it  cool  and  add  Venice  turpentine,  2  oz.  ; 
Armenian  bole,  1  oz. ;  oil  of  bergamot,  1  dr.;  rub  up  the  bole  with 
a  little  olive  oil  before  putting  it  in. 

Lhjeune's  Balsam  for  Chilblains. — Camphor,  1  dr. ;  tincture 
of  benzoin,  5  drs.  ;  dissolve,  and  add  iodide  of  potassium,  5  drs. ; 
extract  of  lead,  10  grs.  ;  spirit  of  wine,  reduced  to  proof  with  rose 
water,  2£  oz.  ;  dissolve  10  drs.  of  white  soap  in  2h  oz.  of  the  same 
diluted  spirit,  by  a  gentle  heat ;  mix  the  solutions  whilst  still 
warm,  and  add  any  perfume.  Let  it  cool  in  wide-mouthed  bottles, 
and  cork. 

Chilblain  Liniment. — Camphorated  spirits,  2  oz.  ;  Goulard's 
extract,  1  oz.     Mix.     To  be  applied  three  or  four  times  a  day. 

Cider. 

Genuine  cider  cannot  be  made  from  anything  but  the  juice  of 
apples,  properly  expressed  and  fermented.  Anything  else  is  a 
fraud.  Some  of  the  recipes  for  artificial  cider  that  have  been  sold 
do  not  give  an  article  having  anything  of  the  flavor  of  cider,  and 
the  stuff  cannot  be  sold  for  cider  to  any  person  who  has  ever 
tasted  the  real  article.  Such,  for  example,  is  that  which  directs 
2  lb.  of  sugar  or  molasses;  1  oz  tartaric  acid  ;  4  tablespoonfuls  of 
yeast ;  2  gallons  of  water.  Dissolve  the  sugar  in  part  of  the 
water,  made  hot,  and  then  mix  the  whole. 

Other  recipes  of  a  similar  stamp  have  been  sold,  but  none  of 


CIDER— CORNS.  37 

them  will  enable  the  user  to  produce  an  article  having  the  flavor 
and  character  of  real  cider.  lu  some  cases  the  recipe  directs  the 
use  of  a  portion  of  reul  cider,  or  the  mixture  of  some  of  the 
"cheese"  from  a  cider  press.  This,  of  course,  gives  a  sort  of 
dilute  cider,  hut  cannot  give  satisfaction;  and  besides,  the  vendor 
of  such  stuff,  which  is  very  easily  detected  by  any  chemist  who 
chooses  to  spend  five  minutes  in  examining  it,  lays  himself  liable  to 
heavy  penalties  in  most  States.  Our  advice  to  our  readers,  there- 
fore, is  to  let  such  mixtures  alone,  and  to  put  no  faith  in  any  one 
who  promises  to  furnish  a  recipe  for  "cider  without  apples." 

Corns. 

Corns  arc  such  a  common  ailment  that  any  good  remedy  is 
sure  to  have  quite  a  run.  Very  few  people  care  to  consult  a 
doctor,  and  yei  corns  are  so  annoying  that  something  must  be 
done,  and  so  the  first  cheap  remedy  that  presents  itself  is  the  one 
that  is  usually  bought,  unless  indeed  the  sufferer  should  have  some 
special  remedy  recommended  by  a  friend,  and  this  is  often  the 
case. 

Most  of  the  recipes  direct  the  use  of  powerful  caustics — in 
some  cases  too  powerful  to  be  safe,  lhus,  the  following  is  one 
that  has  been  freely  sold  : 

Celebrated  Three-Minute  Salve.— For  removing  corns  and 
warts.  It  never  fails.  Caustic  potash,  1  lb  ;  extract  belladona, 
A  oz  ;  peroxide  manganese,  2  oz.  Mix  and  make  into  a  salve 
with  a  little  lard.  Put  up  in  ^-oz.  tin  boxes  ;  sells  for  25  cents. 
Apply  to  the  corn  or  wart,  and  in  three  minutes  it  will  come  off. 

Caustic  potash  is  the  old  potential  cautery,  or  lapis  infernalis 
(infernal  atone).  The  peroxide  of  manganese  would  merely  serve 
to  color  the  compound,  and  the  lard  would  aid  in  the  formation 
of  a  soft  soap.  Caustic  potash  should  not  be  sold  for  such  pur- 
poses without  sufficient  warning  as  to  its  powerful  effect.  Such  a 
preparation  is  altogether  too  strong,  and  the  article  usually  sold 
consists  chiefly  of  a  strong  solution  of  carbonate  of  potash.  A 
powder  sold  for  the  same  purpose,  consists  of  carbonate  of  potash 
colored  with  ochre  or  bole.  A  pinch  is  placed  on  the  corn, 
and  confined  by  means  of  a  piece  of  adhesive  plaster  or  rag.  Sir 
Humphrey  Davy's  name  has  been  given  to  a  remedy  which 
consists  of  carbonate  of  potash  and  salt  of  sorrel,  similar*/ 
applied.  The  following  is  one  of  the  advertised  Corn  and  Bunion 
remedies:  Carbonate  of  soda,  1  oz.,  finely  powdered  and  mixed 
with  4  oz.  of  lard.  Applied  on  linen  rag  every  night:  the  outer 
skin  to  be  pared  off  every  two  or  three  days.  It  may  be  varied 
thus  :  Dried  soda  (carbonate?)  4  drs  ;  powder  blue  (smalts),  a 
scruple  ;  lard,  4  drs. ;  mix. 

Another  caustic  for  corns  is  prepared  as  follows:  Tincture  of 
iodine,  4  drs.  ;  iodide  of  iron,  12  grs. ;  chloride  of  antimony, 
4  drs. ;  mix,  and  apply  with  a  camel-hair  brush,  after  paring  the 


38  TRADE  SECEETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

corn.  It  is  said  to  cure  in  three  applications,  and  we  have  heard 
it  very  highly  recommended  by  persons  who  had  used  it. 

Strong  acetic  acid,  sold  in  hermetically  staled  glass  tubes,  is 
also  recommend)  d  for  this  purpose. 

The  following  recipe  has  been  sold  at  high  prices;  of  its  value 
we  know  nothing.  Mix  3  drs.  salicylic  acid,  32  grs.  extract  of 
Indian  hemp,  and  3  oz  of  collodion.  Apply  once  a  day  to  the 
hard  skin  by  means  of  a  small  brush.  The  skin  is  said  to  con- 
tract to  a  horn  like  crust,  and  to  become  detached  from  the  parts 
underneath  it,  so  that  it  can  be  easily  removed  without  the 
slightest  pain. 

Most  of  the  corn  plasters  that  are  sold  contain  verdigris,  or 
acetate  of  copper.     The  following  are  favorite  formulee  : 

1.  Galbanum  plaster,  1  oz.  ;  prepared  verdigris,  1  scruple ; 
melt,  and  mix. 

2.  Galbanum,  1  oz.  ;  black  pitch,  ^  oz  ;  simple  diachylon, 
£  oz. ;  verdigris,  a  scruple  ;  sal  ammoniac,  a  scruple.  Melt  the 
first  three  together,  and  add  the  last  two  in  fine  powder. 

3  Plaster  of  ammoniacum  with  quicksilver,  1£  oz  ;  soap 
plaster,  h  oz  ;  opium  in  fine  powder,  i  dr. 

Plasters  or  pads,  which  act  mechanically  by  relieving  the 
pressure  from  the  corn,  are  also  great  favorites.  Any  suitable 
adhesive  plaster  is  spread  on  soft  thick  leather  (buckskin),  which 
is  afterwards  cut  to  a  suitable  size  by  means  of  a  gun-punch  or 
wad-cutter,  and  a  hole  punched  in  the  centre.  They  are  some- 
times made  of  amadou,  vulcanized  india  rubber,  or  a  close,  com- 
pact felt. 

Court  Plaster. 

This  is  a  very  convenient  application  for  slight  wounds  or  cuts, 
and  is  easily  made.  It  is  found  of  various  colors,  chiefly  black  and 
flesh-colored,  and  this  depends  altogether  upon  the  color  of  the 
silk  used,  though  if  only  white  silk  were  at  hand  it  would  be  easy 
to  color  it  slightly  with  a  little  alkanet,  or  any  other  vegetable 
coloring  matter.     The  following  formula  gives  good  results : 

Soak  isinglass  in  a  little  warm  water  for  24  hours,  then  evapo- 
rate nearly  all  the  water  by  gentle  heat,  dissolve  the  residue  in 
a  little  proof  spirits  of  wine  (alcohol  of  85  per  cent),  and  strain  the 
whole  through  a  piece  of  open  linen.  The  strained  mass  should 
be  a  stiff  jelly  when  cool.  Now  stretch  a  piece  of  silk  or  sarsanet 
on  a  wooden  frame,  and  fix  it  ti^ht  with  tacks  or  packthread. 
Melt  the  jelly,  and  apply  it  to  the  silk  thinly  and  evenly  with 
a  badger-nair  or  any  very  fine  brush.  A  second  coating  must 
be  applied  when  the  first  has  dried,  and  in  some  cases  even  a  third 
is  given.  When  thoroughly  dry,  apply  over  the  whole  surface 
two  or  three  coatings  of  balsam  of  Peru.  Plaster  thus  made  is 
said  to  be  very  pliable  and  never  breaks.  The  quality  of  court 
plaster  depends  upon  the  quality  of  the  silk  used,  and  also  upon 
the  care  taken  to  exclude  all  irritating  and  poisonous  matter. 


COURT  PLASTER— EGGS.  39 

Many  of  the  dyed  silks  are  absolutely  poisonous,  and  if  the  isin- 
glass is  kept  too  long  in  water,  so  as  to  become  tainted,  it  may 
cause  serious  injury. 

Eggs. 

'I  tie  recipes  usually  sold  for  preserving  eggs  depend  for  their 
success  upon  the  exclusion  of  air  and  the  destruction  of  any  germs 
of  putrefaction  that  may  be  present  on  the  outside  of  the  egg.  If 
decay  baa  once  commenced  inside  the  eggs,  all  efforts  to  preserve 
them  will  prove  futile. 

To  exclude  the  air  the  eggs  may  be  coated  with  some  greasy 
or  resinous  substance.  Butter,  lard,  tallow,  wax  and  size  have 
been  recommended,  but  of  substances  acting  in  this  way,  nothiDg 
seems  so  efficient,  as  paraffine.  One  pound  is  said  to  be  enough 
for  1500  eggS,  and  as  ibis  material  is  not  liable  to  become  rancid 
or  to  suffer  other  changes,  it  seems  peculiarly  well  adapted  to  the 
purpose.  M.  Dnrand,  of  Biois,  proposes  to  preserve  eggs  by 
coating  them  with  silicate  of  soda. 

Various  pickles  have  been  recommended  for  preserving  eggs. 
Common  lime-water  answers  fairly  well,  as  the  lime  is  deposited 
on  the  shell,  forming  a  coating  which  excludes  all  air,  and  besides, 
the  caustic  lime  destroys  all  ^erms  of  putrefaction  on  the  outside. 
Common  salt  has  also  been  used  with  good  success.  These  pickles 
act  by  their  power  to  exclude  air  and  to  prevent  incipient  putre- 
faction. 

Another  class  of  pickles  act  by  placing  the  eggs  in  an  atmos- 
phere from  which  all  oxygen  has  been  removed.  Prominent 
amongst  these  are  sulphurous  acid,  which  miy  be  used  either  as 
pure  gas.  a  watery  solution  of  the  gas,  or  as  sulphite  of  some 
alkali.  When  used  as  pure  gas  the  eggs  are  closely  packed  in  an 
air-tight  bex,  over  which  is  placed  temporarily  another  box  of 
exactly  the  same  size,  hut  without,  any  bottom.  Sulphur-matches, 
such  as  are  used  for  sulphurizing  wine  casks  and  smothering  bees, 
are  burned  in  this  upper  box.  and  when  the  lower  box  containing 
the  eggs  has  been  saturated  with  the  gas,  the  upper  box  is 
removed,  and  the  lid  of  the  egg  box  tightly  screwed  on  and  the 
joints  made  air  tight.  The  latter  point  is  most  easily  accomplished 
by  having  a  narrow  strip  of  rubber  laid  over  the  edge  of  the  box. 

Such  is  the  method  for  the  large  scale.  Any  kind  of  glass, 
earthenware,  or  wooden  jar  may  be  used.  Metal  will  not  answer. 
If  the  operation  be  carefully  performed  eggs  may  be  kept  in  this 
way  for  a  long  lime.  A  solution  of  sulphite  of  lime  is  one  of  the 
most  convenient  forms  of  applying  this  method.  This  salt  is  pro- 
duced cheaply  on  the  large  scale,  and  is  sold  by  the  Rumford 
Chemical  Works,  of  Providence,  R.  I.  A  solution  of  half  a  pound 
in  a  gal  ion  of  water  makes  a  good  pickle  and  preserves  eggs  very 
effectually. 

In  all  c°.ses  the  eggs  must  be  fresh  to  begin  with,  and  they 
must  be  kept  in  a  cool  place— and  indeed,  under  these  conditions, 
eggs  will  keep  a  long  time  without  any  preparation. 


40  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

Beyond  what  we  have  stated  there  are  no  "secrets"  for  pre- 
serving eggs.  Various  complicated  formulae  have  been  sold,  but 
they  are  no  better  than  the  simple  solutions  we  have  named,  and 
are  vastly  more  expensive.  Their  superior  value  consists  wholly 
in  their  power  to  put  money  in  the  pockets  of  the  vendors.  The 
following  recipes  have  been  freely  offered  for  sale.  One  of  the 
earliest  recipes  is  that  of  Jayne  (patented  in  England  in  1791),  and 
is  as  follows : 

Take  a  bushel  of  lime,  2  lbs.  of  salt,  ^  lb  of  cream  of  tartar, 
and  water  sufficient  to  form  a  solution  strong  enough  to  float  an 
egg.  It  is  claimed  that  eggs  may  be  preserved  in  this  liquid  for 
two  years. 

The  following  has  had  strong  claims  made  for  it :  The  fresh 
eggs  are  carefully  placed  in  a  mixture  of  five  kilogrammes  of 
alum,  dissolved  in  five  litres  of  water,  heated  to  from  45  deg.  to 
50  deg.  O,  and  left  in  that  liquid  for  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes; 
the  eggs  are  next  drained,  and  in  the  meantime  the  solution  of 
alum  is  heated  to  a  boiling  point.  The  eggs  are  again  immersed 
in  the  liquid  and  kept  therein  from  ten  to  fifteen  seconds ;  after 
having  been  drained  and  cooled,  they  are  packed  in  either  dry 
bran,  sawdust,  cork  dust,  sifted  ashes,  or  in  cotton-wool. 

We  give  the  following  as  one  that  will  satisfy  the  most  exact- 
ing stickler  for  a  complicated  formula  :  Dissolve  in  one  gallon  of 
water  12  oz  of  quicklime  ;  6  oz.  common  salt ;  1  dr.  soda  ;  i  dr. 
saltpetre  ;  i  dr.  tartar,  and  1?  dr.  borax.  The  fluid  is  brought  into 
a  barrel,  and  sufficient  quicklime  to  cover  the  bottom  is  then 
poured  in.  Upon  this  is  placed  a  layer  of  eggs,  quicklime  is  again 
thrown  in,  and  so  on  until  the  barrel  is  filled,  so  that  the  liquor 
stands  about  ten  inches  deep  over  the  last  layer  of  eggs.  The 
barrel  is  then  covered  with  a  cloth,  upon  which  is  also  scattered 
some  lime. 

Face  Powders,  etc. 

However  much  these  things  may  be  condemned  and  ridiculed, 
there  is  always  a  demand  for  them,  and  it  is  as  well  that  a  simple 
and  harmless  preparation  should  be  placed  in  the  market  as  that 
those  foolish  persons  who  use  such  things  should  injure  them- 
selves with  the  use  of  poisonous  metals.  One  of  the  most  inno- 
cent kind  is  prepared  from  Venetian  talc,  or  French  chalk,  finely 
levigated.  These  are  sometimes  calcined,  to  increase  their  white- 
ness ;  but  this  diminishes  their  unctuosity  and  adhesiveness. 
Digestion  with  vinegar,  and  subsequent  washing,  are  practiced  for 
the  same  purpose.  Flake  white  (a  fine  variety  of  white  lead)  was 
formerly  much  used,  but  is  now  generally  condemned  as  unsafe  ; 
it  is  al30  liable  to  become  brown  under  certain  circumstances. 
Pearl  or  bismuth  white  (magistery  of  bismuth)  is  less  injurious 
when  pure,  but  is  subject  to  the  latter  inconvenience.  M.  Thenard 
recommends  oxide  of  zinc,  with  an  equal  weight  of  French  chalk 
prepared  by  vinegar.     Magnesia  is  said  to  be  employed  by  some, 


PACE  POWDERS.  41 

and  white  starch  is  often  used  fortlie  same  purpose.  Flake  white, 
pearl  white,  and  similar  compounds,  contain  lead  or  bismuth,  and 
should  be  studiously  avoided. 

RoUGB  is  prepared  from  carmine  and  the  coloring  matter  of 
safflower,  by  mixing  them  with  finely  levigated  French  chalk  or 
talc,  generally  with  the  addition  of  a  few  drops  of  olive  or  almond 
oil.  Sometimes  fine  white  starch  is  used  as  the  reducing  ingre- 
dient. It  is  used  in  the  form  of  powder,  pomade,  and  crepons — 
the  latter  being  pieces  of  crape  imbued  with  the  coloring  matter. 
Liquid  rouge  is  prepared  as  follow  -  : 

Carmine,  \  oz  ,;  strong  liquor  of  ammonia  (not  weaker  than 
•900),  1  oz.;  put  them  into  a  stoppered  bottle,  set  it  in  a  cool  place, 
and  occasionally  agitate  it  for  two  or  three  days,  to  effect  a  solu- 
tion ;  then  add  of  rose-water,  1  pint ;  and  after  admixture,  further 
add  of  esprit  de  rose,  h  fi.  oz.;  pure  rectified  spirit,  1  fl.  oz  ;  again 
well  agitate,  and  set  ihe  whole  aside  for  a  week  ;  lastly,  decant 
the  clear  portion  from  the  dregs  (if  any),  for  use  or  sale.  Very 
fine.  A  cheaper  article  is  made  by  omitting  a  portion  of  the  car- 
mine, and  the  whole  of  the  esprit  and  spirit;  and  a  still  inferior 
one  by  substituting  H  oz.  of  silver-grain  cochineal  (in  powder)  for 
the  carmine,  with  digestion  for  a  week  in  the  ammonia  previously 
diluted  with  one-half  of  the  water. 

Spanish  Lady's  Rouge. — This  is  properly  "rouge  crepons," 
though  cotton  wool,  which  has  been  repeatedly  wetted  with  a 
strong  ammoniacal  solution  of  carmine  and  dried,  is  usually  sold 
for  it.  The  true  "crepons"  are  pieces  of  white  woolen  crape, 
dyed  with  rouge.  The  crepon,  either  dry  or  moistened  with 
alcohol,  is  rubbed  on  the  cheeks  until  a  sufficient  tinge  is  pro- 
duced. Pieces  of  silk  are  also  prepared  and  used  in  the  same 
way.  Some  writers  assert  that  this  way  of  using  rouge  is  superior 
to  all  others.  The  author  of  "Cosmetics  and  the  Art  of  the  Com- 
plexion" says  "the  effect  produced  defies  detection,  and  is  per- 
fectly harmless." 

As  there  is  a  hesitancy  on  the  part  of  many  ladies  to  ask  for 
these  articles  in  stores  or  public  places,  the  sale  of  them,  through 
the  post  office,  offers  a  special  opportunity  for  establishing  an 
extensive  mail  business. 

Bloom  of  Almonds.— Boil  1  oz.  of  ground  Brazil  wood  in  2j 
pints  of  soft  water  for  30  minutes,  adding  the  juice  of  two  lemons 
towards  the  end ;  strain  and  add  £  oz.  of  isinglass,  \  oz.  of 
powdered  cochineal,  1  oz.  of  alum,  and  £  oz.  of  borax  ;  boil  again 
for  4  or  5  minutes,  and  strain  througli  muslin.  Glass  or  earthen- 
ware vessels  must  be  used,  as  metals  injure  its  color. 

Laird's  Bloom  of  Youth. — A  careful  analysis  of  this  article 
by  Prof.  Chandler  revealed  the  fact  that  it  consists  chieiiy  of  oxide 
of  zinc,  held  in  suspension  in  a  colorless  liquid.  It  owes  its  popu- 
larity entirely  to  the  advertising  enterprise  of  the  manufacturer. 

Rowland's  Kalydor. — This  is  a  solution  of  bichloride  of  mer- 
cury in  milk  of  almonds. 


42  TRADE  SECKETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

Fire  Extinguishing  Powders  and  Liquids. 

There  is  no  doubt  but  that  the  efficiency  of  water  in  extinguish- 
ing fires  is  greatly  increased  by  the  addition  of  certain  salts. 
These  act  in  two  ways :  They  cause  the  water  to  adhere  to  the 
surfaces  against  which  it  is  thrown,  and  to  wet  them  instead  of 
glancing  off  in  spherical  drops,  as  we  see  when  a  little  clean  water 
falls  on  a  hot  stove.  They  also  coat  the  surface  of  the  wood  or 
other  burning  material,  and  render  it  partially  incombustible. 
Such  salts  cannot  be  used  on  the  large  scale,  as  the  expense  would 
be  too  great,  but  where  a  few  tubs  or  buckets  of  water  are  kept  in 
a  house  or  office,  for  the  purpose  of  preventing  accidents  from 
fire,  they  are  of  great  value,  as  they  not  only  greatly  increase  the 
effective  value  of  any  given  quantity  of  water,  but  they  prevent 
it  from  becoming  putrid  or  tainted,  and  so  requiring  frequent 
change. 

Water  glass  or  silicate  of  soda  was  one  of  the  earliest  articles 
suggested,  and  it  is  one  of  the  best.  The  most  convenient 
form,  however,  would  be  a  powder,  put  up  in  packages,  each  one 
of  which  would  be  sufficient  for  a  common  siz?  pail  of  water. 
Such  a  composition  might  be  formed  of  alum,  2  parts  ;  sulphate 
of  ammonia,  1  part ;  common  salt,  4  parts.  Grind  to  a  fine 
powder,  and  make  up  into  ^-pound  packages. 

The  powder  known  as  Vienna  Fire  Extinguishing  Powder  is 
composed  of  sulphate  of  iron,  4  parts ;  sulphate  of  ammonia,  16 
parts.  This  quantity  is  sufficient  for  100  parts  of  water.  Other 
formula  are:  Sulphate  of  soda,  3  parts;  bicarbonate  of  soda,  2 
parts;  sal-ammoniac,  5  parts;  or,  sal-ammoniac,  3  parts;  bicar- 
bonate of  soda,  4  parts  ;  common  salt,  3  parts. 

Flavoring  Extracts— Artificial. 

Prof.  Maisch,  in  the  American  Journal  of  Plmrmacy,  gives  a 
series  of  formulce  for  preparing  these  artificial  extracts,  and  these 
formu  !E  have  been  copied  with  numerous  errors,  and  sold  quite 
freely  to  those  who  are  not  familiar  with  the  pages  of  that  excel- 
lent journal.  The  following  are  not  the  ones  commonly  sold, 
but  those  which  have  been  revised  by  Prof.  Maisch,  after  the 
original  formu'ae  of  Kletz'msky.  These  formulae  are  giveu  in 
paits  by  measure  for  100  parts  alcohol,  and  wheuever  acids  are 
used,  they  are  tn  be  previously  dissolved  in  alcohol : 

Apple. — Aldehyde,  2  parts  ;  chloroform,  acetic  ether,  nitrous 
ether,  and  oxalic  acid,  each  1 ;  glycerine,  4 ;  amylvaltrianic 
ether,  10. 

Apiuoot — Butyric  ether,  10;  valerianic  ether,  5;  glycerine,  4; 
amylic  alcohol,  2 ;  amyl-butyric  ether,  chloroform,  cenanthic  ether, 
and  tartaiic  acid,  each  1. 

Banana  —Consists  usually  of  butyric  ether  and  amyl-acetic 
ether,  equal  parts,  dissolved  in  about  5  parts  alcohol. 


FLAVORING  EXTRACTS,  ARTIFICIAL.  43 

Blackberry. — Tincture  of  orris  root  (1  to  8),  1  pint;  acetic 
ether,  30  drops  ;   butyric  ether,  00  drop3. 

Black  Cherry. — Benzoic  ether,  5;  acetic  etber,  10  j  oil  of 
perfiico  (peach  kernels)  and  benzoic  acid,  each  2;  oxalic  acid,  1. 

Chbbbt.— Benzoic  ether,  acetic  ether,  each  5;  glycerine,  3 ; 
cenanthie  ether  and  benzoic  acid,  each  1. 

Cubbant — Acetic  ether,  tartaric  acid,  each  5;  benzoic  acid, 
succinic  acid,  benzoic  ether,  aldehyde,  and  ojuanthic  acid,  each  1. 

Gkai'z.  -(E  ianthic  ether,  glycerine,  each  10;  tartaric  acid,  5  ; 
succinic  acid,  8;  aldehyde,  chloroform;  and  formic  ether,  each  2 ; 
and  methyl-salicylic  ether,  1. 

Lemon. — Oil  of  lemon,  acetic  ether,  and  tartaric  acid,  each 
10;  glycerine,  5;  aldehyde,  2;  chloroform,  nitrous  ether,  and 
succinic  ether,  each  1. 

Melon.— Sebacylic  ether,  10;  valerianic  ether,  5;  glycerine, 
3;  butyric  ether,  4;  aldehyde,  2;  formic  ether,  1. 

Nkotakimb —Extract  of  vanilla,  2  parts;  essence  of  lemon,  2; 
essence  of  pineapple,  1. 

Orange.— Oil  of  orange  and  glycerine,  each  10;  aldehyde  and 
chloroform,  each  2;  acetic  ether,  5;  benzoic  ether,  formic  ether, 
butyric  ether,  amyl-acetic  ether,  methyl-salicylic  ether,  and  tar- 
taric acid,  each  1. 

Peach. — Formic  ether,  valerianic  ether,  butyric  ether,  acetic 
ether,  glycerine,  and  oil  of  pcrsico,  each  5 ;  aldehyde  and  amylic 
alcohol,  each  2;  sebacylic  ether,  1. 

Pear. — Acetic  ether,  5;  amyl-acetic  ether  and  glycerine,  each  2. 
Pineapple.— Amyl-butyric  ether,   10;    butyric  ether,   5;  gly- 
cerine, 3  ;  aldehyde  and  chloroform,  each  1. 

Plum— Glycerine,  8;  acetic  ether  and  aldehyde,  each  5;  oil  of 
persico,  4 ;  butyric  ether,  2  ;  formic  ether,  1. 

Raspberry. — Acetic  ether  aud  tartaric  acid,  each  5  ;  glycerine, 
4;  aldehyde,  formic  ether,  benzine  ether,  butyric  ether,  amyl- 
butyric  etber,  acetic  ether,  ceaanthic  ether,  methyl-salicylic  ether, 
nitrous  ether,  sebacylic  ether,  aud  succinic  acid,  each  1. 

Strawberry.— Butyric  ether  and  acetic  ether,  each  5;  amyl- 
acetic  ether,  3;  amyl-butyric  ether  and  glycerine,  each  2;  formic 
ether,  nitrous  ether,  and  methyl-salicylic  ether,  each  1. 

The  different  manufacturers  of  artificial  fruit  essences  doubt- 
less prepare  them  by  formulae  of  their  own,  and  this  explains  the 
difference  in  the  flivor,  which  is  particularly  noticeable  on  largely 
diluting  them  with  water.  If  the  essences  have  been  prepared 
with  a  dilute  alcohol,  their  odor  is  more  prominent,  and  they  are 
apparently  stronger;  bur  on  raixiQg  a  small  quantity  with  a  large 
amount  of  water  in  given  proportions,  the  true  flavoring  strength 
may  be  better  discerned. 


U  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

The  red  color  of  strawberry  and  raspberry  essences  is  produced 
by  aniline  rod  (fuchsine),  the  bluish  tint  of  which  is  conveniently 
neutralized  by  a  little  caramel.  If  caramel  alone  is  used  for 
coloring;  essence,  a  yellow  or  brown  color  is  obtained,  according 
to  the  quantity  used. 

Fly  Paper. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  fly  paper  in  market ;  one  is  merely 
coated  with  a  sticky  composition  which  holds  the  flies  when  they 
alight  on  it  and  keeps  them  until  they  die  of  exhaustion ;  the 
other  contains  a  veritable  poison  which  causes  death  in  a  few 
minutes  or  seconds. 

Of  the  sticky  papers,  the  best  are  coated  with  artificial  bird- 
lime, prepared  by  boiling  any  vegetable  oil  with  a  little  resin. 
Rape-seed  oil,  linseed  oil,  or  any  of  the  cheap  oils  answer  well. 
After  the  resin  and  oil  have  been  compounded  they  may  be  made 
into  a  sort  of  emulsion  with  a  little  honey  or  molasses.  The  fol- 
lowing formula  gives  good  results  :  Resin,  1  lb.  ;  raw  linseed  oil, 
1  lb. ;  molasses,  4  oz.  Melt  the  resin,  add  the  oil  little  by  little, 
and  while  still  warm  beat  up  with  the  molasses.* 

The  objection  to  the  sticky  fly-paper,  as  a  marketable  article,  is 
the  difficulty  of  packing  them  so  that  they  will  not  consolidate 
into  a  mass,  and  so  become  worthless.  The  above  material  might 
be  sold  in  pots  or  wide-mouthed  bottles,  and  be  smeared  by  the 
purchaser  on  a  stick  or  paper.  And  for  a  thick  liquid  like 
factitious  bird-lime,  pots  made  of  strawboard,  coated  on  the  inside 
with  size  or  glue,  would  answer  admirably,  and  be  very  cheap. 
But  anything  involving  trouble  on  the  part  of  the  buyer  or  user 
is  objectionable.  The  article  must  be  sold  ready  to  use  at  once 
without  any  special  preparation. 

The  poisonous  fly  papers  are  not  open  to  these  objections,  asd 
if  well  dried  will  keep  indefinitely.  Cooley  gives  the  following 
formula :  Treacle  (molasses),  honey,  or  moist  sugar,  mixed  with 
about  1  12th  of  their  weight  of  orpiment  (yellow  tersulphide  of 
arsenic.)  Paper  is  to  be  soaked  in  the  mixture,  dried  and  cut 
into  suitable  pieces,  which  are  to  be  laid  on  a  plate  containing  a 
little  water.  The  water  dissolves  the  mixture,  bringing  it  back  to 
to  the  condition  of  a  syrup,  which  the  flies  drink  with  great 
eagerness. 

A  more  efficient  poison  is  made  by  boiling  white  arsenic  in 
caustic  potash  or  soda  until  a  strong  solution  of  arseniate  of  potash 
or  soda  has  been  formed.  This  is  then  mixed  with  sugar  or 
molasses  and  used  as  the  previous  syrup.  The  advantage  of  using 
an  arseniate  of  an  alkali  is  that  it  forms  a  true  solution,  instead  of 
a  mere  syrup  through  which  a  poisonous  powder   is  diffused. 

*  A  recipe  given  in  "  Tcchno-Chemical  Receipts,"  by  Brannt,  directs  us  to  take 
"  6  parts  of  colophony ,  4  parts  of  rape-seed  oil,  and  3  of  resin."  Will  the  learned 
author  tell  us  the  difference  between  colophony  and  resin? 


FLY  TAPER.  45 

Neither  white  arsenic  nor  the  yellow  orpiment  dissolves  freely  in 
water. 

These  arsenical  preparations  are,  however,  quite  objectionable 
from  the  fact  thut  they  have  a  sweet  taste,  and  if  they  fell  into  the 
hands  of  very  young  children  tlwy  would  be  eagerly  sucked,  with 
fatal  results.  Fortunately,  there  are  other  substances  which  have 
a  very  disagreeable  taste  to  human  beings,  and  are  not  poisonous 
to  them,  and  yet  are  quite  attractive  and  fatally  poisonous  to  flies. 
Redwood's  formula  for  such  a  liquid  is  : 

Small  quassia  chips,  +  oz. ;  water,  1  pint;  boil  ten  minutes, 
strain,  and  add  4  oz.  of  molasses.  Flies  will  drink  this  with 
avidity,  and  are  soon  destroyed  by  it.  It  may  also  be  employed  to 
saturate  paper,  which  may  be  used  as  previously  directed. 

Quassia,  as  sold  in  small  quantities,  is  quite  expensive  com- 
pared with  what  it  is  in  large  amounts.  It  is  imported  in  the 
form  of  small  logs  or  billets,  and  these  have  been  used  quite 
extensively  of  late  for  the  purpose  of  turning  the  quassia  cups, 
for  which  there  has  been  such  a  demand.  The  chips  of  these 
turners  can  frequently  be  had  for  a  mere  trifle,  and  at  any  rate,  it 
would  always  pay  to  use  a  bye  product  rather  than  to  buy  the 
entire  log  and  convert  it  into  chips  or  sawdust.  Such  chips 
might  be  steeped  in  cold  water,  at  the  rate  of  two  pounds  to  the 
gallon  of  water.  They  should  remain  in  the  liquid  for  48  hours, 
and  the  chips  should  then  be  boiled  in  half  the  quantity  of  fresh 
water  for  two  or  three  hours.  The  two  liquids  should  then  be 
mixed  together,  and  2  lbs.  of  good  sugar  (which  need  not  be  quite 
white),  added  to  each  gallon,  and  the  whole  well  mixed  together 
until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  A  fair  quality  of  blotting-paper,  of 
fancy  colors,  may  now  be  cut  into  circles  of  about  five  inches  in 
diameter,  and  the  edges  may  be  scalloped,  so  as  to  give  it  a 
pretty  appearance.  These  circles  are  to  be  well  soaked  iu  the 
liquid  and  afterwards  thoroughly  dried.  One  of  them  placed  in 
a  common  dinner-plate,  and  saturated  with  water,  will  attract  a 
great  many  flies  to  their  certain  destruction. 

The  liquid  might  be  boiled  down  to  a  thick  syrup  and  sold  in 
small  bottles.  The  cost  of  the  bottles  would,  however,  amount  to 
a  large  percentage  of  the  selling  price,  and  "fly-paper"  has  now 
become  such  a  standard  article  that  it  is  improbable  that  it  could 
be  displaced  by  anything  that  was  not  very  novel  and  attractive. 

The  paper  discs  might  be  made  quite  attractive  in  appearance 
if  properly  cut,  with  neat  scalloped  edges.  This  would  require 
the  use  of  a  steel  knife  or  punch,  by  which  a  large  number  might 
be  cut  at  one  stroke  in  a  press.  Failing  this,  small  square  sheets, 
of  a  size  to  lie  on  a  common  dinner-plate,  would  probably  be  best. 
They  should  be  put  up  in  packages,  enclosed  in  cheap  envelopes, 
with  a  description  of  the  article,  full  directions  for  use,  and  a 
note  in  regard  to  the  dangerous  character  of  arsenical  poisons 
printed  on  the  back  in  neat  form,  avoiding  unnecessary  and  tawdry 
display. 


46  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

Foot  Powders. 

Many  persons  are  troubled  with  tender  feet,  and,  which  is  quite 
as  bad,  the  odor  is  frequently  exceedingly  offensive,  and  not  easily 
removed  by  ordinary  washing  or  bathing,  or  if  removed,  it  returns 
so  speedily  as  to  practically  render  ordinary  washing  ineffective. 
The  disease  is  known  as  bromidrosis.  Louis  XIV. ,  according  to 
Fragon,  suffered  from  it  to  such  a  degree  that  the  worst  courtezans 
in  Paris  fainted  away  at  the  first  whiff  of  his  perfumed  feet. 
Henry  IV.  bad  the  same  redolent  perfume,  but  this  did  not  pre- 
vent the  diplomatic  Queen  Marguerite  from  occupying  the  same 
couch  ;  and  she  pardoned  her  liege  lord's  legendary  infidelities  as 
well  as  the  loud  smell  of  his  royal  toes.  One  day  he  was  so  redo- 
lent that  Madame  de  Verneuil,  one  of  his  court  favorites,  said  to 
him  :  "  Sire,  it  is  fortunate  you  are  king  ;  without  that  your  pres- 
ence would  not  be  tolerated — you  stink  worse  than  carrion."  We 
may  remark,  en  passant,  that  the  soldiers  of  the  German  army  have 
hereditary  bromidrosis,  and  are  said  to  be  obliged  by  law  to  use  a 
deodorant  powder  of  salicylic  acid  upon  their  feet. 

Various  powders  and  washes  have  been  prepared  and  sold  for 
the  purpose  of  remedying  this  evil.  The  following  are  amongst 
the  best : 

Sub-nitrate  of  bismuth  has  been  highly  recommended.  It  is 
to  be  applied  with  slight  friction  to  the  surface,  and  if  offered  for 
sale  it  may  be  colored  and  perfumed. 

Spooner,  who  is  a  most  excellent  authority,  gives  the  following 
as  an  efficient  astringent  powder  for  sore  feet :  Sulphate  of  copper, 
1  oz .;  prepared  chalk,  4  oz.;  powdered  alum,  1  oz.;  bole,  2  oz. 
Grind  together  to  an  impalpable  powder. 

M.  Paulcke  prepares  a  mixture  of  salicylic  acid,  soap,  talc  and 
starch,  in  the  form  of  powder,  to  be  applied  to  the  feet,  which, 
whilst  rendering  them  firm,  is  said  to  induce  an  agreeable  softness, 
and  to  remove  all  unpleasant  smell  arising  from  perspiration. 

Freckles. 

These  harmless  spots  are  the  dread  of  ladies  who  pride  them- 
selves on  their  complexion,  and  consequently  an  endless  variety  of 
nostrums,  warranted  to  remove  them,  have  been  published  and 
sold.  A  most  excellent  lotion  for  removing  freckles  may  be  pre- 
pared by  mixing  one  part  of  good  Jamaica  rum  with  two  parts  of 
lemon  juicc'or  weak  vinegar. 

A  Pomade  fok  Fkfoklks  is  prepared  thus  :  Take  of  citrine 
ointment  and  oil  of  almonds,  of  each,  1  drachm;  spermaceti 
ointment,  f  oz  ;  otto  of  roses,  3  drops.  Mix  well  in  a  Wedge- 
wood  ware  mortar,  using  a  wooden  or  bone  knife. 

A  more  powerful  lotion,  but  one  which  should  he  used  only 
under  medical  advice,  is  comp 'teed  as  follows  :  Bichloride  of  mer- 
cury, 6  grains;  Hydrochloric  acid  ('pure,  ep.  gr.  1  16)  1  fl.  drachm; 
distilled  water,  \  pint.  Mix,  and  add  of  alcohol  and  rose  water,  of 
each  2  fl.  oz  ;  glycerine,  1  oz. 


FRUIT  PRESERVER— FUMIGATING  PASTILS.  47 

To  be  applied  with  the  floger9  night  and  morning,  or  oftener. 
Rowland's   Kalydor  seems    to   owe    its  efficacy  in   removing 
freckles,  to  the  same  ingredients  as  the  above  lotion. 

Fruit  and  Cider  Preserver. 

This  is  the  sulphite  of  lime  (not  the  sulphate),  and  is  used  for 
preventing  fermentation  in  cider,  wine  and  fruit.  When  used  for 
cider  and  wine  it  answers  a  very  good  purpose,  because  by  com- 
bining with  oxygen  it  forms  sulphate  of  lime,  which  sinks  to  the 
bottom,  and  does  not  mix  with  the  liquid.  But  when  U9ed  with 
fruits  or  very  thick  syrups  it  does  not  answer  so  well,  as  it  is 
difficult  to  separate  it  from  the  solid  food. 

Sulphite  of  lime,  specially  prepared  for  preserving  wine  and 
cider,  is  manufactured  by  the  Rumford  Chemical  Work9,  Provi- 
dence, R.  I  ,  in  immense  quantities,  and  sold  by  them  at  a  rate 
that  leaves  no  margin  to  the  small  manufacturer.  A  recipe  which 
merely  directs  the  use  of  their  product,  may  be  of  value  to  the 
consumer,  but  there  is  no  money  to  be  made  by  it. 

Fumigating  Pastils. 

At  one  time  these  were  in  great  request,  but  of  late  years  the 
demand  has  fallen  off.  They  possess  very  little  power,  except 
that  of  disguising  evil  odors,  audit  they  are  used  as  a  substitute 
for  more  energetic  measures,  they  may  prove  indirectly  dangerous. 
Recipes  for  their  manufacture,  with  very  extravagant  claims  as  to 
their  wondetful  health  preserving  properties,  are  frequently  offered 
for  sale.     We  therefore  give  one  or  two  of  the  best: 

The  pastils  consist  essentially  of  charcoal,  made  into  a  paste 
wilh  mucilage,  and  mixed  with  nitre  to  make  it  burn,  and  with 
perfumes  to  give  the  odor.  The  charcoal  should  be  of  the  lightest 
kind — that  from  basswood,  willow  or  alder  being  the  best.  The 
dry  ingredients  should  be  first  reduced  to  fine  powder,  and  the 
balsams  and  essential  oils  (if  any)  being  added,  the  whole  should 
be  thoroughly  and  perfectly  incorporated,  after  which  the  mixture 
should  be  beaten  to  the  consisteuce  of  a  stiJ  ductile  mass  or 
dough  with  the  mucilage.  Gum  tragacanth,  owing  to  its  greater 
thickening  and  binding  powers,  is  generally  preferred  to  gum 
arabic 

They  are  generally  made  into  small  cones  of  about  7-8'.hs  of  an 
inch  in  height,  and  half  an  inch  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and 
where  many  are  to  be  made,  a  proper  mould  is  the  best  way  of 
forming  them.  Thi9  may  be  a  mould  like  a  bullei  mould,  but 
made  of  cast-iron,  or  ev  n  some  composition  of  lead,  hardened 
with  a  mixture  of  other  metals.  Such  a  mould  is  cheaply  and 
easilv  made  by  any  mechanic. 

The  following  are  a  f>  w  favorite  formulse: 

1.  Gum  benzoin,  4  oz  ;  cascarilla,  1  oz  ;  nitre,  £  oz  ;  charcoal, 
8  oz  ;  oils  of  nutmeg  and  cloves,  of  each  £  fl;iitl  drachm;  gum 
tragacanth,  3  drachms.     Grind  the  powders  together,  add  liie  oils, 


48  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

and  having  previously  made  a  mucilage  of  the  tragacanth,  beat 
the  whole  into  a  ductile  mass,  adding,  if  necessary,  a  sufficient 
quantity  of  cold  water.  The  pastils  are  then  moulded  and  dried 
in  the  air.  The  essential  oils  may  be  omitted,  or  styrax,  balsam 
of  Peru  or  myrrh  may  be  substituted  for  them. 

2.  Paris  Formula. — Benzoin,  2  oz.;  balsam  of  tolu  and  yellow 
sandal  wood,  of  each  4  drachms;  nitre,  2  drachms ;  labdanum,  1 
drachm ;  charcoal,  6  oz.  Reduce  to  powder,  mix  thoroughly  and 
make  into  a  stiff  paste  with  gum  tragacanth.  Form  into  small 
cones  and  dry  them  in  the  air. 

3.  Formula  of  Henry  and  Guibourt. — Powdered  benzoin,  16 
parts  ;  balsam  of  tolu  and  powdered  sandal  wood,  each  4  parts  ; 
charcoal  powder,  48  parts ;  powdered  tragacanth  and  labdanum, 
each  1  part;  powdered  nitre  and  gum-arabic,  each  2  parts  ;  make 
into  a  paste  with  12  parts  cinnamon  water,  form  into  cones  and 
dry. 

4  The  following  formula  is  somewhat  complex,  but  gives  very 
fine  results  :  Take  the  charcoal  of  any  light  wood,  200  parts  ;  gum 
benzoin,  100  parts;  powdered  sandal  wood,  50  parts;  balsam  of 
tolu,  50  parts ;  Storax  (Styrax  calamita),  50  parts ;  gum  olibanum, 
50  parts ;  cascarilla  bark,  100  parts ;  cloves,  40  parts ;  cinnamon 
(Ceylon),  40  parts ;  potassium  nitrate,  75  parts.  Reduce  the 
ingiedients  to  powder,  and  mix  them  with  oil  of  Ceylon  cinnamon, 
5  parts ;  oil  of  cloves,  5  parts ;  oil  of  lavender,  5  parts ;  balsam  of 
Peru,  10  parts ;  camphor,  powdered,  1  part.  Then  add  mucilage 
of  tragacanth  sufficient  to  make  a  mass  which  is  to  be  formed  into 
conical  cylinders  about  f  to  1  inch  high,  and  ending  at  the  bottom 
in  three  projections.     Dry  them  in  a  warm  place. 

The  good  burning  qualities  of  the  pastils  depend  greatly  on 
the  completeness  of  the  mixture  and  the  moderate  compactness 
of  the  mass.  If  they  burn  too  slowly,  a  little  more  nitre  may  be 
added;  if  too  fast,  the  quantity  of  nitre  may  be  slightly  lessened. 
Animal  perfumes,  such  as  musk,  civet,  or  ambergris,  should  never 
be  used  in  pastils,  as  they  give  off  a  very  offensive  odor  in  burn- 
ng.     Yet,  strange  to  say,  they  are  sometimes  recommended. 

Furniture  Polish.— See  Polisli. 

Gall. 

The  gall  usually  employed  is  that  of  the  ox,  and  it  is  used  quite 
extensively  in  its  crude  state  by  the  scourers  of  woollen  cloth, 
clothes  renovators,  etc.  It  rapidly  extracts  grease  and  oil  from 
textile  fabrics,  and  seldom,  if  ever,  injures  the  colors.  Indeed, 
as  a  general  rule,  it  brightens  most  colors,  and  hence  with  many 
housekeepers  it  is  a  favorite  cleansing  agent  for  carpets,  dresses, 
etc.  When  used  for  such  purposes  it  is  generally  diluted  with 
water — a  pint  of  gall  being  added  to  a  pailful  of  water. 

Ox  gall  may  be  kept  indefinitely  by  mixing  it  with  a  small  pro- 
portion of  alcohol,  and  it  is  then  quite  as  efficient  as  before,  if 
not  more  so. 


GALL-GANTEINE.  49 

Purified  gall  is  used  by  artists  to  fix  chalk  and  pencil  drawings 
before  tinting  them,  and  to  remove  the  greasiness  from  ivory, 
tracing-paper,  etc.  For  this  purpose  it  is  sometimes  required  to 
be  rendered  as  colorless  as  possible.  It  has  been  found  very 
difficult  to  bleach  ox-gall  without  destroying  its  most  valuable 
properties.  Indeed,  for  many  purposes,  the  crude  gall,  simply 
mixed  with  a  little  alcohol  and  filtered,  is  found  to  be  superior  to 
any  other  preparation.  A  little  gall,  so  prepared,  mixed  with 
india-ink,  improves  greatly  both  its  flowing  and  its  indelible 
qualities.  The  quantity  used  must  be  very  small.  We  presume 
it  would  be  useful  with  other  dark  colors.  Its  deep  tint  would  be 
objectionable  when  used  with  the  lighter  colors. 

Refined  ox-gall  is  prepared  in  several  ways,  of  which  the 
following  are  the  best : 

1.  Fresh  ox  gall  is  allowed  to  repose  for  12  or  15  hours,  after 
which  the  clear  portion  is  decanted,  and  evaporated  to  the  con- 
sistence of  a  thick  syrup  by  the  heat  of  a  water  bath  ;  it  is  then 
spread  thinly  on  a  di9h,  and  exposed  in  a  warm  situation  near  the 
fire,  of*to  a  current  of  dry  air,  until  nearly  dry;  it  is,  lastly,  put 
into  wide-mouthed  bottles  or  pots,  and  carefully  tied  over  with  a 
bladder.  In  this  state  it  will  keep  for  years  in  a  cool  situation. 
For  use  a  little  is  dissolved  in  water. 

2.  Fresh  gall,  1  pint;  boil,  skim,  add  powdered  alum,  1  oz. ; 
boil  again  till  the  alum  is  dissolved,  and  when  sufficiently  cool 
pour  it  into  a  bottle,  and  loosely  cork  it  down.  In  a  similar  man- 
ner boil  and  skim  another  pint  of  gall,  add  to  it  1  oz  of  common 
salt,  and  again  boil,  cool,  and  bottle  it,  as  above.  In  three  months 
decant  the  clear  from  both  bottles,  and  mix  them  in  equal  quanti- 
ties ;  the  clear  portion  must  then  be  separated  from  the  coagulum 
by  subsidence  or  filtration. 

Ox  gall  Soap— Gall  soap,  for  the  washing  of  fine  silken  cloths 
and  ribbons,  is  prepared  in  the  following  manner :  In  a  vessel  of 
copper  1  pound  cocoanut  oil  is  heated  to  60  deg.  Fahr.,  and  A  pound 
caustic  soda  is  added,  with  constant  stirring.  In  another  vessel 
h  pound  white  Venetian  turpentine  is  heated,  and  when  quite  hot 
stirred  into  the  copper  kettle.  This  kettle  is  then  covered  and  left 
for  four  hours,  being  gently  heated,  after  which  the  fire  is  increased 
until  the  contents  are  perfectly  clear ;  then  1  pound  ox-gall  is  added. 
After  this,  sufficient  perfectly  dry  Castile  soap  is  stirred  into  the 
mixture  to  cause  the  whole  to  yield  but  little  under  the  pressure  of 
the  finger;  for  which  purpose,  from  1  to  2  pounds  of  snap  are 
required  for  the  above  quantity.  After  cooling,  the  soap  is  cut 
into  pieces.     It  is  excellent,  and  will  not  injure  the  finest  colors. 

Some  of  the  Western  slaughter-houses  would  furnish  a  tine 
field  for  the  establishment  of  a  factory  for  purified  ox  gall  and  of 
ox  gall  soap. 

Ganteine. 

This  composition  is  sold  for  cleaning  kid  gloves,  which  it  does 


50  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

very  fairly  under  most  conditious.  It  is  sometimes  improperly 
called  Saponfne.  It  is  thus  prepared :  Dissolve  3  oz  of  soap  by 
heat  in  2  oz.  of  water,  and  when  nearly  cold  add  2  oz.  of  eau  de 
Javelle,  and  1  dr.  of  water  of  ammonia;  form  a  paste,  which  is  to 
be  rubbed  over  the  glove  with  flannel  till  sufficiently  clean. 

Glass  Cutting. 

A  recipe  for  "cutting  glass  without  a  diamond"  has  often  been 
sold  for  considerable  sums — from  five  to  twenty- five  dollars  having 
to  our  knowledge  been  paid  for  the  so-called  "secret.''  It  is  no 
secret  at  all,  but  an  old  and  well-known  method,  and  consists  in  the 
use  either  of  a  pastil  or  a  red-hot  poker  or  sharp-pointed  rod  of 
iron.  The  method  has  its  uses,  though  for  cutting  flat  glass,  such 
as  window-panes,  and  for  cutting  rounds  or  ovals  out  of  flat  glass, 
the  diamond  is  the  best  tool ;  and,  if  the  operator  has  no  diamond, 
it  will  always  pay  to  carry  the  job  to  a  glazier  rather  than  waste 
time  and  make  a  poor  job  by  other  and  inferior  means.  But  in 
some  cases  the  pastil  or  the  hot  poker  is  very  convenient,  and  a 
little  practice  will  enable  the  operator  to  shape  small  rounds  or 
ovals  with  great  rapidity,  ease  and  precision.  When  bottles,  or 
flasks  are  to  be  cut,  the  diamond  is  still  the  best  tool  in  skilful 
hands;  but  ordinary  operators  will  succeed  best  with  pastils,  or  a 
red  hot  poker  with  a  pointed  end  ;  aud  we  have  never  found  any 
difficulty  in  cutting  off  broken  flasks  so  as  to  make  dishes,  or  in 
carrying  a  cut  spirally  rouud  a  long  bottle  so  as  to  cut  it  into  the 
form  of  a  corkscrew.  And,  by  the  way,  when  so  cut,  glass  exhibits 
considerable  elasticity,  and  the  spiral  may  be  elongated  like  a 
ringlet.  The  process  is  very  simple.  The  line  of  the  cut  should 
be  marked  by  chalk  or  by  pasting  a  thin  strip  of  paper  alongside 
of  it;  then  make  a  file  mark  to  commence  the  cut ;  apply  the  pastil 
or  the  hot  iron,  and  a  crack  will  start ;  and  this  crack  will  follow 
the  pastil  wherever  we  choose  to  lead  it.  In  this  way  j  its  are  easily 
made  out  of  old  bottles,  and  broken  vessels  of  different  kinds  may 
be  cut  up  into  new  forms.  Flat  gla=s  may  also  be  cut  into  the 
most  intricate  and  elegant  forms.  Strings  wet  with  turpentine, 
friction,  etc  ,  are  very  inferior  to  this  method. 

Good  pastils  for  cutting  glass  might  form  an  article  of  mer- 
chandize, and  the  following  is  the  formula  for  preparing  them  : 

1  Dissolve  100  parts  of  gum  arable  in  240  parts  of  water  and 
mix  the  solution  with  a  paste  prepared  by  grinding  40  parts  of 
powdered  gum  trau'aeanth  with  640  pans  of  hot  water  Then 
having  dissolved  20  parts  of  storax  aud  20  parts  of  berz  >in  in  90 
parts  of  alcohol,  strain  this  solution  and  add  H  to  the  mixed 
mucilage.  Finally  mix  the  whole  intimately  with  240  to  280  parts 
of  pulverized  charcoal  so  as  to  make  ihe  mass  uniform  throughout. 
The  charcoal  should  be  finely  powdered  and  we  1  Bifted.  The 
doufehy  mass  thus  formed  is  rolled  into  a  flat  cake  and  then  cut 
into  square  stripes  or  rods  which  are  rolled  between  two  boards, 
well  dusted  with  powdered  charcoal,  until  they  form  cylindrical 


GLASS  CUTTING -LIQUID  GLUE.  51 

rods  about  one-third  of  au  inch  in  diameter.  These  are  then 
allowed  to  dry  slowly,  after  which  they  are  flr  for  u««. 

2.  Dissolve  8  to  10  parts  of  pim  tragacanth  in  100  parts  of  hot 
water,  add  to  the  mixture  with  constant  stirring.  30  parts  of 
acetate  of  lead  and  75  parts  of  finely  powdered  and  sifted  charcoal. 
Form  into  rods  or  pencils  as  directed  in  the  previous  recine. 

To  use  these  pastils  take  one  and  point  it  like  a  lead  pencil ; 
set  it  on  fire  by  holding  it  in  the  flame  of  a  lamp  or  candle  and 
apply  it  as  previously  directed. 

Such  pastils  are  easily  and  cheaply  made,  and  are  very  con- 
venient when  it  is  desired  to  cut  glass  in  irregular  forms.  They 
might  be  put  up  in  neat  paper  boxes,  with  printed  directions  on 
the  cover. 

Clue,  Liquid. 

Various  attempts  have  been  made  to  produce  glue  in  a  liquid 
form  and  of  as  good  quality  as  the  glue  prepared  in  the  ordinary 
methods.  It  is  generally  conceded,  however,  that  such  an  article 
has  not  yet  been  produced.  Spalding's  glue,  out  of  which  a  for- 
tune was  said  to  have  been  made,  is  not  exactly  a  liquid,  as  it 
requires  to  be  warmed,  and  in  this  respect  resembles  carpenters' 
glue.  Indeed,  a  very  neat  little  article  of  glue,  glue  pot  and  brush 
has  been  placed  on  the  market  at  an  exceedingly  low  figure,  and  is 
really  a  capital  device. 

Spalding's  glue  was  simply  glue  dissolved  in  very  strong 
vinegar.  The  acid  has  a  tendency  to  keep  the  glue  more  liquid 
than  it  would  otherwise  have  been.  Nitric  acid  keeps  glue  in  a 
perfectly  liquid  form,  but  it  injures  its  strength,  and  besides  it  cor- 
rodes any  metals  with  which  it  may  come  in  contact.  The  follow- 
ing are  a  few  of  the  favorite  recipes  in  this  line : 

Dumouun's  Liquid  akd  Unaltbkabie  Glue.— This  is  one  of 
the  oldest  forms  and  one  of  the  best.  It  is  prepared  as  follows: 
Soak  8  oz.  of  best  glue  in  4-  pint  of  water  in  a  wide-mouthed 
bottle  and  melt  by  heating  the  bottle  in  a  water-bath.  Then 
add  slowly  2h  oz.  of  nitric  acid,  spec.  gr.  1  330,  stirring  con- 
stantly. Effervescence  takes  place  under  escape  of  nitrous  acid 
gas.  When  all  the  acid  has  been  added,  the  liquid  is  allowed 
to  cool.  Keep  it  well  corked,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use  at 
any  moment.  It  does  not  gelatinize,  or  putrefy,  or  ferment. 
It  is  applicable  to  many  domestic  uses,  such  as  mending  china, 
wood,  etc. 

An  iron  glue  pot  cannot  be  used  in  making  this  liquid  glue,  as 
the  acid  would  act  on  the  metal.  Glass  or  earthenware  must  be 
used. 

Liquid  Gluk  — Macerate  6  parts  of  glue  in  16  parts  of  water, 
uatil  itie  glue  is  swollen  and  soft.  Add  1  part  of  hydrochloric 
acid,  and  li  parts  sulphate  of  zinc,  and  let  ihe  mixture  be  kept 
for  ten  or  twelve  hours  at  a  temperature  of  68  deg.  to  70  deg  Cent. 
(154  deg.  to  158  deg.  Fahr.)    Answers  admirably  for  attaching 


52  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

labels  to  tin  and  to  glass  when  exposed  to  damp.  This  also  must 
be  prepared  and  kept  in  glass  or  earthenware  vessels. 

A  Nearly  Liquid  Glub. — A  very  strong  glue  may  be  made  by 
dissolving  4  ounces  of  glue  in  16  ounces  of  strong  acetic  acid  by 
the  aid  of  heat.  It  is  semi- solid  at  ordinary  temperatures,  but 
needs  only  to  be  warmed,  by  placing  the  vessel  containing  it  in 
hot  water  for  a  short  time,  to  be  ready  for  use. 

A  solution  of  shellac  in  alcohol  is  sometimes  sold  for  liquid 
glue,  but  it  has  not  the  properties  of  real  glue. 

Mouth  Glue,  Pocket  Mucilage. — At  one  time  this  article  was 
in  great  demand,  but  the  almost  universal  use  of  liquid  mucilage, 
sold  in  bottles,  has  driven  it  out  of  the  market.  It  is  put  up  in 
cakes,  which  on  being  moistened  either  with  water  or  in  the 
mouth,  soften  sufficiently  to  coat  any  surface  on  which  they  are 
rubbed  with  a  thin  coat  of  glue  which  adheres  quite  firmly.  For 
some  purposes  they  are  very  convenient,  and  if  properly  presented 
and  advertised  would  no  doubt  even  now  command  a  good  sale. 
The  recipes  are  old  and  well  known,  and  maybe  found  in  any  good 
book  of  recipes,  though  often  sold  as  "secrets.''  We  give  one  or 
two  of  the  best.  If  it  be  desired  to  make  them  still  softer,  substi- 
tute a  little  glycerine  for  a  portion  of  the  sugar : 

1.  Soak  4  oz.  best  glue  and  1  oz.  isinglass  in  water  until  soft. 
Pour  off  the  superfluous  water,  and  add  1  oz.  of  brown  sugar. 
Melt  the  whole  together  with  a  gentle  heat,  and  allow  it  to 
evaporate  until  quite  thick.  Pour  into  a  flat-bottomed  dish  that 
is  quite  cold ;  if  placed  on  ice,  so  much  the  better,  as  it  will  pre- 
vent the  glue  sticking  to  it.     When  solid,  cut  into  cakes. 

2.  Glue,  5  oz  ;  sugar,  1  oz.  ;  dissolved  in  water,  boiled  down, 
poured  into  moulds  and  dried. 

Glycerine  Balsam. 

This  is  a  very  excellent  preparation  for  softening  and  whiten- 
ing the  skin  and  for  preventing  and  removing  chaps  and  chilblains. 
It  is  an  admirable  substitute  for  lip  salve,  and  for  roughness  and 
chaps  of  the  hands  during  winter  it  has  perhaps  no  equal. 
For  the  latter  purpose  a  small  quantity  should  be  applied  at  bed 
time  and  well  rubbed  in,  the  friction  being  continued  until  the 
surface  of  the  skin  appears  dry,  or  nearly  so.  The  following  is  the 
most  approved  formula:  Melt  together,  by  a  gentle  heat,  in  a 
glazed  earthen  vessel,  white  wax,  1  ounce;  spermaceti,  2  ounces; 
oil  of  almonds,  i  pint.  When  quite  liquid,  add  glycerine,  3 
ounces;  balsam  of  Peru,  ^  ounce.  Stir  the  mixture  until  nearly 
cold,  and  then  pour  it  into  pots  or  china  or  glazed  earthenware 
boxes. 

Glycerine  Jelly. — Used  as  an  application  to  chaps  and  rough- 
ened parts  of  the  skin.  It  may  be  made  of  pure  glycerine  thick- 
ened with  tragacanth  powder,  and  scented  with  otto  of  roses. 
An  imitation  may  be  prepared  in  the  following  manner  (Pharm. 


GLYCERINE  BALSAM— GBEASB  EXTRACTOR.  53 

Journal):  Mix  good  soft  soap  h  dr.  intimately  with  purified  honey 
2  drs.,  gradually  add  pale  olive  oil  5  oz  ,  stirring  without  inter- 
mission until  all  is  taken  up.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  mix  in 
the  oil  too  fast.     Finally,  perfume  as  desired. 

Another  formula  is  as  follows:  Transparent  soap,  1  oz.;  water, 
4oz.;  glycerine,  24  oz.  Dissolve  the  soup  in  the  water  by  heat, 
adding  5  oz  of  the  glycerine.  When  dissolved  add  remaining  19 
oz.  of  glycerine  and  sufficient  water  to  make  the  whole  weight  29 
oz.  When  nearly  cold  add  any  suitable  perfume,  and  pour  into  a 
glass  vessel  to  get  cold.     Put  up  in  boxes  like  "Camphor  Ice." 

Grease  Extractor. 

Under  various  names,  such  as  "Scouring  Drops,"  "Lightning 
Renovators,"  etc.,  various  compounds  have  been  extensively  sold 
for  removing  grease-spots  and  other  stains,  and,  of  course,  the 
recipes  for  these  articles  are  in  great  demand.  Almost  any  of 
them  will  remove  a  fresh  grease-spot ;  very  few  of  them  will  take 
out  an  old  paint  stain  that  has  sunk  well  into  the  fabric.  The 
easiest  thing  to  remove  is  the  grease  of  a  tallow  candle,  and  this  is 
the  article  which  is  generally  selected  for  exhibition  by  those  who 
sell  these  things  at  fairs  and  on  street  corners. 

Balls  kok  Removing  Grease  and  Paint  Spots  krom  Cloth,  kto. 
— Fuller's  earth,  30  parts ;  French  chalk,  1  part ;  yellow  soap,  20 
parts;  pearlash,  15  parts.  Make  into  a  paste  with  spirits  of  tur- 
pentine, and  give  it  a  slight  c  dor  with  a  little  yellow  ochre,  and 
then  cut  it  iuto  cakes.  This  form,  omitting  the  French  chalk,  is 
that  which  is  so  very  generally  sold  about  the  streets. 

Scouring  Dbops  fok  Removing  Grease. — 1.  Alcohol  (95  p.c), 
6  oz  ;  camphor,  2  oz.:  rectified  essence  of  lemon,  8  oz. 

2.  Camphine,  3  oz.;  essence  of  lemon,  1  oz.;  mix.  Some  direct 
them  to  be  distilled  together. 

3.  French.  Camphine,  8  oz.  ;  pure  alcohol,  1  oz. ;  sulphuric 
ether,  1  oz  ;  essence  of  lemon,  1  dr. 

4.  Spirit  of  wine,  a  pint;  white  soap,  3  oz. ;  ox-gall,  3  oz.  ; 
essence  of  lemon,  {  oz. 

Lightning  Renovator. —Aqua  ammonia,  2  oz.;  soft  water,  1 
qt;  saltpetre,  1  tea-spoon;  variegated  shaving  soap,  1  oz  ,  finely 
shaved  or  scraped ;  mix  all,  shake  well,  and  it  will  be  a  little 
better  to  stand  a  few  hours  or  days  before  using,  which  gives  the 
soap  a  chance  to  dissolve. 

Directions. — Pour  upon  the  place  a  sufficient  amount  to  well 
cover  any  grease  or  oil  which  may  get  spilled  or  daubed  upon 
coats,  pants,  carpets,  etc  ,  sponging  and  rubbing  well,  and  apply- 
ing again  if  necessary  to  saponify  the  grease  in  the  garment ;  then 
wash  off  with  clear  cold  water. 

The  saltpetre  might,  we  think,  be  safely  omitted.  For  an 
article  for  sale,  put  up  in  bottles,  the  quantity  of  water  might  be 
reduced  to  just  the  quantity  required  to  make  a  clear  solution  of 


U  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

the  soap,  and  the  directions  should  state  that  a  little  may  be 
poured  into  a  tea-cup  and  mixed  with  four  times  its  bulk  of 
water. 

Another  very  excellent  renovator  consists  of  water,  2  quarts ; 
washing  soda,  |  lb.;  alcohol,  1  pint;  one  ox  gall.  Dissolve  the 
soda  in  the  water,  allow  it  to  stand,  and  pour  off  the  clear  liquid. 
Mix  the  gall  thoroughly  with  the  alcohol,  aud  add  to  it  the  solution 
of  soda,  stirring  constantly.     Bottle  securely. 

Gut,  Silkworm 

The  raising  of  silkworms  has  recently  become,  in  this  country, 
a  favorite  pursuit  with  amateurs.  The  following  method  of  util- 
izing these  interesting  insects  and  of  producing  an  article  that  will 
always  be  in  considerable  demand  cannot  fail  to  be  of  value  to 
many  of  our  readers. 

To  manufacture  fine  gut  for  angling  take  the  best  and  largest 
silkworms  you  can  procure,  just  when  they  are  about  to  spin,  and 
which  may  be  known  by  their  refusing  to  eat,  having  a  fine  silk 
thread  hanging  from  their  mouths.  The  worms  must  first  be 
thrown  into  strong  vinegar,  and  kept  there  covered  close  for  twelve 
hours,  if  the  summer  be  warm  ;  or  fifteen  hours  in  cooler  weather; 
when  taken  out,  they  must  be  pulled  asunder,  and  you  will  see  two 
transparent  guts  of  a  greenish  yellow  color,  as  thick  as  a  small 
straw,  bent  double,  the  rest  of  the  inside  resembling  boiled  spin- 
ach ;  you  can  make  no  mistake.  If  you  find  the  guts  soft,  or  break 
upon  stretching  them,  you  must  let  them  lie  longer  in  the  vinegar; 
when  fit  to  draw  out,  stretch  it  gently  with  both  hands,  till  of  a 
proper  length,  or  nearly  so.  The  gut  drawn  out  must  be  fastened 
on  a  thin  piece  of  board,  by  putting  each  end  in  a  slit  made  at  the 
ends  of  the  board.     It  is  now  to  be  placed  in  the  sun  to  dry. 

It  would  seem  that  the  character  of  the  vinegar  has  a  great 
influence  upon  the  quality  of  the  product.  It  must  be  pure  and 
strong.  That  made  from  grape  wine  seems  to  succeed  best,  but 
further  experiment  is  needed  in  this  direction. 

Hair,  Preparations  for 

The  hair  is  such  an  important  feature  in  the  personal  appear- 
ance of  every  man  and  woman,  that  preparations  calculated  to  add 
to  its  good  looks  will  always  command  a  market ;  and  if  they  are 
well  advertised,  they  will  probably  have  au  extensive  sale,  whether 
they  are  good  for  anything  or  not.  As  an  example  of  this  fact  we 
may  refer  to  Rowland's  Macassar  Oil,  of  which  Cooley  says : 
"I  have,  at  different  times,  tried  it  myself  as  a  hair  cosmetic,  and 
have  known  others  do  the  same,  but  its  pretended  effi  cts  were  all 
moonshine.  It  is  undoubtedly  a  good,  nicely-scented  hair  oil, 
pleasant  in  use,  and  elegantly  'put  up,'  and  that  is  all  that  can  be 
said  in  its  favor,  except  the  agreeable  fact,  to  its  proprietors,  that 
it  has  made  their  fortunes." 

Preparations  for  use  on  the  hair  may  be  divided  into  four  classes : 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  HAIR.  55 

1.  Pomades,  oila  and  fixatures  for  improving  its  general  appear- 
ance ;  2  Preparations  which  tend  to  promote  the  growth  of  the 
hair;  8.  i  lair  dyes;  4.  Depilatories,  or  preparations  for  removing 
superfluous  hair. 

Pomades  and  hair  oils  are  manufactured  in  almost  infinite 
variety  of  name  and  appearance,  but  they  all  consist  essentially  of 
some  grease  or  oil,  colored  and  perfumed.  The  fatty  matter  that 
is  used  should  be  selected  for  its  non  liability  to  become  rancid; 
it  may  be  colored  red  with  alkanet  root,  a  rich  yellow  by  the  addi- 
tion of  a  little  palin  oil,  or  green  by  means  of  spinach  or  any  other 
green  vegetable;  and  it  may  be  perfumed  according  to  taste. 
Further  than  this  there  is  little  to  be  said;  the  recipes  number 
thousands,  but  they  all  consist  of  slight  changes  in  a  standard 
formula.  Cooley  gives  the  following  formula  for  Macassar  Oil: 
Castor  oil,  reddened  with  alkanet  root,  1  pint;  alcohol,  95  per  ct., 
£  pint ;  oil  of  nut  meg,  £  fi  drachm  ;  oils  of  rosemary  and  origanum, 
each  15  drops;  Neroh,  10  drops:  essence  of  musk,  4  or  5  drops ; 
otto  of  roses,  20  grains.  Mix,  agitate  for  some  time,  and  in  a  week 
decant  and  separate  the  clear  portion  from  the  rest,  if  necessary. 
The  odor  of  the  otto  must  perceptibly  predominate.  Should  the 
ingredients  not  mix  thoroughly  on  brisk  agitation,  place  the  bottle, 
corked  tight,  in  a  little  warm  water  for  a  short  time,  and  then 
agitate  it,  cautiously  at  first,  until  cold. 

Fixature,  or  baudoline,  is  simply  the  jelly  of  carrigeen  moss, 
quince  seed  or  gum  arabic.  perfumed,  and  sometimes  colored. 

Formu'se  for  preparations  for  increasing  the  growth  of  the  hair 
are  great  favorites  with  the  vendors  of  such  things.  A  boy,  whose 
beard  is  just  beginning  to  "sprout,"  and  who  wishes  to  "sport" 
an  elegant  moustache,  will  rather  give  a  dollar  to  some  unknown 
advertiser  for  a  recipe  which  he  can  make  up  himself  than  pay  25 
cents  to  an  apothecary  for  the  preparation  itself,  because  in  the 
latter  case  he  runs  the  risk  of  being  joked  or  laughed  at.  Conse- 
quently, we  find  that  recipes  for  making  hair  grow  on  the  face 
command  a  very  extensive  sale ;  and  the  ques'ion  naturally  arises  : 
Are  there  any  preparations  which  will  really  have  this  effect? 

The  question  is  one  that  cannot  be  answered  with  a  simple  yes 
or  no.  The  result  will  depend  upon  the  special  conditions  of  the 
case.  If  the  hair  has  fallen  out  from  old  age  and  the  hair  follicles 
are  dead,  no  preparation  wiil  renew  them;  and  it  has  been  said 
that  the  most  sublime  instance  of  faith  is  to  be  seen  when  a  bald 
man  is  found  buying  from  a  bald  barber  a  bottle  of  stuff  "warranted 
to  make  the  hair  grow  under  any  conditions."  But  if  the  bair  on 
the  lip  of  a  boy  is  ready  to  start,  or  if  the  bair  of  the  heart  has  been 
lost  from  some  temporary  cause,  there  are  many  preparations  which 
will  hasten  its  growth  ;  and  when  the  stuff  is  applied  at  the  same 
time  that  Nature  herself  is  vigorously  at  work,  the  growth  is  often 
quite  sudden  and  rapid,  and  the  preparation  gets  credit  for  doiog 
that  which  would  have  been  done  almost  as  well  without  it  But 
as  one  success,  in  such  cases,  will  attract  more  attention  than  a 


56  TRADE  SECEETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

hundred  failures,  almost  any  preparation  sold  for  this  purpose  is 
sure  to  acquire  considerable  reputation. 

The  agents  which  in  almost  every  case  produce  any  noticeable 
results  are  stimulants  or  irritants,  such  as  oil  of  cloves,  origanum 
or  cassia,  cantharides  and  Croton  oil.  The  more  irritant  essential 
oils  have  long  been  favorite  additions  to  hair  oils ;  cantharides 
have  been  recommended  by  no  less  authorities  than  Dupuytren 
and  Erasmus  Wilson,  and  Croton  oil  has  recently  been  recom- 
mended a3  the  most  efficient  of  all.  Great  care  must  of  course  be 
taken  to  avoid  anything  like  excessive  action  on  the  part  of  these 
irritants,  or  the  desired  result  will  be  prevented  instead  of  being 
promoted.  If  the  parts  to  which  the  "hair  restorative"  is  applied 
be  blistered  instead  of  being  merely  stimulated,  the  hair-roots  will 
be  injured,  so  that  even  the  hair  then  present,  if  any,  will  fall  off. 

The  following  are  the  formulce  usually  sold  for  the  preparation 
of  hair  restoratives  under  various  names : 

Ddpuytrkn's  Pomade. — This  is  the  most  celebrated  of  all,  and 
the  following  is  the  original  formula :  Take  of  prepared  beef- 
marrow,  12  oz  ;  melt  by  the  aid  of  a  gentle  heat,  and  add  of  Baume 
Nerval,  4  oz  ;  balsam  of  Peru  and  oil  of  almonds,  of  each  3  oz.  Mix 
thoroughly,  and  add  of  alcoholic  extract  of  cantharides,  36  grains, 
dissolved  in  3  fluid  drachms  of  rectified  spirit.  Stir  the  mass  until 
it  concretes.  It  is  said  that  in  some  cases  Dupuytren  was  in  the 
habit  of  doubling  and  even  trebling  the  proportion  of  the  extract  of 
cantharides;  but  the  caution  previously  given  must  be  observed. 
Dupuytren's  Pomade  is  held  in  high  esteem  on  the  Continent  of 
Europe  as  a  hair  cosmetic. 

The  Baume  Nerval  is  a  noted  ointment  in  French  pharmacy, 
and  is  thus  prepared :  Expressed  oil  of  mace  and  prepared 
ox-marrow,  of  each  4  oz.,  melted  together  by  a  gentle  heat;  oil  of 
rosemary,  2  drachms ;  oil  of  cloves,  1  drachm  ;  camphor,  1  drachm ; 
balsam  of  tolu,  2  drachms.  The  last  two  are  to  be  dissolved  in 
4  fluid  drachms  of  alcohol,  and  added  to  the  other  ingredients,  the 
whole  being  stirred  until  cold. 

Cazenavb's  Pomade  is  similar,  but  not  so  complicated  ;  as  the 
cantharides  are  the  really  active  ingredient,  it  is  probably  quite 
as  good.  The  formula  is  beef-marrow,  4  oz.;  tincture  of  can- 
tharides (Paris  codex),  \  fluid  oz  ;  cinnamon,  coarsely  powdtred, 
£  oz.  Melt  them  together  by  the  heat  of  a  water-bath  ;  stir  until 
the  spirit  in  the  tincture  has  evaporated  ;  decant  the  clear  portion, 
and  again  stir  until  the  mass  concretes.  It  is  cheaper  and  more 
convenient  to  omit  the  powdered  cinuamon  and  to  strongly  scent 
with  oil  of  cinnamon  (or  of  cassia)  after  the  removal  of  the  vessel 
from  the  bath.  Dr.  Cattell  scents  it  with  the  oils  of  origanum  and 
bergamot ;  and  others  employ  the  oils  of  nutmeg  and  lavender  for 
the  purpose.  It  is  said  to  be  quite  efficient  in  cases  of  weak  hair 
and  remediable  baldness.  It  is  ordered  to  be  used  night  and 
morning,  the  head  being  washed  with  soap  and  water,  and  after- 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  HAIR.  57 

wards  with  salt  and  water  and  wiped  dry  each  time  before  apply- 
ing it,  or  at  least  once  a  day. 

Iodine  has  also  been  used  as  an  agent  for  promoting  the  growth 
of  hair,  and  "  Ioduretted  Pomade  "  is  a  favorite  prescription  with 
some.  It  is  thus  made  :  Take  of  iodine  and  iodide  of  potassium, 
each  1  drachm  ;  alcohol,  2  fluid  drachms ;  rub  them  well  together, 
and  add  of  lard,  £  lb.,  and  mix  thoroughly.  It  must  be  kept  in 
well-closed  glass  or  porcelain  vessels,  and  nothing  metallic  must 
touch  it. 

Croton  oil,  one  of  the  latest  of  the  remedies  for  baldness,  is 
employed  by  simply  adding  it  to  oil  or  pomade,  and  stirring  or 
agitating  the  two  together  until  admixture  or  solution  be  complete. 
The  formula  adopted  by  the  eminent  French  physician  who  intro- 
duced this  remedy,  and  who  speaks  in  the  most  confident  and 
enthusiastic  way  of  the  success  attending  its  use,  is  this  :  Take  of 
Croton  oil,  12  drops  ;  oil  of  almonds,  4  drachms.  Mix.  A  little  is 
to  be  well  rubbed  on  the  scalp  twice  a  day,  and  the  part  is  to  be 
kept  covered  with  a  waterproof  cap.  We  are  assured  that  soft 
down  will  appear  in  three  weeks.  Cooley  says  that  he  has  tried  a 
number  of  experiments  with  Croton  oil,  thus  used,  in  partial  loss 
of  hair  and  baldness,  and  is  compelled  to  bear  testimony  to  its 
efficacy  in  several  apparently  hopeless  cases  in  which  even  can- 
tharadine  had  failed. 

If  the  recipes  for  pomades  and  oils  are  "numberless,"  the 
same  may  also  be  said  of  dyes.  These  dyes  vary  in  composition, 
from  common  writing  ink  and  marking-ink  to  leaden  combs  and 
various  preparations  of  lead.  All  these  are  highly  injurious  to  the 
health,  and  their  manufacture  and  sale  should  never  be  under- 
taken under  any  circumstances  whatever.  Dyes  containing  lead 
or  silver  are  often  sold  as  "purely  vegetable"  dyes,  and  the 
deluded  users  are  attacked  with  paralysis  and  various  ailments 
whose  cause  they  cannot  trace.  No  punishment  is  too  great  for 
such  frauds. 

Of  the  really  vegetable  dyes  there  are  two  which  are  quite  effi- 
cient and  entirely  harmless.  One  is  the  fluid  obtained  from  the 
cashew  nut,  or  anacardium  occldentale,  and  the  other  is  pyrogallic 
acid.  As  the  acid,  when  used  for  a  dye,  does  not  require  purifica- 
tion, it  may  be  used  in  its  crude  state  as  obtained  by  the  distilla- 
tion of  coarsely  powdered  Aleppo  galls.  Of  such  acid  take  1  oz.; 
of  hot  distilled  water,  6  oz  ;  dissolve  the  acid  in  the  water,  and 
when  cool  add  3  fluid  oz.  of  alcohol. 

Depilatories  or  preparations  for  renewing  the  hair  are  never  in 
such  demand  as  to  constitute  a  merchantable  article.  When  such 
things  are  needed  they  are  in  general  prepared  by  the  druggist 
from  the  ordinary  and  well-known  formulae.  Of  late  it  has  been 
discovered  that  one  of  the  most  efficient  means  of  destroying  hair 
on  parts  where  it  is  not  wanted  is  electricity. 


58      TEADE  SECEETS  AND  PEIVATE  RECIPES. 

Harness-Dressing— Harness  Polish. 

In  the  recipes  that  are  sold  for  these  preparations  great  errors 
are  committed,  and  much  evil  done  by  the  recommendation  of 
articles  that  do  positive  damage  to  harness  leather.  Therefore,  we 
trust  that  those  who  undertake  to  manufacture  these  articles  will 
carefully  study  the  subject  and  offer  nothing  but  that  which  is  of 
real  excellence. 

There  are  two  very  distinct  parts  of  all  harness,  and  each 
requires,  or,  at  least,  will  bear  very  distinct  treatment.  Those 
parts  which  require  to  be  pliable  and  soft  should  never  be  dressed 
with  shellac  varnishes  or  drying  oils,  as  all  such  compounds  tend 
to  make  the  leather  hard  in  a  short  time,  so  that  it  soon  cracks  and 
becomes  weak.  There  are  some  parts,  however,  such  as  the 
saddles,  blinders,  etc  ,  which  are  never  expected  to  bend.  Var- 
nish does  not  hurt  these  parts,  but,  on  the  contrary,  greatly 
improves  their  appearance. 

The  government  harness  dressing  is  said  to  be  prepared  as 
follows :  One  gallon  of  neatsfoot  oil,  two  pounds  of  Bayberry 
tallow,  two  pounds  beeswax,  two  pounds  of  beef  tallow.  Put  the 
above  in  a  pan  over  a  moderate  fire.  When  thoroughly  dissolved 
add  two  quarts  of  castor  oil,  then  while  on  the  fire  stir  in  one 
ounce  of  lampblack.  Mix  well,  and  strain  through  a  fine  cloth  to 
remove  sediment;  let  cool. 

A  composition  which  not  only  softens  the  harness  but  blackens 
it  at  the  same  time,  is  made  as  follows  :  Put  into  a  glazed  pipkin  2 
oz.  of  black  resin;  place  it  on  a  gentle  fire;  when  melted,  add  3 
cz.  of  beeswax.  When  this  is  melted,  take  it  from  the  fire,  add  | 
oz.  of  floe  lampblack,  and  i  dr.  of  Prussian  blue  in  fine  powder; 
stir  them  so  as  to  be  perfectly  mixed,  and  add  sufficient  spirits  of 
turpentine  to  form  a  thin  paste  ;  let  it  cool.  To  use  it  appiy  a  coat 
with  a  piece  of  linen  rag  pretty  evenly  all  over  the  harness  ;  then 
take  a  soft  polishing  brush  and  brush  it  over,  so  as  to  obtain  a 
bright  surface. 

Blacking  for  Harness. — Molasses,  £  lb.,  lampblack,  1  oz  ; 
yeast,  a  spoonful;  sugar  candy,  olive  oil,  gum  tragacanth  and 
isinglass,  each  1  cz  :  and  the  gall  of  an  ox.  Mix  with  two  pints 
of  stale  beer,  and  let  it  stand  before  the  fire  for  an  hour. 

The  following  formula  has  been  frequently  sold  and  repeatedly 
republished,  and  is  a  good  example  of  the  ordinary  defective  direc- 
tions for  preparing  technical  compositions.  In  compounding  this 
blacking,  the  isinglass  should  be  softened  in  part  of  the  water,  and 
the  gum  dissolved  in  another  part,  before  any  mixture  is  attempted. 
Then  to  the  hot  solution  of  these,  add  the  other  ingredients,  mix- 
ing tbem  in  thoroughly.  It  does  not  seem  to  us,  however,  that  the 
resulting  product  would  be  of  great  value:  Molasses,  8  parts; 
lampblack,  1 ;  sweet  oil,  1 ;  gum-arabic,  1  ;  isinglass,  1 ;  water, 
32.    Apply  heat  to  the  whole ;  when  cold,  add  1  oz.  spirits  of 


HARNESS  DRESSING  AND  POLISH-HONEY.  59 

wine,  and  apply  with  sponge.     If  it  should  get  hard,  place  the 
bottle  in  warm  water  a  short  time 

IIaknkss  LACQnKK. — Dissolve  40  parts  of  shellac,  10  parts  of 
Saodarac  and  5  parts  of  mastic  in  500  parts  of  alcohol  To  pre- 
vent :he  lacquer  from  becoming  brittle,  add  to  the  solution  21  to 
30  p\rts  of  V  n'ce  turpentine,  aud  finally  sufficient  aniline  black 
(nigrosine)  dissolved  ia  ale  >hol.  This  gives  a  beautiful  black 
polish,  and  may  be  s-ifely  used  on  the  saddles,  blinders  and  other 
parts  which  are  not  subject  to  bending  and  strain. 

Honey. 

The  great  improvements  made  in  bee  culture,  during  recent 
years,  have  enabled  bee  keepers  to  produce  honey  at  such  a  cheap 
rate  that  all  kinds  of  artificial  or  imitation  honey  are  at  a  discount, 
except  perhaps  the  cheap  stuff  known  as  glucose  This  can  be 
made  at  such  a  cheap  rate  that  it  has  driven  every  other  substitute 
out  of  the  market.  Notwithstanding  the  fact  that  the  "dura 
illia"  of  certain  college  professors,  have  successfully  enabled  them 
to  resist  any  bad  influences  from  glucose,  it  is  a  fact  that  the 
average  glucose  found  in  market  is  not  adapted  to  all  digestive 
organs,  aud  the  Bale  of  any  sueh  stuff,  either  as  honey  or  as  an 
adulterant  of  pure  honey,  is  to  be  condemned.  The  only  substi- 
tute for  pure  honey  that  can  be  permitted  is  that  recommended  by 
Lang9troth,  the  father  of  modern  bee  keeping,  and  consists  simply 
in  the  dilution  of  certain  kinds  of  strong  honey  by  mixture  with 
pure  syrup.  Many  varieties  of  honey  are  so  strong  and  pungent 
that  they  cannot  be  endured  by  persons  of  delicate  tastes  and 
stomachs,  but  when  diluted  they  form  a  very  delicious  article,  just 
as  a  little  flavoring  material  is  a  great  improvement  to  cakes  aud 
puddings,  but  woud  be  unendurable  if  taken  in  its  pure  state. 

The  following  are  the  usual  recipes  for  '•  making  "  honey.  The 
first  is  simply  a  diluted  honey,  and  is  compounded  thus  : 

Good  common  sugar,  5  lbs  ;  water,  2  ibs.;  bring  gradually  to  a 
boil,  skimming  when  cool ;  add  1  lb.  bees'  honey  aud  4  drops 
essence  of  peppermint.  If  you  desire  a  better  article,  use  white 
sugar,  and  h  lb  less  water,  £  lb.  more  honey. 

The  next  is  sugar-syrup,  flivored  and  perfumed:  Common 
sugar,  4  lbs.;  water  1  pint;  let  them  come  to  a  boil,  and  skim. 
Then  add  pulverized  alum,  \  oz  ;  remove  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in 
cream  of-tartar,  ^  oz  ,  aud  water,  or  extract  of  rose,  1  tablespoonful, 
and  it  is  fit  for  use. 

The  followiug  is  more  complicated :  White  or  very  light-colored 
sugar,  10  lbs  ;  water,  3  lbs.;  cream  tartar,  20  oz.;  strong  vinegar,  2 
tablespoonfuls;  white  of  an  egg  well  beaten;  bees'  honey,  £  lb.; 
Lubin's  extract  of  honeysuckle,  10  drops.  Put  on  the  sugar  and 
water  in  a  suitable  kettle  ou  the  fire  ;  when  lukewarm  stir  in  the 
cream  tartar  and  vinegar;  add  the  egg;  when  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved put  in  the  honey  and  stir  till  it  comes  to  a  boil ;  take  it  off, 
let  it  stand  a  few  minutes  ;  strain,  then  add  the  extract  of  honey- 
suckle last ;  stand  over  night,  and  it  is  ready  for  use. 


60  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECDPES. 

Hyacinths,  Artificial. 

It  is  said  that  a  very  pleasant  perfume,  having  the  odor  of  hya- 
cinths, may  be  prepared  from  oil  of  turpentine  by  leaving  it  for  a 
long  time  in  contact  with  a  mixture  of  nitric  acid  and  alcohol. 
Crystals  of  terpine  form.  By  boiling  an  aqueous  solution  of 
terpine  with  a  small  quantity  of  sulphuric  or  other  acid,  terpinol  is 
formed,  and  may  be  separated  by  distillation.  It  has  the  odor  of 
hyacynths. 

Ink. 

Recipes  for  the  manufacture  of  ink  seem  to  be  great  favorites 
with  those  who  deal  in  "formulae."  The  quantity  of  ink  that  is 
consumed  is  something  wonderful,  and  as  it  can  be  easily  manu- 
factured, on  even  a  very  small  scale,  it  offers  strong  temptations 
to  embryo  manufacturers,  very  few  of  whom  succeed,  however. 
There  are  quite  a  number  of  very  large  ink  factories  in  this  coun- 
try; these  establishments  turnout  enormous  quantities  at  a  very 
small  cost  per  gallon,  and  they  employ  the  most  energetic  and 
tempting  methods  of  inducing  the  public  to  buy  their  wares.  That 
there  is  still  room  is,  however,  probably  true,  but  to  those  who 
select  this  branch  for  their  special  field  we  would  recommend  a 
careful  perusal  of  the  principles  laid  down  in  our  Introduction. 

One  of  the  largest  items  of  expense  in  the  conduct  of  an  ink 
business  is  that  of  selling.  Here  the  small  manufacturer  has  the 
advantage,  for  if  his  wares  are  put  up  in  a  fairly  attractive  man- 
ner he  may  by  personal  exertions  get  rid  of  quite  a  quantity  of  his 
goods,  and  thus  make  a  profit  out  of  this  part  of  the  business. 
But  the  whole  concern  must  be  conducted  with  the  greatest 
economy.  The  materials  must  be  purchased  at  the  lowest  whole- 
sale price,  the  cheapest  labor  must  be  employed  for  every  depart- 
ment that  admits  of  it,  and  the  refuse  which  would  ordinarily  go 
to  waste  must  be  utilized  as  far  as  possible.  Thus,  the  dregs  of 
ordinary  black  ink,  which  many  persons  would  throw  away, 
should  be  thoroughly  ground  up,  mixed  with  a  suitable  liquid, 
packed  in  the  cheapest  kind  of  packages,  and  sold  for  "  marking 
ink  "  — that  is,  ink  for  marking  boxes  and  bales.  For  such  ink 
there  is  always  a  good  demand,  and  the  packages  are  generally  of 
fair  size. 

One  of  the  heaviest  items  of  expense  is  the  cost  of  packages  or 
bottles,  and  it  will  only  be  by  careful  examination  and  extended 
inquiry  that  this  expense  can  be  kept  within  proper  limits.  Just 
the  kind  of  bottle  or  vessel  to  use,  and  where  to  get  it,  are  ques- 
tions which  will  repay  a  good  deal  of  time  and  inquiry  on  the  part 
of  the  manufacturer. 

The  recipes  that  have  been  published  for  making  ink  are  so 
numerous  that  they  would  fill  a  good-sized  volume.  The  follow- 
ing are  a  few  of  the  best.     The  reader  who  desires  to  make  a 


INK.  CI 

further  study  of  the  subject  would  do  well  to  consult  Spon's 
"Workshop  Receipts"  (Second  Series.) 

In  the  recipes  generally  given  for  making  ink,  it  is  recom- 
mended to  boil  the  ingredients.  A  much  better  plan  is  to  powder 
the  galls  and  macerate  them  in  cold  water.  By  this  latter  process 
more  time  is  of  course  necessary  to  make  it;  but  then  the  ink  is 
very  superior,  and  entirely  free  from  extractive  matter  which  has 
no  inky  quality,  and  which  only  tends  to  clog  the  pen  and  to  turn 
the  ink  ropy  and  mouldy. 

Most  inks,  especially  those  made  with  iron  and  galls,  are  liable 
to  mould  and  decompose.  The  formation  of  mould  may,  to  a  cer- 
tain extent,  be  prevented  by  the  use  of  creosote,  carbolic  acid,  or 
cloves,  and  most  of  the  better  class  of  inks  in  market  are  pre- 
pared so  as  to  resist  this  evil. 

Black  Ink. — 1.  In  1  gallon  of  water  macerate  1  lb.  of  finely 
powdered  Aleppo  galls  for  two  weeks,  and  strain  off  the  liquid. 
Dissolve  5\  oz.  sulphate  of  iron  and  5  oz.  gum-arabic  in  as  little- 
water  as  ie  necessary,  and  mix  the  two  liquids  with  constant  stir- 
ring. Keep  in  a  tall  bottle,  allow  it  to  settle  for  some  days,  and  it 
will  be  ready  for  use. 

2.  Take  gall-nuts,  broken,  1  lb.  ;  sulphate  of  iron,  \  lb  ;  gum 
acacia  and  sugar  candy,  of  each  %  lb.  ;  water,  3  quarts.  Place  the 
whole  of  these  ingredients  in  a  vessel  where  they  can  be  agitated 
once  a  day  ;  after  standing  for  a  fortnight  or  three  weeks  the  ink 
is  ready  for  use.  Logwood  and  similar  materials  are  often  advised 
to  be  used  in  conjunction  with  the  gall-cuts,  but  they  serve  no 
good  purpose  unless  it  be  to  make  a  cheaper  article,  which  fades 
rapidly. 

3.  It  is  said  that  the  juice  of  elderberries,  to  which  sulphate  of 
iron  has  been  added,  makes  a  good  ink.  The  best  formula  is  said 
to  be  12£  pints  juice  and  £  oz.  each  sulphate  of  iron  and  crude 
pyroligneous  acid.  Such  an  ink  would  probably  attack  steel  pens. 
The  materials  are,  however,  plentiful  and  cheap. 

Rungk's  Black  Ink. — Runge,  in  1848,  discovered  that  a  dilute 
solution  of  the  coloring  matter  of  logwood,  to  which  had  been 
added  a  small  quantity  of  neutral  chromate  of  potassium,  pro- 
duces a  deep  black  liquid,  which  remains  clear,  does  not  deposit, 
and  may  be  employed  as  an  ink.  The  original  recipe  of  the 
inventor  is  as  follows  :  Digest  \  lb.  logwood  in  chips  for  12  hours 
in  3  pints  boiling  water.  Simmer  down  gently  to  1  quart ;  filter 
and  add  20  grains  yellow  chromate  of  potassa. 

Perfectly  neutral  litmus  paper  is  not  affected  by  it ;  it  does  not 
attack  pens  ;  it  is  very  cheap,  and  so  easily  penetrates  writing 
paper  that  it  cannot  be  removed  by  washing  even  with  a  sponge — 
in  a  word,  it  has  all  the  properties  of  an  excellent  ink.  On  expo- 
sure to  the  air  in  an  inkstand,  it  sometimes  decomposes  very 
rapidly,  its  coloring  matter  being  deposited  in  the  form  of  large 
black  flakes,  which  leave  a  colorless  liquid  above  them.     This 


62  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

gelatinisation  is  a  groat  defect  in  this  ink,  particularly  as  the  pre- 
cise conditions  that  determine  it  are  not  known.  Different  means 
have  been  propost  d  to  prevent  this  action  ;  tue  best  seema  to  be 
that  of  the  addition  of  carbonate  of  soda,  recommended  by 
Bot'ger. 

The  following  modification  of  the  original  formula  is  more 
easily  prepared  :  Dissolve  16  parts  of  extract  of  logwood  in  1000 
parts  of  water,  and  add  1  part  of  neutral  potassium  chromate 
(yellow  chromate  of  potassa  ) 

This  recipe  has  been  very  widely  published,  but  the  modifica- 
tion by  B>ttg<r  gives  better  results:  Take  extract  of  logwood,  15 
parts;  water,  1000  parts;  crystallised  carbonate  of  sodium,  4  parts; 
neutral  chromate  of  potassium,  1  part.  Dissolve  the  extract  of 
logwood  in  900  parts  of  water,  allow  it  to  deposit,  decant,  heat  to 
ebullition,  and  add  the  carbonate  of  soda;  lastly,  add  drop  by 
drop,  with  constant  stirring,  a  solution  of  the  neutral  chromate  in 
100  parts  of  water  The  ink  thus  obtained  has  a  fine  bluish  black 
color;  it  flows  well  from  the  pen,  and  dries  readily. 

Alizaiunk  Ink.— That  which  is  called  in  trade  "  alizarine  ink'' 
has  nothing  in  common  with  alizarine,  either  natural  or  artificial. 
The  name  was  applied  to  an  improved  kind  of  ink  over  30  years 
ago.  It  is  a  writing  fluid  in  wuich  the  iron  is  maintained  in  a 
ferrous  (protoxide)  condition,  aud  in  perfect  soluliou,  which  is 
accomplished  by  slightly  acidulatiug  the  liquid  with  acetic  or 
sometimes  with  sulphuric  acid.  The  liquid  nas  usually  a  rather 
pale  greenish  or  bluish  color,  aud  the  writing  is  at  first  green,  not 
black.  Not  long  afterwards,  however,  the  acid  menstruum 
evaporates,  leaving  a  very  thin  layer  of  the  ferrous  tannate,  which 
gradually  oxidises  in  the  air,  and  turns  to  black  ferric  tannate. 
Contrary  to  what  might  be  expecte'd,  steel  pens  are  not  usually 
much  corroded  by  properly  prepared  alizarine  inks  ;  the  first  coat- 
ing of  oxide  which  is  produced  upon  the  pen  generally  adheres  so 
firmly  that  further  action  is  very  much  retarded  The  very  pale 
tint  of  such  a  writing  fluid  is  frequently  heightened  by  the  addition 
of  some  indigo  solution,  best  in  form  of  indigo-carmine.  A  good 
formula  for  making  so  called  alizarine  ink  is  the  following: 
Powdered  nut-galls,  40  parts  ;  solution  of  acetate  of  iron,  15  parts; 
gum  arabic,  10  parts  ;  wood-vinegar,  10  parts  ;  indigo  carmine,  5 
parts;  and  water,  100  parts.  Prepare  the  solution  of  acetate  of 
iron  by  pouring  a  sufficient  quantity  of  wood  vinegar  upon  scrap- 
iron  contained  in  a  cask,  and  allow  it  to  act  upon  the  iron  for  at 
least  8  days.  Macerate  the  powdered  nut  galls  for  8  days  with 
the  100  parts  of  water,  mixed  with  the  10  parts  of  wood-vinegar. 
Before  mixing  the  strained  liquid  obtained  from  the  nut  gall  with 
the  iron  solution,  it  is  necessary  to  ascertain  whether  the  quantity 
of  acetic  acid  present  is  sufficient  to  keep  the  ferrous  acetate  in 
solution.  For  this  purpose  10  volumes  of  the  liquid  nut  gall 
extract  are  mixed  with  one  volume  of  the  iron  solution.  If  a  clear 
mixture  results,  and  of  a  dark-green  color,  in  thin  layers,  the 


INK.  63 

liquid  contains  enough  acid  ;  but  if  a  black  opaque  liquid  results, 
the  acid  is  d<  flcient.  In  the  latter  case  more  wood  vinegar  must 
be  very  gradually  and  cautiously  added  from  a  measured  volume, 
until  the  liquid  is  clear  and  dark  green,  and  the  n  quisite  amount 
of  acid,  determined  by  this  experiment,  must  be  added  to  the 
extract  of  nut  galls.  The  gum-arabic  is  next,  dissolved  in  the 
latter,  the  iron  solution  then  added,  and  finally  the  indigo  carmine, 
or  as  much  thereof  as  may  be  n  quired  to  produce  the  desired  tint. 
Bi.ub  Ink. — Take  6  drachms  pure  Prussian  blue  and  1  drachm 
oxalic  acid.  Grind  in  a  mortar  with  a  little  water  until  they  form 
a  perfectly  smooth  paste.  Dissolve  a  sufficient  quantity  of  this 
paste  in  water  to  give  the  proper  tint. 

Carmine  Ink—  French  Process — Take  22  grammes  (340  grains) 
of  the  best  carmine,  add  to  it  65  grammes  (2  ounces)  of  caustic 
ammonia,  add  1  gramme  (15$  grains)  of  white  num-arabic  Leave 
the  mixture  until  the  gum  is  entirely  dissolved  This  ink  is  un- 
doubtedly dearer  than  that  prepared  in  the  ordinary  way,  but  it  is 
incomparably  more  beeutiful  and  more  durable,  for  experience  has 
proved  that  letters  written  with  this  ink  have  for  forty  years  been 
preserved  without  the  slightest  alteration. 

Rhd  Ink.— Boil  ^  lb.  of  Brazil  wood,  |-oz  of  gum,  A;  oz.  of  sugar, 
and  A  <  z   of  alum  in  a  sufficient  quantity  of  vinegar. 

Aniline-Inks  —The  following  formu'se  for  aniline  inks  are  from 
recent  authoiities,  and  are  said  to  give  superior  results: 

1.  Alcoholic  Solutions. — General  Formu'je:  D.ssolve  15  parts 
of  aniline  color  in  150  parts  of  strong  alcohol  in  a  vessel  of  glass 
or  enamelled  iron  for  three  hours  ;  then  add  1000  parts  distilled 
water;  heat  gently  for  some  hours — in  fact,  till  the  odor  of  the 
alcohol  has  quite  disappeared  ;  then  add  a  solution  consisting  of 
60  parts  of  powdered  gum-arabic  in  250  parts  of  water. 

2  Special  Formula  for  Violet :  Digest  £  oz  aniline  violet  in  1 
oz.  alcohol  iu  a  suitable  vessel,  as  above,  for  three  hours;  then 
add  1  quart  of  distilled  water,  and  heat  gently  till  odor  of  spirit  is 
dissipated.  Then  add  2  drachms  gum  arabic  dissolved  iu  £  pint 
water,  and  allow  the  whole  to  settle.  This  will  bear  dilution,  if 
desired,  with  an  additional  quantity  of  distilled  water. 

3.  Special  Formula  for  Blue:  Dissolve  15 grains  aniline  blue  in 
1  oz.  alcohol,  and  add  6  oz.  in  distilled  water.  Boil  in  proper 
vessel,  as  above,  until  odor  of  alcohol  has  disappeared.  Then  add 
3  drachms  powdered  gum  arabic  dissolved  in  4  oz  distilled  water. 
Finally  filter.  It  will  be  perceived  that  there  is  considerable 
difference  in  the  above  special  formu  te  but  there  can  be  no  harm 
in  making  it  too  strong,  as  it  is  no  difficult  matter  to  dilute  with 
distilled  water  to  taste. 

Aqueous  Solutions. — 1.  Magenta:  1  oz  to  the  gallon  of  boiling 
distilled  water.  2.  Violet :  i  oz.  to  a  gallon  ditto.  3,  Blue  :  1  oz,, 
to  10  pints  ditto.    4.  Green  •"  1  oz.  to  5  pints  ditto. 


64  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

Ink  powders  were  at  one  time  in  great  request  as  a  means  of 
providing  portable  ink,  but  tbey  have  fallen  into  disuse  for  several 
reasons.  One  is  that  they  furnished  a  very  striking  example  of  a 
bad  method  of  combining  good  ingredients.  To  take  the  compo- 
nents of  ink,  grind  them  together  and  dump  them  into  water,  is 
not  just  the  best  way  of  making  ink  and  never  gave  good  results, 
though  this  method  of  combining  the  ingredients  of  a  formula  is 
very  often  the  one  advised  by  those  who  sell  recipes  and  are  too 
ignorant  or  too  lazy  to  work  the  matter  out  fully. 

Since  the  aniline  inks  came  into  use,  however,  we  have  a  means 
of  providing  a  portable  ink  of  good  quality  and  easily  used.  If 
thick  blotting  paper  be  saturated  with  such  ink,  dried  and  cut  into 
pieces,  one  of  these  pieces  if  soaked  in  a  little  water  will  furnish  a 
very  excellent  ink.  For  travellers  and  those  who  use  ink  only 
occasionally  this  form  of  portable  ink  is  quite  a  convenience,  and 
as  it  is  somewhat  of  a  curiosity,  it  might  form  a  good  article  for 
sale  through  the  mails,  as  it  can  be  sent  to  any  part  of  the  country 
easily,  safely  and  cheaply. 

Ink  Eraser. 

Some  persons  think  that  no  desk  can  be  completely  furnished 
without  a  bottle  of  ink  eraser.  The  basis  of  the  most  efficient 
erasers  is  chlorine — generally  in  the  form  of  chloride  of  lime, 
though  sometimes  the  chlorine  is  set  free  by  the  action  of  an  acid, 
and  in  that  case  the  liquid  is  in  reality  a  solution  of  chlorine. 
The  following  is  a  favorite  formula  for  an  eraser  of  this  kind  : 

Take  of  chloride  of  lime,  1  lb.,  thoroughly  pulverized,  and  4 
quarts  of  soft  water.  The  above  must  be  thoroughly  shaken  when 
first  put  together.  It  is  required  to  stand  24  hours  to  dissolve  the 
chloride  of  lime,  then  strain  through  a  cotton  cloth,  after  which, 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  acetic  acid  to  every  ounce  of  the  chloride 
of  lime  water.  The  eraser  is  used  by  reversing  the  penholder 
into  the  fluid,  and  applying  it,  without  rubbing,  to  the  word, 
figure  or  blot  required  to  be  erased.  When  the  ink  has  dis- 
appeared, absorb  the  fluid  with  a  blotter,  and  the  paper  when  dry 
is  immediately  ready  to  write  upon  again.  Chloride  of  lime  has 
before  been  used  with  acids  for  the  purpose  as  above  proposed ; 
but  in  all  previous  processes  the  chloride  of  lime  has  been  mixed 
with  acids  that  burn  and  destroy  the  paper. 

When  the  chlorine  is  once  set  free,  however,  it  is  very  apt  to 
escape  in  the  form  of  gas,  and  the  liquid  soon  loses  its  power. 
The  only  way  to  avoid  this  is  to  furnish  the  chloride  and  the  acid 
separately,  in  bottles  marked  respectively  1  and  2.  Then,  if  the 
solution  of  chloride  (No,  1)  be  applied  to  the  writing,  and  a  little 
of  the  acid  be  applied  to  the  chloride,  the  chlorine  is  disengaged 
in  absolute  contact  with  the  coloring  matter,  and  has  all  the  power 
of  a  chemical  agent  in  what  is  called  the  nascent  state,  a  condition 
in  which  most  chemicals  are  vastly  more  effective  than  in  their 


JAVELLE  WATEB— JPOROSOOP]  65 

ordinary  state.     Care  should  be  taken  to  avoid  mixing  the  liquids 
by  dipping  the  same  penholder  into  both. 

Brannt,  in  his  "Techno-Chemical  Receipt  Book,"  gives  the  fol- 
lowing formula  for  an  erasing  powder,  of  which,  however,  we 
doubt  the  efficiency  :  Mix  thoroughly  equal  parts  of  alum,  amber, 
sulphur  and  saltpetre,  and  keep  the  mixture  in  a  well-closed 
jar.  By  sprinkling  some  of  the  powder  upon  an  ink-stain  or 
recently-written  characters,  and  rubbing  with  a  white  linen  rag, 
the  stain  or  characters  will  at  once  disappear  from  the  paper. 

Javelle  Water,  or  Eau  de  Javelle. 

Cooley  and  some  others  call  this  liquid  "Javelle's  Bleaching 
Liquid,"  whereas  the  name  was  derived  from  the  town  of  Javelle, 
in  France,  where  a  manufacturer  sold  a  liquor  which  had  the 
property  of  bleaching  cloth  by  an  immersion  of  some  hours  only. 
The  following  is  the  original  recipe  given  by  Gray  in  his 
"Operative  Chemist:"  2\  lbs.  common  salt,  2  lbs.  of  sulphuric 
acid,  and  |  lb.  of  black  manganese  are  mixed  in  a  retort  and 
heated,  and  the  gas  which  comes  over  is  condensed  in  2  gallons  of 
water  in  which  5  lbs.  of  potash  have  been  dissolved.  This  liquor 
is  diluted  with  twelve  times  its  bulk  of  water. 

This  procesB  is  available  only  by  chemists,  however.  The  fol- 
lowing gives  good  results  :  Take  4  lbs.  carbonate  of  soda,  and  1  lb. 
chloride  of  lime ;  put  the  soda  into  a  kettle,  add  1  gallon  of  boiling 
water,  and  boil  for  from  10  to  15  minutes  ;  then  stir  in  the  chloride 
of  lime,  breaking  down  all  lumps  with  a  wooden  spatula  or  stirrer. 
Pour  into  large  glass  bottles.  When  cold  and  settled  it  will  be 
ready  for  use. 

This  forms  a  very  efficient  bleaching  liquid,  and  one  which  is 
not  difficult  to  remove  from  the  bleached  fabric.  Old  and  stained 
engravings  and  books,  as  well  as  linen  and  cotton  goods  that  have 
become  yellow  with  dirt  and  age,  may  be  rendered  snowy  white 
by  the  application  of  this  liquid.  It  is  quite  as  efficient  as  the 
peroxide  of  hydrogen,  but  is  more  corrosive,  and  cannot  well  be 
applied  to  ivory  and  similar  easily  injured  articles.  But  as  it  is 
easily  prepared,  it  offers  opportunities  which  the  peroxide  does 
not  command.  It  commands  a  considerable  sale  wherever  it  is 
known. 

Microscopes. 

A  few  years  ago  somebody  advertised  quite  extensively  that 
for  ten  cents  he  would  furnish  full  directions  for  making  "A 
microscope  magnifying  10,000  times !  !  "  and  he  also  offered  to 
send  a  microscope  of  this  power  for  25  cents.  As  this  was  an 
astonishing  offer,  the  advertiser  made  a  good  deal  of  money  out  of 
it.  We  procured  the  directions,  and  also  one  of  the  microscopes. 
The  latter  was  merely  a  piece  of  sheet-lead,  with  a  little  glass  bead 
stuck  in  a  hole  in  the  centre.  The  directions  told  us  to  fuse  the 
end  of  a  thin  rod  of  glass  in  the  flame  of  a  spirit  lamp,  and  mount 


66  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

this  little  globule  in  a  piece  of  sheet-lead  or  between  two  pieces  of 
thin  sheet-brass. 

That  the  advertiser  lived  up  to  the  Utter  of  his  promises  was 
probably  true.  If  by  times  we  mean  areas,  a  magnifying  power  of 
10,000  times  is  only  a  power  of  100  diameters,  for  100  X  100  gives 
10,000.  A  globule  of  the  tenth  of  an  inch  in  diameter  would  give 
a  magnifying  power  of  100  diameters,  and  so  the  promise  was 
fulfilled.  As  sent  out,  however,  the  microscopes  were  miserable 
affairs,  and  the  directions  were  imperfect,  and  even  inaccurate. 
But  if  well  made,  these  fused  globules  will  enable  us  to  see  a  great 
deal,  and  it  was  by  means  of  them  that  many  of  the  older  micro- 
scopists  made  their  great  discoveries. 

The  following  is  the  most  satisfactory  method  of  manufacturing 
such  microscopes  :  Take  a  narrow  strip  of  flint  glass,  which  may 
be  either  a  glass  rod  or  a  piece  cut  or  broken  from  a  piece  of  flint- 
glass-ware.  A  piece  of  tubing  may  be  used,  but  there  is  danger 
that  the  hollow  in  the  centre  will  leave  a  mark,  owing  to  dust  or 
dirt  that  cannot  be  easily  removed.  We  have  used  with  great 
success  a  slender  triangular  piece  of  glass,  obtained  by  breaking  a 
piece  of  fine  table  glass-ware  by  careful  blows.  Such  fine  ware  is, 
of  course,  not  always  to  be  obtained  in  a  broken  or  useless  con- 
dition, but  when  it  can  be  had,  it  is  very  useful  to  the  amateur 
optician.  A  pointed  piece  of  such  glass,  or  a  piece  of  good  rod, 
free  from  streaks  and  air-bubbles,  is  to  be  heated  in  the  flame  of  a 
spirit  lamp  or  a  Bunsen  burner  with  a  very  blue  flame.  The  end 
may  then  be  drawn  slowly  out,  and  it  will  form  a  thread  or  fine 
rod  of  any  diameter  we  may  choose  to  give  it.  The  end  of  this 
thread  is  then  to  be  heated  in  the  flame  until  it  fuses  and  forms  a 
little  globule  at  the  end.  By  giving  plenty  of  time,  a  good  strong 
heat,  and  by  turning  the  globule  constantly  on  its  axis,  it  will  form 
an  almost  perfect  sphere,  with  the  surface  clear  and  well  fused. 
Be  very  careful  not  to  bring  the  melted  glass  into  the  yellow  or 
reducing  part,  of  the  flame,  for  if  you  do,  the  lead  which  forms 
part  of  the  flint-glass  will  be  reduced,  and  will  give  a  bluish, 
opaque  color  to  the  globule,  and  render  it  useless.  The  best 
results  are  generally  obtained  by  holding  the  thread  perpendi- 
cularly while  cooling,  as  when  held  horizontally  the  globule  is  apt 
to  become  distorted.  Make  one  or  two  dozen  of  these,  and  in 
separating  them  from  the  glass  thread  leave  about  an  eighth  of  an 
inch  of  the  latter  attached  to  each  globule,  to  serve  as  a  handle  in 
the  next  step  of  the  process,  which  consists  in  inserting  them  to 
about  half  their  depth  in  a  plate  of  cement,  which  may  consist  of 
shellac,  thickened  with  very  dry  and  finely-powdered  pumice- 
stone.  To  form  such  a  wax  plate,  melt  some  shellac  in  a  ladle  or 
large  iron  spoon,  mix  it  carefully  with  as  much  powdered  pumice- 
stone  as  can  be  conveniently  stirred  in,  remove  it  from  the  fire, 
stir  well  until  it  begins  to  stiffen,  and  then  pour  it  out  on  a  flat 
metal  plate— the  surface  of  a  smoothing-iron  answering  very  well 
for  very  small  plates.    Instead  of  shellac,  which  is  expensive,  the 


MICROSCOPES.  67 

ordinary  pitch  used  by  opticians  may  be  used  with  equally  good 
effect.  There  are  several  recipes  for  preparing  this  pitch,  the  fol- 
lowing being  very  good.  The  first  we  have  tried  with  excellent 
results. 

1.  Pitch,  5  parts;  wood  ashes,  finely  powdered  and  well  sifted, 
1  part ;  tallow,  1  part,  less  or  more,  according  to  the  temperature 
of  the  season. 

2.  Beeswax,  1  oz.  ;  resin,  15  oz.  ;  melt  and  add  5  oz.  of 
whiting,  previously  heated  red  hot  and  still  warm. 

3.  Resin,  1  lb.  ;  melt,  and  add  dry  and  warm  plaster,  4  oz. 
This  forms  a  very  strong  cement  for  rough  purposes. 

The  plate  of  cement  should  be  from  one-half  to  three-quarters 
of  an  inch  thick,  and  the  little  globules  are  easily  fastened  into  it 
by  seizing  them  by  the  small  handles  left  on  them,  holding  them 
by  a  pair  of  forceps  in  a  lamp  llame  until  they  are  hot  enough  to 
melt  the  cement,  and  then  pressing  them  in  to  about  half  their 
depth  or  a  little  more.  When  quite  cold  they  will  be  very  securely 
held.  The  little  handles,  or  tails,  are  now  nipped  off  with  a  pair 
of  cutting  pliers,  and  the  globules  ground  all  at  once  on  a  fine 
grindstone,  or,  still  better,  on  a  metal  plate  charged  with  emery. 
When  they  have  been  reduced  nearly  to  the  surface  of  the  plate  of 
cement,  they  should  be  ground  with  emery  of  the  finest  kind,  and 
as  soon  as  all  scratches  have  been  removed  they  should  be  polished 
on  a  buff  leather  with  crocus  martis  or  putty  powder.  When  the 
polishing  is  complete  they  may  be  removed  from  the  cement  by 
means  of  a  small  chisel,  and  any  cement  that  adheres  may  be 
dissolved  off  by  means  of  alcohol.  They  now  form  little  lenses, 
nearly  hemispherical,  with  one  side  perfectly  fl*t,  and  they  may 
be  mounted  by  simply  pressing  them  into  hohs  drilled  in  brass, 
lead,  wood,  or  vulcanite.  The  plate  in  which  they  are  inserted 
should  be  neatly  formed,  and  if  the  material  is  not  black  naturally, 
it  should  be  stained  or  varnished  black. 

Microscopes  made  in  this  way  are  often  capable  of  showing  a 
great  deal.  We  have  one  now  before  lis  by  which  we  can  easily 
see  the  corpuscles,  or,  as  they  are  sometimes  called,  the  globules, 
of  human  blood,  and  we  can  readily  see  the  difference  between  the 
blood  of  a  man  and  that  of  a  frog.  We  can  also  see  clearly  the 
peculiar  form  and  structure  of  the  sling  of  the  bee,  the  eye  of  the 
fly,  and  the  hairs  from  different  animals.  The  "eels''  in  paste 
and  in  vinegar,  and  the  animalcules  in  water  are  quite  visible 
under  it,  and  the  scales  from  a  butterfly's  wing  look  somewhat 
like  feathers. 

These  microscopes  can  be  made  very  cheaply.  Mounted  in 
frames  of  close,  black  wood  (which  might  be  auy  good,  hard, 
close  grained  wood,  dyed  black  and  oiled),  they  should  not  cost 
more  than  three  or  four  cents  apiece,  if  the  coarser  parts  of  the 
work  is  done  by  boys  and  girls.  The  objection  to  them  is  that 
they  are  trying  to  the  eyes,  and  not  very  easily  used  by  those  who 
are  unaccustomed  to  them.     It  is  impossible  to  make  lenses  of 


68  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

this  kind  of  low  power  that  will  work  well,  and  those  of  very  high 
power  are  so  difficult  to  use  that  they  should  never  be  offered  for 
sale.  Globules  an  eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  and  a  little  over, 
give  the  most  satisfactory  results.  They  are  suitable  only  for 
transparent  objects ;  and  a  little  book  of  12  or  16  pages  should 
accompany  each  microscope,  giving  a  detail  of  the  methods  of 
using  the  microscope,  and  a  description  of  the  objects  that  may  be 
seen  by  it. 

Mouth  Pastils. 

Dry  compounds  for  perfuming  or  correcting  the  breath  : 
Caohou  Akomatisk. — The  basis  of  these  compounds,  as  the 
name  implies,  was  originally  catechu,  with  which  various  odorifer- 
ous substances  were  combined.  The  catechu,  however,  is  now 
often  omitted.  The  following  are  some  of  the  most  approved 
forms  : 

1.  Extract  of  liquorice,  3  oz.;  oil  of  cloves,  1^  drs.;  oil  of  cin- 
namon, 15  drops.  Mix,  and  divide  into  one-grain  pills,  and  silver 
them. 

2.  (M.  Chevallier's.)  Chocolate  powder  and  ground  coffee,  of 
each  H  oz.;  prepared  charcoal,  1  oz.;  sugar,  1  oz.;  vanilla  (pul- 
verised with  the  sugar),  1  oz,;  mucilage,  q.  s.  Make  into 
lozenges  of  any  form,  of  which  6  to  8  may  be  used  daily  to  disin- 
fect the  breath. 

3.  (Jachou  de  Bologne.  Bologna  Catechu  :  Extract  of  liquorice,  3 
oz  ;  water,  3  oz.  Dissolve  by  heat  in  a  water-bath,  and  add 
catechu,  1  oz.;  gum-arabic,  i  oz.;  evaporate  to  the  consistence  of 
an  extract,  and  add  (in  powder)  h  drachm  each  of  mastic,  cascar- 
illa,  charcoal  and  orris.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  oil  of 
peppermint  -i  drachm  ;  essence  of  ambergris  and  essence  of  musk, 
each  5  drops;  roll  it  flat  on  an  oiled  marble  slab,  and  cut  it  into 
very  small  lozenges.  Or  it  may  be  rolled  into  small  pills,  and 
silvered.     They  are  chiefly  used  by  smokers. 

4.  Catechu,  7  drachms  ;  orris  powder,  40  grains  ;  sugar,  3  oz  ; 
oil  of  rosemary  (or  of  peppermint,  cloves  or  cinnamon),  4  drops, 
or  q.  s.     Proceed  as  for  the  last. 

5.  Cachou  Aromatise  :  Extract  of  liquorice  and  water,  of  each 
3i  oz.  Dissolve  in  a  water-bath,  and  add  Bengal  catechu,  in  pow- 
der, 462  grains,  and  gum-arabic,  in  powder,  231  grains  :  evaporate 
to  an  extract,  and  then  incorporate  the  following  substances,  first 
reduced  to  a  fine  powder:  Mastic,  cascarilla,  charcoal  and  orris 
root,  of  each  30  grains ;  melt  the  mass  to  a  proper  consistence, 
remove  it  from  the  fire,  and  then  add  oil  of  pepperment,  30  drops; 
tinctures  of  ambergris  and  musk,  of  each  5  drops ;  pour  it  now 
on  an  oiled  slab,  and  spread  it  out,  by  means  of  a  roller,  to  the 
thickness  of  a  dime.  When  cool,  apply  some  folds  of  blotting- 
paper  to  absorb  any  adherent  oil,  moisten  the  surface  with  water, 
and  cover  it  with  sheets  of  silver  leaf.  Allow  it  to  dry,  and  finally 
divide  it  into  thin  strips,  and  these  again  into  small  pieces,  about 
the  size  of  a  fenugreek  seed. 


MOUTH  PASTILS    MUCILAGE.  69 

Pastils  or  lozenges,  with  chlorine,  for  disinfecting  the  breath  : 
1.  Sugar,  flavored  with  vanilla,  1  OZ  ;  i>  iwdered  tragacanth,  20 
grains:  liquid  chloride  of  soda,  q  a;  any  essential  oil,  2  » i  r< .  [  >  -». 
Form  a  paste,  and  divide  into  lozenges  of  15  grains  each.  2.  Dry 
chloride  of  lime,  2  drachms  ;  sugar,  8  oz  ;  starch,  1  oz  ;  gum 
tragacanth,  1  drachm ;  carmine,  2  grains.  Form  into  small 
lozenges. 

Mucilage. 

The  demand  for  mucilage  is  so  large  that  it  gives  employment 
to  several  manufacturers  on  the  large  scale.  The  standard  muci- 
lage, and  the  best,  is  a  solution  of  good  gum  arabic,  but  as  this  is 
rather  expensive,  the  cheaper  gum,  Senegal,  which  possesses  very 
similar  properties,  is  generally  substituted  for  it.  None  of  the 
other  gums  have  the  peculiar  toughness  and  adhesiveness  of  the 
true  gum-arabic  or  gum-acacia.  But  as  cheapness  is  an  important 
feature  of  common  mucilage,  and  as  an  article  of  extraordinary 
strength  is  not  absolutely  necessary,  a  good  substitute  rinds  a  ready 
market.     The  chief  substitutes  for  the  true  gum  are  : 

1.  Gum  Senegal.  This  more  nearly  resembles  the  true  gum 
than  does  anything  else. 

2.  Dextiine,  or  British  gum.  This  furnishes  a  very  strong  and 
pleasant  mucilage. 

3.  Saccharate  of  lime. 
4    Casein  Mucilage. 

Nos.  3  and  4  furnish  a  mucilage  which  costs  very  little,  and 
answers  fairly  for  many  purposes. 

Saccharate  of  lime,  which  is  a  combination  of  lime  aud  sugar,  is 
easily  made  as  follows  :  The  granulated  sugar  of  the  stores  is  dis- 
solved in  three  times  its  weight  of  boiling  water,  and  one-fourth  of 
its  weight  of  slacked  lime  is  added  and  well  stirred  in.  The  whole 
is  again  heated  to  the  boiling  point,  and  the  liquid  is  then  put 
aside  in  a  covered  vessel  and  allowed  to  stand  lor  several  days, 
being  stirred  occasionally.  It  is  finally  allowed  to  settle  and  the 
clear  liquid  poured  off  for  use. 

Mucilage  made  in  this  way  is  very  cheap,  possesses  great 
adhesive  powers,  and  answers  all  the  purposes  of  gum  arabic.  It 
is  not  quite  as  pleasant  to  use,  and  when  once  it  is  dried  it  is  diffi- 
cult to  soak  it  oil.     It  is  also  apt,  to  clog  the  brush. 

Casein  mucilage  is  made  by  dissolving  casein  in  a  solution  of 
borax ;  and  Wagner,  who  is  high  authority,  says,  that  as  regards 
adhesive  properties  it  far  surpasses  a  solution  of  gum-arabic,  and  he 
recommends  It  as  the  best  kind  of  glue  or  paste  for  paper-hanging, 
bookbinders,  and  even  as  glue  for  joiners.  The  casein  is  prtpared 
from  skim  milk  by  any  acids,  or  by  rennet,  and  after  being 
separated  from  the  whey,  and  well  washed,  it  is  dissolved  in  a  cold 
solution  of  borax. 

There  are  other  solutions  which  might  be  used  for  the  pur- 
poses named,  but  none  of  them  present  the  advantages  that  belong 


70  TKADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

to  those  that  we  have  described.  As  mucilage  and  portable  glue 
will  always  be  in  demand,  they  seem  to  offer  a  fair  field  for  enter- 
prise on  a  small  scale. 

Pharoah's  Serpents. 

The  chemical  toy  sold  under  this  name  consist  of  the  powder 
of  pulphocyanide  of  mercury  made  ug  in  a  capsule  of  tin-foil  in  a 
conical  mass  about  three-eighths  of  an  inch  in  height.  Ignited  at 
the  apex,  an  ash  is  protruded,  long  and  serpentine  in  shape.  The 
fumes  evolved  are  very  poisonous. 

A  very  excellent  imitation  of  the  original,  and  one  which  has 
the  great  advantage  of  being  entirely  harmless,  may  be  thus  pre- 
pared :  Bichromate  potass,  2  parts;  nitrate  potassa,  1  part;  and 
white  sugar,  3  parts.  Pulverize  each  of  the  ingredients  separately, 
and  then  mix  them  thoroughly.  Make  small  paper  cones  of  the 
desired  s;ze,  and  press  the  mixture  into  them.  They  are  now 
ready  for  use,  but  must  be  kept  from  light  and  moisture. 

Plate  Powders. 

These  are  powders  for  cleaning  plate  and  jewelry.  They 
should  be  very  soft  and  free  from  grit,  as  any  hard  particles  will 
be  sure  to  scratch  such  soft  metals  as  silver  and  gold,  and  destroy 
the  beautiful  mirror-like  polish  which  they  have  when  they  leave 
the  hands  of  the  manufacturer.  Flale  powders  are  in  considerable 
request,  and  are  generally  put  up  in  boxes  of  paper  or  wood. 

Various  kinds  of  diatomaceous  earth  have  been  used  for  this 
purpose,  and  strange  to  say  they  have  been  sold  quite  extensively 
by  jewelers.  The  powerful  action  of  these  earths,  prominent 
amoDgst  which  is  the  so-called  electro  silicon,  is  shown  by  the  fact 
that  they  will  quickly  and  thoroughly  polish  a  piece  of  dirty  tin  or 
brass.  Such  action  is  altogether  too  rough  for  silver  or  gold,  and 
would  be  the  destruction  of  fine  work  in  the  precious  metals. 

Several  of  the  recipes  that  are  sold  recommend  the  addition  of 
quicksilver,  or  its  compounds.  Any  such  article  will  infallibly 
ruin  any  article  of  silver  or  gold  with  which  it  may  be  brought 
into  contact,  and  to  sell  such  material  as  an  article  for  cleaning 
plate  ought  to  be  a  prison  offence. 

The  following  preparations  are  the  best  that  are  known,  and 
they  may  be  used  with  in.plicit  confidence  : 

One  way  in  which  they  may  be  prepared  is  to  boil  them  with 
water,  with  pieces  of  muslin  ;  the  finer  particles  are  entangled  in 
the  fibres  of  the  muslin,  which  are  dried  and  sold  for  use. 

1.  Jewhleks'  Rodgb  —Dissolve  green  vitriol  in  hot  water,  and 
add  a  solution  of  pearlash  as  long  as  it  throws  down  a  precipitate. 
Wash  the  precipitate  repeatedly  with  warm  water,  drain  it  on 
calico,  and  finally  calcine  it  till  it  assumes  a  bright  red  color. 
Great  care  must  be  taken  not  to  heat  it  too  strongly,  as  it  then 
becomes  so  hard  that  it  will  cut  steel  rapidly,  and  is  altogether  too 
powerful  for  use  with  the  softer  metals. 


PLATE  POWDERS-POISONS  FOR  VERMIN.  71 

It. is  sometimes  made  by  calcining  the  sulphate  of  iron  with 
a  strong  heat,  till  oxide  of  iron  only  remains.  It  is  then  triturated 
with  water,  and  prepared  in  the  s  ime  way  as  prepared  chalk. 

2.  Fkbnoii  Platk  Powdbb.— Mix  one  part  of  jewelers'  rouge 
with  12  of  carbonate  cf  magnesia. 

3  Finest  putty  powder,  1  oz  ;  levigated  chalk,  5  oz  A  little 
rouge  may  be  added  to  color  it.  Putty  powder  is  oxide  of  tin, 
prepared  specially  for  polishing.  It  may  be  obtained  from  dealers 
in  polishing  materials. 

4  Pkkpakkd  Whiting — Whiting  is  simply  a  natural  carbonate 
of  lime,  prepared  by  grinding  and  washing  chalk  As  usually 
found  in  the  stores  it  is  apt  to  be  gritty  and  rough,  but  if  well 
prepared  by  regrinding  and  careful  washing  it  forms  one  of  the 
very  best  of  plate  powders.  A  delicate  rose  tint  may  be  given  to 
it  by  the  addition  of  a  little  rouge. 

Pkbpared  Chalk — This  is  a  manufactured  article,  prepared  by 
adding  a  solution  of  carbonate  of  soda  to  a  solution  of  chioride  of 
calcium  (both  cheap  salts),  so  long  as  a  precipitate  is  thrown 
down.  The  solutions  should  be  carefully  filtered  through  paper 
before  being  mixed,  and  dust  should  be  rigorously  excluded.  The 
white  powder  which  falls  down  is  carbonate  of  lime,  or  chalk,  and 
when  carefully  washed  and  dried  it  forms  a  most  excellent  polishing 
powder  for  the  softer  metals.  The  particles  are  almost  impal- 
pable, but  seem  to  be  crystalline,  for  they  polish  quickly  and 
smoothly,  though  they  seem  to  wear  away  the  material  so  little 
that  its  form  or  sharpness  is  not  injured  to  any  perceptible  degree. 
When  used  as  plate  powder  it  would  be  well  to  pass  it  through  a 
grinding-mil),  so  as  to  render  it  still  finer  and  sotter. 

Platb  Boiling  Powder —Equal  parts  of  cream  of  tartar,  alum 
and  common  salt.  A  small  quantity  added  to  the  water  in  which 
plate  is  boiled  gives  it  a  silvery  whiteness. 

Poisons  for  Vermin. 

Insect  powders  are  undoubtedly  the  best  and  most  cleanly 
destroyers  of  fully  developed  insects,  but  they  have  no  effect  upon 
eggs.  AVhere  it  is  desired  to  make  thorough  work  of  bed  bugs  and 
similar  vermin  in  furniture  which  cannot  be  conveniently 
exposed  to  hot  steam,  the  best  precaution  is  a  solution  of  bichloride 
of  mercury  in  dilute  alcohol.  Alcohol  is  used  in  preference  to 
water,  because  its  power  of  moistening  greasy  or  varnished  sur- 
faces, and  of  penetrating  into  cracks  that  are  filled  with  dust,  is 
much  greater  than  that  of  water.  Indeed,  water  will  roll  in  drops 
off  a  dusty  surface  to  which  alcohol  will  adhere  and  thoroughly 
moisten.  The  alcohol  need  not  be  very  strong.  Half  alcohof  and 
half  water  answers  very  well,  and  in  each  quart  of  this  liquid 
ought  to  be  dissolved  2  ounces  of  bichloride  and  2  ounces  of  cam- 
phor. This  liquid,  if  applied  to  the  cracks  of  furniture,  etc.,  by 
means  of  a  small  brush,  will  effectually  destroy  all  vermin— old, 
young  and  eggs. 


72      TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIYATE  RECIPES. 

It  is  a  rank  poison,  and  must  not  be  applied  to  human  beings  or 
other  living  creatures.  For  such  purpose  the  best  poison  is  tinc- 
ture of  larkspur. 

Phosphorous  Paste  for  Rats,  Miok,  eto. — Introduce  1  drachm 
of  phosphorus  into  a  Florence  flask,  or  any  thin  glass  bottle,  and 
pour  over  it  1  oz.  of  alcohol.  Immerse  the  flask  in  water,  andheat 
very  gradually  until  the  phosphorus  is  melted,  then  put  a  well- 
fitting  cork  into  the  mouth  of  the  flask,  and  shake  briskly  until 
cold.  The  phosphorus  is  now  reduced  to  a  finely  divided  state. 
This,  after  pouring  off  the  spirit,  is  to  be  mixed  in  a  mortar,  with 
H  oz.  of  lard.  Five  oz.  of  flour  and  lh  oz.  of  brown  sugar,  previ- 
ously mixed  together,  are  now  added,  and  the  whole  made  into  a 
paste  with  a  little  water.  Cheese  may  be  substituted  for  sugar 
when  the  paste  is  intended  for  rats  or  mice.  There  is  no  danger 
whatever  of  spontaneous  ignition  either  duriDg  or  after  the  pre- 
paration of  this  paste. 

Polish  for  Furniture. 

In  these  days,  when  natural  or  unpainted  woods  are  coming 
into  fashion,  good  polish  is  in  demand.  The  following  are 
favorite  recipes  : 

Furniture  Cream. — 1.  Soft  water,  1  gallon;  soap,  4  oz.;  bees- 
wax, in  shavings,  1  lb.;  boil  together,  and  add  2  oz.  of  pearlash. 
To  be  diluted  with  water,  laid  on  with  a  paint-brush,  and  polished 
off  with  a  hard  brush  or  cloth. 

2  Wax,  3  oz  ;  pearlash,  2  oz  ;  water,  6  oz.  Heat  them 
together,  and  add  4  oz.  of  boiled  oil  and  5  oz  spirit  of  turpentine. 

3.  The  name  is  sometimes  given  to  a  mixture  of  1  oz.  of  white 
or  yellow  wax,  with  4  oz.  of  oil  of  turpentine. 

Forniture  Paste. — 1.  Melt  1  lb.  of  beeswax  with  £  pint  of  lin- 
seed oil,  and  add  i  oz  of  alkanet  root.  Keep  it  at  a  moderate  heat 
till  sufficiently  colored,  then  remove  from  the  fire,  add  i  pint  of 
oil  of  turpentine,  strain  through  muslin,  and  put  it  into  small 
gallipots  to  cool. 

2.  Scrape  4  oz.  of  wax,  and  put  it  into  a  pipkin  with  as  much 
oil  of  turpentine  as  will  cover  it,  and  \  oz.  of  powdered  resin ; 
melt  with  a  gentle  heat,  and  stir  in  sufficient  Indian  red  to 
color  it. 

3.  Equal  weights  of  beeswax,  spirit  of  turpentine  and  linseed 
oil. 

Furniture  Oil  — 1.  Linseed  oil,  1  pint ;  alkanet,  h  oz.  Digest 
in  a  warm  place  till  colored,  and  strain. 

2    The  same  with  \  pint  of  oil  of  turpentine. 

3.  Linseed  oil,  1  pint;  alkanet  root,  1  oz  ;  rose 'pink,  1  oz. 
Let  them  stand  in  earthen  vessel  all  night. 

4  A  quart  of  Unseed  oil,  6  oz.  of  distilled  vinegar,  3  oz.  of 
spirit  of  turpentine,  1  oz.  of  hydrochloric  acid,  and  2  oz.  spirit  of 
wine. 


POLISH  FOR  FURNITURE-POUNCE.  73 

6.  Linseed  oil,  8oz.;  vinegar,  4  <■■/.  ;  oil  of  turpentine,  mucilage, 
rectified  spirit,  each  h  oz  ;  butter  of  antimony,  J  oz  ;  hydrochloric 
acid,  1  oz.     Mix 

0.  Linseed  oil,  10  oz  ;  black  resin,  4  cz  ;  vinegar,  4  oz  ;  recti- 
tified  spirit,  3  oz  ;  butter  of  antimony,  1  oz  ;  spirit  of  salts,  2  oz. 
Melt  the  resin,  add  the  oil,  take  it  oil  the  fire,  and  stir  it  in  the 
vinegar;  let  it  boil  for  a  few  minutes,  stirring  it;  when  cool  put 
it  into  a  bottle,  add  the  other  ingredients,  shaking  all  together. 
The  last  two  are  especially  used  for  reviving  French  polish. 

7.  Linseed  oil,  1  pint;  oil  of  turpentine,  \  pint ;  rectified  spirit, 
4  oz  ;  powdered  resin,  li  oz  ;  rose  pink,  i  oz      Mix. 

8.  Linseed  oil,  14  oz.;  vinegar,  \\  oz.;  hydrochjoric  acid,  i  oz. 
Mix. 

Holtzapffel,  than  whom  there  is  no  better  authority,  quotes, 
approvingly,  the  following  by  J.  Rhodes  :  "I  know  of  no  better  or 
more  durable  polish  for  teak  or  furniture  woods  than  may  be  pre- 
pared by  melting  three  or  four  pieces  of  sandarach,  of  the  size  of 
a  walnut  or  small  egg,  and  pouring  upon  it  a  botlleful  of  linseed 
oil,  rendered  drying  by  litharge  or  other  drier,  and  after  boiling 
them  together  for  an  hour,  gradually  adding,  while  cooling,  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  Venice  turpentine.  If  too  thick  it  may  be  thinned 
with  spirits  of  turpentine.  It  should  be  rubbed  on  the  furniture, 
and  after  a  little  time,  during  which  it  may  be  exposed  to  the  sun, 
rubbed  off.  The  rubbing  should  be  repeated  daily,  and  the 
polish  should  not  be  again  applied  for  eight  or  ten  days,  after 
which  it  may  be  slightly  applied  every  one  or  two  months.  Water 
does  not  injure  this  polish,  and  any  stain  or  scratch  may  be  rubbed 
over  with  the  polish,  which  caunot  be  done  with  the  French 
polish." 

Polishing  Cloth  — This  is  cloth  saturated  with  soap  and  polish- 
ing powder,  so  that  it  cleans  and  polishes  any  metal  surface  very 
effectually.  The  term  "  Magic"  is  generally  prefixed  to  the  name, 
but  what  there  is  that  is  magical  about  it  is  a  mystery.  The  fol- 
lowing is  the  usual  formula  : 

Dissolve  8  ounces  of  soap  in  40  ounces  of  water,  and  stir  in  4 
ounces  of  polishing  powder,  which  may  be  pumice-stone  powder, 
Tripoli,  finely  powdered  emery,  or  any  other  material  suitable  for 
the  work  to  be  performed.  Tripoli,  or  fine  diatomaceous  earth,  is 
generally  to  be  preferred.  With  the  pasty  mass  thus  produced, 
thoroughly  saturate  stout  unbleached  muslin,  and  dry  it.  The 
cloth  is  cut  into  pieces,  4  to  6  inches  square,  and  is  applied  by 
rubbing  the  article  to  be  polished  until  it  is  bright.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  cloth  is  improved  by  coloring  it  red,  which  may  easily 
be  done  with  a  little  aniline. 

Pounce. 

In  the  olden  times  a  pounce-box  formed  part  of  the  furniture 
of  every  desk,  being  used  to  brush  over  the  surface  of  parch- 
ment to  take  off  its  greasiness,  and  also  to  prevent   ink  from 


74  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

sinking  into  the  substance  of  paper,  the  sizing  of  which  had  been 
disturbed  by  the  knife  in  scraping  out.  The  liquid  used  on  liueu, 
previous  to  writing  on  it  with  maiking  ink,  and  to  prevent  the 
spreading  of  the  ink,  is  called  Liquid  Pounce.  The  colored  pow- 
ders used  by  pattern-drawers,  for  sprinkling  over  pricked  papers, 
are  also  called  ''  pounce." 

The  old  fashioned  pounce  has  gone  almost  entirely  out  of  use, 
but  the  recipe  for  it  is  still  offered  for  sale,  with  glowing  accounts 
of  what  may  be  done  with  it — how  writings  may  be  altered, 
amended  and  improved,  and  how  poor  paper  may  be  made  equal 
to  the  finest !  It  may,  therefore,  be  well  to  give  the  formula 
generally  used  for  preparing  it : 

1.  Gum  sandarac,  pounded  very  fine.  This  was  the  material 
generally  used  for  parchment  and  paper. 

2.  Cuttlefish  bone,  well  dried  ;  yellow  resin  and  burnt  alum, 
in  equal  quantities,  finely  powdered  and  well  mixed  together. 
This  and  No.  1  were  applied  to  the  surface  by  means  of  a  cylin- 
drical roll  of  list,  called  a  rubber,  and  in  the  case  of  erasures  the 
surface  was  burnished  with  a  smooth  bone  oi  ivory  handle,  so  as 
to  restore  the  polish. 

3.  The  liquid  pounce,  used  with  marking-ink,  is  composed  of: 
Carbonate  of  soda,  1  oz.;  gum  arabic,  2  drachms,  dissolved  in  6 
oz  of  rain-water. 

Packers  rub  the  surface  of  porous  and  greasy  woods,  as  the 
heads  of  boxes,  cases,  casks,  &c,  with  whiting  or  powdered  resin, 
to  make  them  bear  the  ink.  This  powder  is  sometimes  called 
pounce. 

Razor-Strops, 

A  good  razor-strop  is  indispensable,  not  only  to  the  barber  and 
to  those  who  shave  themselves,  but  to  all  who  require  exceedingly 
shaip  cutting  tools.  The  surgeon,  the  wood  carver,  the  micro- 
scopist,  and  many  other  artists,  are  greatly  aided  in  their  work  by 
the  use  of  a  good  strop. 

The  basis  of  the  best  strop  is  good  hard  leather.  By  hard 
leather,  we  do  not  mean  leather  that  has  been  rendered  stiff  and 
hard  by  alternate  wetting  and  drying,  but  leal  her  that  is  so  close  and 
firm  in  texture  as  to  be  compressed  with  dilliculty.  Leather  that 
is  soft,  yields  to  the  pressure  of  the  edge  of  the  tool,  and  rises  up 
when  this  edge  passes  over  it.  Instead  of  a  sharp  edge,  formed  by 
two  planes  meeting  each  other,  a  blunt  edge,  formed  by  the  meet- 
ing of  two  curved  surfaces,  is  the  result,  and  such  an  edge  can 
never  cut  cleanly  and  well.  This  arises  partly  from  the  defective 
form,  and  also  from  the  great  increase  in  the  cutting  angle  of  the 
edge. 

Good  hard  calfskin  probably  makes  the  best  surface  for  a  strop. 
Excellent  pieces  may  in  general  be  obtained  from  the  bookbinders 
for  a  trifle,  and  they  are  easily  attached  to  the  wooden  holder  by 
means  of  a  little  glue.     Two  surfaces  are  generally  employed — 


RAZOll  STROPS.  75 

one  in  its  natural  condition,  and  the  other  after  being  rubbed 
with  some  very  hard  but  fine  powder.  Of  the  powders  that  have 
been  suggested,  the  following  give  good  results  : 

1.  Coicothar  or  crocus,  well  burned  and  very  finely  pu'veriz'd. 
The  crocus  used  for  plate  polishing  is  too  soft,  but  by  heating,  it 
becomes  so  hard  that  it  polishes  steel  quite  rapidly. 

2.  Emery,  brought  to  a  state  of  the  very  finest  powder  by 
grinding  and  washing. 

3.  The  charcoal  of  wheat  straw,  or  the  straw  of  grasses  growing 
in  swamps  or  marshy  places.  This  charcoal  owes  its  efficacy  to 
the  small  quantity  of  silica  which  it  contains. 

4.  Diatomaceous  earth.  Of  this,  the  famous  Tripoli  powder  is 
a  good  example.  Such  earth  is  found  quite  extensively  in  this 
country.  In  its  natural  state  the  particles  are  too  coarse,  and  the 
earth  is  apt  to  be  gritty  from  the  presence  of  fine  pand.  It  should 
be  well  ground  in  a  mortar  and  carefully  washed. 

5.  The  fine  carbonaceous  dust  deposited  in  gas  retorts  during 
the  process  of  making  gas.  The  particles  of  this  black  dust  are 
as  hard  as  diamonds,  and  cut  steel  rapidly — they  are,  in  fact,  very 
minute  diamonds.  All  these  powders  ought  to  be  carefully 
washed,  or  rather  "elutriated,"  so  as  to  separate  the  coarser  par- 
ticles and  the  impalpable  dust,  which  does  no  good,  but,  on  the 
contrary,  clogs  the  cutting  action  of  the  material.  After  being 
carefully  washed  the  powder  is  dried,  and  either  mixed  with  a 
little  tallow  and  wax,  or  the  leather  is  first  rubbed  very  lightly 
with  the  greasy  mixture,  and  then  very  lightly  coated  with  the 
powder.  When  made  into  cakes  with  grease  the  material  is  known 
as  "  razor  paste,"  and  is  sold  as  such  Crocus,  in  the  form  of  cakes 
and  sticks,  can  also  be  found  in  most  tool  stores. 

Diamond  dust,  or  the  powder  produced  by  rubbing  diamonds 
against  each  other  in  the  process  of  cutting  and  polishing  them, 
possesses  very  powerful  cutting  qualities,  and  when  properly 
used  on  suitable  "  laps  "  or  metal  blocks,  it  enables  us  to  give  a 
very  keen  edge  to  every  species  of  cutlery.  Cooley  tells  us  that 
"the  discovery,  or  assumed  discovery,  of  this  fact,  a  few  years 
since,  led  certain  knaves  to  extensively  advertise  and  puff  a  spuri- 
ous preparation  (powdered  quartz)  under  the  name  of  diamond 
dust.  In  a  short  time  the  demand  for  the  fictitious  article  became 
immense.  It  soon,  however,  acquired  a  bad  notoriety.  Instead 
of  sharpening  cutting  instruments  it  infallibly  destroyed  their 
edge,  and  was  particularly  unfortunate  in  converting  razors  into 
saws.  This  discovery  was  not  made  until  it  was  in  the  hands  of 
the  majority  of  the  adults  in  the  kingdom;  nor  before  the  scamps 
who  had  manufactured  it  and  vended  it  had  realized  a  moderate 
fortune." 

It  is  very  evident,  however,  that  the  evil  effects  in  this  case 
arose  from  wrong  methods  of  manufacture  and  preparation. 
Quartz  crystals,  which  have  been  frequently  sold  as  "diamonds," 
under  the  names  of  "  California  diamonds,"  "  Alaska  diamonds," 


76      TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PEIYATE  RECIPES. 

etc.,  etc.,  were  ground  as  fiuely  as  ordinary  stamping  mills  would 
grind  them ;  the  powder  was  bolted  or  sifted,  and  in  this  state 
placed  on  the  market.  Now,  it  is  the  last  degree  of  pulverization 
that  costs  in  this  case.  It  is  easy  to  reduce  the  quartz  to  coarse 
powder,  and  not  very  difficult  to  obtain  a  tolerably  fine  powder; 
but  to  get  a  quartz  powder  sufficiently  fine  and  free  from  coarse 
particles  to  serve  as  a  polisher  or  sharpener  for  cutlery  is  a  more 
difficult  matter.  From  experiments  that  we  have  made  it  would 
seem  that  pulverized  quartz  might  be  a  very  valuable  grinding 
and  polishing  material,  and  as  it  can  be  had  in  almost  unlimited 
quantities  for  nothing,  it  offers  a  fine  field  for  enterprise.  When 
thoroughly  ground,  it  should  first  be  sifted  or  bolted,  aud  then 
washed  or  elutriated,  so  as  to  separate  all  grit. 

Rennet. 

Milk,  curdled  by  means  of  rennet,  forms  not  only  a  delicious 
dessert,  but  a  great  treat  and  valuable  food  in  the  sick  room.  It 
cannot  always  be  obtained,  but  it  is  readily  prepared  so  as  to  keep 
for  an  indefinite  time. 

Rennet  is  simply  the  fourth,  or  true  digesting  stomach  of  the 
calf,  which  has  been  freed  from  membranes,  the  other  skin,  and 
fatty  matters,  and  then  cured,  either  by  being  steeped  in  strong 
brine  or  covered  with  dry  salt  for  a  few  hours,  after  which  it  is 
hung  up  to  dry.  Calves'  stomachs  thus  prepared  are  called 
"veils,"  and  somewhat  resemble  parchment. 

The  Bavarian  mode  of  curing  consists  in  turning  out  the  con- 
tents of  the  skin  of  the  stomach,  wiping  off  all  specks  or  dirt  with 
a  cloth,  and  then  blowing  up  the  skin,  or  filling  it  with  air  like  a 
bladder.  The  ends  are  tied  with  a  string,  and  a  little  salt  applied 
to  this  part  only.  The  skin,  treated  in  this  way,  soon  dries  per- 
fectly, and  is  as  sweet  and  c'ean  as  can  be  desired.  Salt  neutral- 
izes in  some  degree  the  action  of  rennet,  therefore  the  rennets 
treated  on  the  Bavarian  plan  are  much  more  effective  than  those 
cured  in  the  old  way.  When  the  rennets  cured  on  this  plan  are 
dry,  the  air  may  be  expelled,  and  the  skins  can  be  packed  away  in 
a  small  space,  and  ate  easily  kept  clear  of  insects.  The  defect  in 
salted  rennets  is,  that  the  salt  in  wet  weather  accumulates  damp- 
ness, and  if  care  be  not  taken  to  keep  them  in  a  dry  place,  they 
drip,  and  thus  lose  their  strength. 

The  essence  of  rennet  may  be  prepared  as  follows  :  Chop  up  a 
fresh  calf's  stomach  as  finely  as  possible,  pour  upon  it  two  litres  of 
water  in  which  100  grams  of  common  salt  has  been  dissolved,  and 
shake  well.  After  twelve  hours  add  200  c.c.  of  90  deg.  alcohol,  and 
allow  the  whole  to  stand,  with  frequent  stirring,  in  a  closed  jar  for 
three  weeks,  then  decant,  and  add  sufficient  blotting  paper  to 
cover  it.  After  several  weeks,  during  which  the  vessel  must  be 
kept  well  closed,  the  essence  of  rennet  is  drawn  off  into  bottles 
and  preserved.  A  liquor  prepared  in  this  way  was,  when  fresh, 
capable  of  curdling  0000  times  its  volume  of  milk,  and,  being  kept 


RENNET    SEALING  WAX.  77 

in  &  well-corked  bottle,  it  was  found,  after  two  years,  to  have 
diminished  in  activity  only  from  1  in  6000  to  one  in  5401. 

Distilled  or  rain  water  gives  a  more  active  essence  than  spring 
water,  and  it  is  advantageous  to  miuce  the  stomach  as  fiuely  as 
possible. 

The  way  to  use  rennet  is  to  cut  off  a  bit  of  suitable  size  (a  piece 
an  inch  square  is  large  enough  to  coagulate  several  gallons  of 
milk),  and  soak  it  for  some  hours  in  water;  then  add  the  whole 
to  the  milk,  a  little  warmed.  The  mixture  is  now  very  gradually 
heated  to  something  above  blood-heat,  or  about  120  (leg.  Very  soon 
it  undergoes  a  great  change,  and  a  solid  white  curd  is  separated 
from  the  whey.  This  curd  may  be  used  to  make  cheese,  or  it 
may,  when  cold,  be  eaten  with  a  little  milk  or  cream. 

Sealing  Wax. 

Sealing  wax  is  again  coming  into  fashion,  and  as  a  consequence 
recipes  for  manufacturing  it  are  freely  offered.  The  number  of 
the  formulae  that  may  be  found  is  almost  unlimited,  but  to  pro- 
duce a  really  flue  article  requires  a  good  deal  of  skill  and 
experience. 

The  old  sealing  wax  found  on  deeds  and  charters  was  real  wax 
colored  with  vermillion.  It  had  no  holding  power,  and  was 
employed  simply  to  retain  an  impression  of  the  seal.  When  used 
to  secure  packages,  these  were  tied  with  cords  or  ribbons,  the 
ends  of  which  were  embedded  in  the  wax.  Modern  sealing  wax 
is  a  fusible  cement,  which  holds  two  pieces  of  paper  or  cloth 
together  veiy  strongly.  The  basis  of  the  best  sealing  wax  is  shellac, 
mixed  with  resin,  earthy  matter,  to  give  it  body  and  coloring 
matter.  Sometimes  it  is  perfumed  by  the  addition  of  benzoin  or 
storax,  which  are  added  just  before  the  wax  is  allowed  to  cool. 

In  the  cheaper  kinds  of  wax,  resin  forms  the  chief  ingredient, 
but  it  causes  the  wax  to  become  too  liquid  wdien  melted,  so  that  it 
ruDS  into  drops  too  easily.  Of  late  years  a  cheap  resin  from  New 
Zealaud  has  been  substituted,  with  good  results,  for  the  more 
expensive  shellac. 

The  coloring  matters  used  are  ultramarine  and  cobalt  blue  for 
blues,  chromate  of  lead  for  yellow,  vermillion,  or  cinnabar,  for 
red,  bone  black  for  black,  etc.  For  the  cheaper  reds,  the  red  oxide 
of  iron  is  generally  used.  Chalk,  magnesia,  plaster  of  Paris,  zinc 
white,  sulphate  of  baryta,  Kaolin,  diatomaceous  earth,  etc.,  are 
used  to  give  body,  to  increase  the  weight  (wax  is  always  sold  by 
the  pound),  and  to  prevent  the  too  rapid  fusion  of  the  mass. 

The  following  formuke  seem  to  be  favorites  : 

Red.  1.  Fine  Carmine  Wax :  Venice  turpentine,  2  oz  ;  finest 
shellac,  4  oz.;  colophony,  1  oz.;  Chinese  vermillion,  11  oz.;  mag- 
nesia (moistened  with  oil  of  turpentine).  1\  drachms. 

2.  Finest  Red:  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ;  shellac,  7  oz.;  cin- 
nabar, 4  oz.;  carbonate  of  magnesia  (with  oil  of  turpentine),  U 
drachms. 


78  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

3.  As  the  last,  with  only  3i  oz.  of  cinnabar. 

4.  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz.;  shellac,  6i  oz.;  colophony,  i  oz.; 
cinnabar,  2i  oz  ;  magnesia  (with  oil  of  turpentine),  1A-  drachms. 

5.  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ;  shellac,  6  oz.;  colophony,  %  oz.; 
cinnabar,  ljf  oz  ;  magnesia  as  before. 

6.  As  the  last,  but  use  colophony  and  cinnabar,  each  li  oz, 

7.  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ;  shellac,  5|  oz  ;  colophony,  1A  oz.; 
cinnabar,  1|  oz  ;  magnesia  as  before. 

8.  English  :  Venice  turpentine,  2  oz.;  shellac,  4  oz.;  vermillion, 
1  oz 

9.  Spanish  :  Venice  turpentine,  8  oz  ;  shellac,  2  oz.;  colophony, 
4  oz  ;  vermillion,  1  oz.  Remove  from  the  fire,  and  add  |  oz.  of 
rectified  spirit. 

Bkown:  1.  Light  Brown  :  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ;  shellac, 
7A  oz.;  brown  earth  (English  umber?),  A  oz  ;  cinnabar,  £  oz  ; 
prepared  chalk,  A  oz  ;  carbonate  of  magnesia,  moistened  with  oil 
of  turpentine.  H  drachms. 

2.  Light  Brown  (second  quality) :  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz.; 
shellac,  7  oz  ;  resin,  3  oz  ;  English  umber,  3  oz.;  cinnabar,  {  oz  ; 
prepared  chalk,  1  oz.;  magnesia  as  the  last. 

3.  Dark  Brown:  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ;  fine  shellac,  1\  oz.; 
English  umber,  1|  oz  ;  magnesia  as  before. 

4.  Dark  Brown  (second  quality):  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ; 
shellac,  7  oz.;  colophony,  3  oz  ;  English  umber,  H  oz.;  magnesia 
as  before. 

Bluk.  1.  Shellac,  2  parts  ;  dammar  resin,  2  parts ;  Burgundy 
pitch,  1  part ;  Venice  turpentine,  1  part ;  artificial  ultramarine,  3 
parts. 

2.  Light  Blue :  As  the  last,  with  1  part  of  dry  sulphate  of 
lead. 

3.  Dark  Blue:  Venice  turpentine,  3  oz  ;  finest  shellac,  7  oz.; 
clear  amber  or  black  resin,  1  oz.;  Prussian  blue,  1  oz  ;  carbonate 
of  magnesia,  \\  drachms.  The  last  two  to  be  made  into  a  stiff 
paste  with  oil  of  turpentine,  and  added  to  the  melted  shellac  and 
Venice  turpentine. 

Black.  1.  Venice  turpentine,  4A  oz  ;  shellac,  9  oz  ;  colophony, 
A  oz.;  lamp  black  mixed  to  a  paste  with  oil  of  turpentine,  q  s. 

2.  Inferior:  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz.;  shellac,  8  oz.;  colophony, 
3  oz.,  and  sufficient  lamp  black  mixed  with  oil  of  turpentine  to 
color  it. 

3.  Shellac,  8  oz.;  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ;  lamp  black,  6  oz. 

4.  Common,  for  bottles:  Resin,  G  oz  ;  shellac,  2  oz  ;  Venice 
turpentine,  2  oz  ;  lamp  black,  q.  s 

Gkken.  Venice  turpentine,  2  oz  ;  shellac,  4  oz  ;  colophony,  1-} 
oz  ;  King's  yellow,  $  oz.;  Prussian  blue,  ^  oz  ;  magnesia  as  for 
brown. 

Gold.  1.  Venice  turpentine,  4  oz  ;  fine  shellac,  8  oz  ;  leaf- 
gold,  14  sheets,  bronze  powder,  A  oz  ;  magnesia  (made  into  a 
paste  with  oil  of  turpentine),  \\  drachms, 


SHAMPOOING  LIQUro-SILVER-PLATIN*;  MIXTURES.    79 

2.  Use  gold  talc  instead  of  gold  leaf  and  bronze. — Oka  v. 

Makrlrd. — Melt  each  colored  wax  separately,  and  just  as  they 
begin  to  grow  solid,  mix  together. — Gray. 

Ykixow. — Venice  turpentine,  2  oz.  ;  shellac,  4  oz. ;  colophony, 
1 1  oz  ;   King's  yellow,  :,'  oz.  ;  magnesia  as  before. 

Common  Bottle  Wax.-  1.  Dark  resin,  18  oz.  ;  shellac,  1  oz. ; 
beeswax,  1  oz.  Mix  together,  and  color  with  red  lead,  Venetian 
red,  or  lamp  black. 

2.  Resin,  19  oz.  ;  beeswax,  1  oz.  ;  color  as  before. 

Transparent  Sealing  Wax. — The  materials  used  for  making 
this  kind  of  sealing  wax  must  be  of  the  best  quality.  Fine 
bleached  shellac  is  used  and  mixed  with  mastic  and  very  fine 
viscid,  light  colored  turpentine  to  give  the  transparency.  The  fol- 
lowing formula?  furnish  a  ground  mass  which  may  be  colored  to 
suit: 

1.  Bleached  shellac,  30;  turpentine,  30;  mastic,  00;  chalk,  20. 

2.  Bleached  shellac,  30 ;  turpentine,  35  ;  mastic,  40 ;  zinc  white, 
20. 

Avrnturine  Sealing  Wax  is  made  by  stirring  finely  powdered 
yellow  or  bronze-colored  mica  into  melted  transparent  wax. 

Shampooing  Liquid. 

The  following  are  the  formulce  generally  offered  for  sale: 

1.  Salt  of  tartar,  2  oz. ;  alcohol,  1  pint ;  clear  rain  water,  1 
quart ;  perfume  to  suit. 

2.  Aqua  ammonia,  4  oz. ;  salt  of  tartar,  i  oz. ;  alcohol,  4  oz.  ; 
soft  water,  1  quart ;  perfume  to  suit. 

3.  Aqua  ammonia,  2  oz. ;  saltpetre,  J  oz  ;  castile  soap,  finely 
scraped,  1  oz. ;  perfume  to  suit. 

4.  Soft  water,  1  quart ;  sesquicarbonate  of  ammonia  and  car- 
bonate of  potash,  of  each  1  oz  ;  tincture  of  cantharides,  8  fl.  oz.  ; 
alcohol,  1  pint ;  good  rum,  5  quarts.  Agitate  the  whole  together, 
adding  a  little  scent  or  not,  at  will. 

Silver-Plating  Mixtures. 

A  great  deal  of  money  has  been  made  by  the  sale  of  these  mix- 
tures, which  under  some  circumstances  are  really  valuable  and  use- 
ful. Many  of  the  articles  that  are  sold  for  this  purpose  contain 
mercury  or  quicksilver  instead  of  real  silver,  and  they  invariably 
destroy  the  articles  to  which  they  are  applied.  Silvering  fluids  or 
powders  containing  mercury  should  never  be  used  unless  the 
articles  are  to  be  afterwards  exposed  to  a  red  heat  so  as  to  drive  off 
the  mercury.  A  silvering  fluid  which  is  very  commonly  sold  io 
housekeepers  under  the  name  of  Novargent  or  Plate  Renovit>r, 
consists  merely  of  nitrate  of  mercury  or  quicksilver.  When  rut>b?d 
on  a  copper  cent  or  a  brass  stair-rod  it  gives  it  at  once  a  bright 
silvery  surface,  but  the  brightness  soon  fades,  and  the  article,  if 
brass,  becomes  black  and  dirty,  while  if  it  should  be  a  piece  of 


«0  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

plated  ware,  it  will  be  ruined.  This  is  the  stuff  usually  sold  on 
street  corners  by  peddlers  who  pretend  to  convert  a  copper  cent 
into  a  silver  piece  and  claim  that  this  is  the  great  secret  of  the 
counterfeiters.  Silvering  fluids  and  powders  are  of  real  value  and 
are  used  in  many  of  the  arts  Thus  it  is  frequently  desired  to 
lightly  silver  a  me  al  surface,  such  as  brass  or  copper,  so  as  to  make 
any  figures  eugiaved  thereon  appear  more  distinct.  Clock  faces, 
dials  and  the  scales  of  thermometers  and  barometers  are  cases  in 
point,  and  if  the  surface  be  well  lacquered  with  white  lacquer  after 
being  silvered,  such  a  coating  is  very  durable.  Stair  rods  and  sim- 
ilar articles,  if  well  silvered  with  good  silvering  powder  aud  then 
lacquered  with  good  lacquer,  will  present  a  white  silvery  appear- 
ance for  a  long  time.  Plated  goods  should  be  re  coated  by  the 
electro-platiug  process  and  never  with  silvering  powder.  It  is 
generally  claimed  by  the  manufacturers  of  these  mixtures  that  the 
coating  of  silver  may  be  made  of  any  thickness  by  repeating  the 
operation.  Tiiis  is  not  true,  aud  no  such  claim  should  ever  be  made. 
The  coating  is  exceedingly  thin,  and  if  exposed  to  much  wear  soon 
rubs  off.  It  i3  not  a  deposit  like  the  electro  plate,  but  is  produced 
by  the  solution  of  part  of  the  brass  or  other  metal  and  the  deposi- 
tion of  silver  in  its  place.  But  when  well  lacquered  with  a  solution 
of  colorless  shellac,  the  silvering  thus  produced  will  retain  its 
beauty  for  years. 

1.  Silvkiung  Powdkr.— Nitrate  of  silver,  30  grains;  common  salt, 
30  grains;  cream  tartar,  200  grains.  Mix.  Moisten  with  water  and 
rub  on  the  article  with  wash  leather.  Gives  a  white  silvery  appear- 
ance to  brass,  copper,  etc. 

2.  Novakgknt. — Add  common  salt  to  a  solution  of  nitrate  of  silver 
until  the  silver  has  all  been  precipitated.  Wash  the  white  pre- 
cipitate of  chloride  of  silver  aud  add  a  strong  solution  of  hypo- 
sulphite of  soda  until  the  white  chloride  is  dissolved.  Mix  the 
resulting  clear  liquid  with  pipe-clay  which  has  been  finely  powdered 
and  thoroughly  washed.  In  some  recipes  whiting  is  directed  to 
be  used  instead  of  pipeclay.  Genuine  whiting  is  a  carbonate  of 
lime,  and  would  act  injuriously  on  the  salt  of  silver.  Pipeclay  is 
perfectly  inert  in  this  respect. 

3.  1  oz.  of  nitrate  of  silver  dissolved  in  one  quart  of  rain  or  dis- 
tilled water.  When  thoroughly  dissolved,  add  a  few  crystals  of 
hyposulphite  of  soda,  which  will  at  first  form  a  brown  precipitate, 
but  which  rcdissolves  if  sufficient  hyposulphite  has  been  employed. 
The  solution  may  be  used  by  simply  dipping  a  sponge  in  it,  and 
rubbing  it  over  the  article  to  be  coaled.  A  solution  of  gold  may  be 
made  and  used  in  the  same  manner. 

All  these  preparations  may  be  put  up  in  small  bottles,  and  if 
closed  witli  corks  that  have  been  well  coated  with  paraffine  will 
keep  for  years  if  carefully  excluded  from  the  light. 

Skins,  Preparation  of 

In  many  localities  skins  of  various  kinds  may  be  had  cheaply 


1  l;i  I' \  RATION  OP  SKINS.  81 

aid  iu  large  quantitiu,  and  if  nicely  prepared  with  the  hair,  wool 
01  fur  on,  they  may  be  converted  into  quite  a  number  of  useful 
articles.  Thus  beautiful  mats  may  be  made  of  the  skins  of  sheep, 
gcats  and  large  dogs;  the  skins  of  lambs,  cats,  small  dogs  and 
similar  animals  may  be  made  into  excellent  gloves  and  mittens, 
while  the  skins  of  rabbits,  cats  and  other  small  animals  make 
excellent  chest  protectors,  etc.,  and  if  neatly  finished  with  pretty 
binding,  etc.,  command  a  ready  sale.  The  following  methods  of 
preparing  them  have  been  tested  and  found  to  give  good  results: 

To  Pkki'ake  Siikhi*  Skins  bob  Mats.— 1.  Make  a  strong  soap 
lather  with  hot  water  and  let  it  stand  till  cold  ;  wash  the  fresh  skin 
in  it,  carefully  squeezing  out  all  the  dirt  from  the  wool ;  wash  it 
in  cold  water  till  all  the  soap  is  taken  out.  Dissolve  a  pound  each 
of  salt  and  alum  in  2  gallons  of  hot  water,  and  put  the  skin  into  a 
tub  sufficient  to  cover  it;  let  it  soak  for  12  hours  and  hang  it  over 
a  pole  to  drain.  When  well  drained,  stretch  it  carefully  on  a 
board  to  dry,  anil  stretch  several  times  while  drying.  Before  it  is 
quite  dry  sprinkle  on  the  flesh  side  1  oz  each  of  finely  pulverized 
alum  and  saltpetre,  rubbing  them  in  well.  Try  if  the  wool  be  firm 
on  the  skin ;  if  not,  let  it  remain  a  day  or  two,  then  rub  again  with 
alum  ;  fold  the  Ile3h  sides  together  and  hang  in  the  shade  for  two 
or  three  days,  turning  them  over  each  day  till  quite  dry.  Scrape 
the  flesh  side  with  a  blunt  knife  and  rub  It  with  pumice  or  rotten- 
stone.  Very  beautiful  mittens  can  be  made  of  lambs'  skins  pre- 
pared in  this  way. 

2  The  skins  with  the  wool  on  are  thoroughly  cleansed  from  all 
impurities  and  foreign  matter  that  may  adhere  to  them  by  washing 
in  running  water,  and  by  scraping  the  flesh  side  in  the  usual  man- 
ner by  the  knife.  The  skius  are  then  rounded,  as  it  is  termed,  by 
cutting  off  all  the  extraneous  and  ragged  parts,  when  they  are 
ready  to  be  tanned  ;  the  skius  are  for  that  purpose  stretched  upon 
frames,  and  laid  upon  trestles  with  the  flesh  side  of  the  skin 
upwards;  an  infusiou  of  sumach  in  the  proportion  of  1  lb.  to  a 
gallon  of  water  is  then  poured  over  the  skin,  and  the  tanning  mat- 
ter is  well  worked  into  the  pores  of  the  skin  by  the  aid  of  the  knife. 
When  dry,  the  reverse,  or  wool  side  of  the  skin,  is  next  placed 
upwards,  and  thoroughly  washed  with  a  strong  alkaline  soap  and 
water,  and  afterwards  in  fair  water,  by  which  means  the  grease 
and  filth  are  removed ;  when  this  is  dry,  the  skin  undergoes  a  sec- 
ond operation  of  tanning  with  the  sumach  as  before  mentioned, 
and  after  being  dried,  its  harsh  ami  rigid  surface  is  rendered 
smooth  and  soft  by  rubbing  it  over  with  pumice-stone.  In  order 
to  dye  it  of  any  color,  before  it  is  taken  off  the  frame,  its  face  or 
woolly  part  is  dipped  into  a  bath  of  the  required  tint,  prepared  in 
the  ordinary  manner  for  dyeing  wool;  the  washing  must  now 
again  be  repeated  to  get  rid  of  the  excess  of  coloring  matter  which 
adheres  to  it.  The  skins  being  then  dried  and  trimmed  to  the  pro- 
per shape  are  considered  complete  rugs,  and  are  ready  for  sale. 

3.  The  following  process  has  been  found  to  succeed  very  well 


82  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

with  sheep  skins,  dour  skins  anil  similar  hides :  Tack  the  skin  up">n 
a  board  with  the  flesh  side  out,  and  then  scrape  with  a  blunt  knile  ; 
next  rub  it  over  hard  with  pulverised  chalk,  until  it  will  absorb  no 
more.  Then  take  the  skin  off  from  the  board  and  cover  it  with 
pulverized  alum ;  double  half-way  over,  with  the  flesh  side  in  cm- 
tact  ;  then  roll  tight  together  and  keep  dry  for  three  days,  alter 
which  unfold  and  stretch  it  again  on  a  board  or  floor,  and  dry  in 
the  air,  and  it  will  be  ready  for  use. 

Skins  of  Rabbits,  Cats  and  Small  Animals. — Lay  the  skin 
on  a  smooth  board,  the  fur  side  undermost,  and  fasten  it  down 
with  tinned  tacks.  Wash  it  over  first  with  a  solution  of  salt:  then 
dissolve  2j  oz.  of  alum  in  1  pint  of  warm  water,  and  with  a  sponge 
dipped  in  this  solution,  moisten  the  surface  all  over;  repeat  this 
every  now  and  then  for  three  days.  When  the  skin  is  quite  dry 
take  out  the  tacks,  and  rolling  it  loosely  the  long  way.  the  hair 
side  in,  draw  it  quickly  backwards  and  forwards  through  a  large 
smooth  ring  until  it  is  quite  soft,  and  then  roll  it  the  contrary  way 
of  the  skin  and  repeat  the  operation.  Skins  prepared  in  this  way 
are  useful  in  many  experiments,  and  they  make  good  gloves  and 
chest  protectors. 

Smut  in  Wheat. 

What  is  ordinarily  known  as  smut  in  wheat  is  a  fungus  which 
seems  to  thrive  most  luxuriantly  when  growing  on  the  wheat  plant. 
The  fine  spores  (equivalent  to  seeds)  are  often  carried  by  the  wind, 
and  so  affect  fields  that  would  otherwise  be  free  from  this  pest ; 
but  the  most  common  method  of  propagation  is  by  the  adhesion  of 
the  spores  to  the  seed  grains,  when  they  grow  in  due  time  and 
destroy  the  young  grain. 

An  effective  remedy,  and  one  which  has  been  thoroughly  tried, 
consists  in  soakiug  the  seed  wheat  in  a  strong  solution  of  sulphate 
of  copper  (blue  vitriol),  after  which  it  should  be  thoroughly  rolled 
in  quick  lime.  Oxide  of  copper  is  in  this  way  deposited  on  the 
grain  and  covered  with  an  adhesive  coating  of  plaster  of  Paris. 
The  process  is  simple  and  inexpensive,  and  the  recipe  has  been 
sold  for  large  sums. 

Soldering  Fluid. 

This  is  an  old  and  well-known  preparation,  but  the  recipe  for 
it  is  often  sold  at  a  high  price  as  a  "secret."  The  ordinary  fluid 
is  merely  a  solution  of  chloride  of  zinc,  prepared  by  dissolving 
common  zinc  in  chlorhydric  acid  (also  called  hydrochloric  acid, 
muriatic  acid  and  spirit  of  salt),  until  the  acid  is  fully  saturated. 
This  solution  has  long  been  known  as  one  of  the  very  best  cleansing 
fluxes  for  low  temperatures,  such  as  those  used  in  soft  soldering. 
Melted  solder  at  once  flows  over  and  adheres  to  any  metallic 
surface  that  has  been  moistened  with  the  fluid  and  heated  to  the 
melting  point  of  the  solder.  It  will  clean  off  dirt,  and  even  rust  to 
a  slight  extent,  but  the  latter  is  always  best  removed  by  scraping. 


SOLDERING  FLUID.  83 

Small  "kits"  for  mending  tinware  command  a  ready  sale,  and 
by  cartful  attention  to  the  get  up  of  the  articles,  quite  a  business 
might  be  done  in  them.  A  soldering  iron  is  unnecessary,  as  the 
majority  of  people  are  unable  to  use  it  with  any  good  effect.  A 
candle  or  a  small  lamp  is  far  more  convenient,  and  for  fine  work 
an  alcohol  lamp  is  the  best  thing  to  use,  as  it  gives  no  smoke. 
The  solder  should  he  good,  and  may  either  be  in  drops  or  cut  into 
little  squares  about  as  heavy  as  No  1  shot,  or  it  mny  be  cut  into 
long  narrow  strips.  This  is  done  by  pouring  the  melted  solder, 
well  stirred,  into  a  flat  bottomed  metallic  vessel  like  a  frying  pan, 
rolling  it  out  thinner  if  necessary,  and  cutting  it  up  with  powerful 
shears  into  narrow  strips.  If  conveniences  for  rolling  the  solder 
cannot  be  had,  the  best  plan  will  be  to  cast  it  into  plates  as  thin  as 
possible,  and  cut  it  up  into  little  squares. 

With  a  little  care  and  skill  obtained  by  practice,  solder  may  be 
made  into  drops  in  somewhat  the  same  way  that  shot  is  manufac- 
tured. A  box  is  made  of  sheet  iron  by  simply  turning  up  the  sides 
of  a  piece  about  five  inches  square.  The  bottom  is  punched  full 
of  holes  about  a  sixteenth  of  hii  inch  in  diameter,  and  a  piece  of 
stout  wire  or  band-iron  is  fastened  to  it  to  serve  as  a  handle.  To 
prevent  the  solder  from  attaching  itself  to  this  sieve,  the  latter 
should  be  brushed  over  with  oil  and  heated  until  the  oil  decom- 
poses and  leaves  a  black  surface,  which  should  then  be  wiped 
clean,  but  not  to  such  an  extent  as  to  expose  the  metallic  surface. 
In  use,  the  sieve  is  held  over  a  pail  of  water;  the  melted  solder  is 
poured  into  it,  and  as  the  latter  flows  through  the  holes  it  separates 
into  drops,  which  congeal  as  they  reach  the  water.  The  size  and 
form  of  the  drops  will  depend  upon  the  temperature  of  the  solder, 
the  height  at  which  the  sieve  is  held  above  the  water,  and  the 
temperature  of  the  latter.  Of  course,  the  size  of  the  holes  in  the 
sieve  and  their  distance  apart  will  also  have  much  to  do  with  the 
result.  Holes  about  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch  in  diameter  and  half  an 
inch  apart  will  be  about  right  A  little  practice  will  soon  enable 
the  operator  to  get  the  drops  right. 

Another  form  in  which  the  solder  may  be  used  is  that  of  thin 
leaf  or  sheet.  Indeed,  we  have  often  used  the  ordinary  tinfoil 
used  in  wrapping  tobacco  and  in  making  the  caps  of  bottles;  and 
a  cheap  article  of  this  kind,  containing  a  large  proportion  of  lead, 
could  be  obtained  frem  the  tinfoil  manufacturers,  and  would  serve 
admirably. 

The  "kit"  and  the  method  of  using  it  should  be  about  as 
follows : 

1.  Solder,  in  the  form  of  drops,  slender  bars  or  thin  sheet. 
If  in  drops,  they  should  be  contained  in  a  neat  little  box. 

2.  Soldkking  Fluid,  prepared  as  previously  directed.  Many 
experts  think  that  the  addition  of  a  little  sal-ammoniac  improves 
the  fluid.  The  sal-ammoniac  should  be  dissolved  in  water  until 
the  latter  is  saturated,  and  then  I  part  of  this  solution  should  be 


84  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

mixed  with  3  parts  of  the  solution  of  zinc.     The  fluid  should  be  in 
a  bottle,  well  corked  with  a  paraffined  cork. 

3.  Tin  Patches.— These  should  be  square,  oblong  and  circular 
pieces  of  tin  of  various  sizes.  Circular  pieces  may  be  obtained  in 
any  quantity  for  almost  nothing  from  any  manufacturer  of  tinware, 
as  they  are  considered  waste,  and  are  in  general  thrown  away. 
As  they  come  from  the  factory  they  are  concave  or  dish-shaped, 
and  must  be  made  perfectly  flat  by  being  hammered  on  a  perfectly 
flat  anvil.  A  drop  press  would  be  better,  as  it  would  do  the  work 
more  rapidly  and  more  properly. 

4.  A  small  swab  of  cloth  attached  firmly  to  a  short  stick.  All 
these  things  should  be  packed  in  a  neat  paper  box,  with  a  proper 
label.  Various  names  might  be  devised  for  it,  such  as  "The 
Housekeeper's  Friend,"  "The  Universal  Tinker,"  etc.,  etc.  Full 
directions  should  accompany  each  kit,  and  these  may  either  be 
pasted  on  the  inside  of  the  box  cover,  or,  which  is  better,  got  up 
in  the  form  of  a  neat  little  pamphlet,  which  may  then  be  used  as 
an  advertisement  of  the  most  effective  kind.  The  pamphlet  or 
little  book  should  not  be  more  than  2.j  by  4^  inches,  and  from  four 
to  eight  pages,  and  will  cost  but  a  trifle.  With  such  a  kit  any 
little  piece  of  mending  may  be  done  to  tinware  and  similar  articles 
very  easily,  very  cheaply,  and  very  well.  Suppose  a  kettle  has  a 
small  hole  in  the  bottom.  The  outer  surface  of  the  kettle  is  scraped 
clean  around  the  hole  by  means  of  an  old  knife ;  the  metal  is  then 
moistened  with  soldering  fluid,  a  tin  patch  (as  supplied  with  the 
kit)  is  laid  over  it,  a  drop  or  two  of  solder  is  laid  at  the  edge  of  the 
patch,  and  the  patch  and  kettle  are  heated  at  this  spot  by  means  of 
a  lamp,  a  candle  or  a  hot  poker  until  the  solder  melts.  As  soon  as 
the  solder  melts,  the  lamp  or  poker  is  taken  away,  and  the  patch 
is  held  firmly  in  place  by  the  pressure  of  a  piece  of  wood  until  the 
whole  has  cooled  a  little.  The  article  is  then  mended  neatly  and 
durably.  The  soldering  fluid  should  be  carefully  washed  off,  and 
the  spot  rubbed  with  a  little  oil  or  tallow,  so  as  to  prevent  rust. 

The  soldering  fluid  itself  may  be  put  up  in  bottles,  and  will 
find  a  ready  sale  in  hardware  stores,  as  amateurs  and  others  find  it 
much  easier  to  use  than  resin  or  oil. 

Starch  Polish. 

Quite  a  number  of  recipes  for  "Starch  Polish,"  "Laundry 
Gloss,"  "Lustiine,"  etc.,  are  in  market;  but  the  basis  of  the  best 
seems  to  consist  of  white  wax,  spermaceti,  paraffine,  or  a  mixture 
of  these.  Various  additions,  such  as  salt,  borax,  etc.,  are  often 
prescribed,  but  they  are  quite  useless.  The  following  very  absurd 
recipe  has  been  frequently  sent  out,  and  is  copied  into  "Techno- 
Chemical  Receipts:"  Take  spermaceti,  gum-arabic  and  borax,  of 
each  If  oz  ;  glycerine,  4}  oz.;  distilled  water,  li  pints,  and  some 
sweet-scented  essence.  Four  spoonfuls  of  lustrine  are  directed  to 
be  added  to  4£  oz   boiling  starch. 

Equal  parts  of  white  wax  and  spermaceti,  melted  together, 


STARCH  POLISH-STOVE  POLISH-STYPTICS.  85 

poured  into  flat,  dishes  so  as  to  form  cakes  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  mid  then  cut  into  ritihI)  disks  about  half  an  inch  in  diameter 
by  means  of  a  common  gun  punch  or  a  tin  tube,  make  as  good  a 
shirt  polish  as  can  be  had  Paraltine  may  be  substituted  for  the 
wax.  One  of  the  small  cakes  serves  for  a  pint  of  boiling  starch. 
The  polish  should  be  added  to  the  starch  while  the  latter  is  hot, 
and  the  whole  well  stirred,  so  as  to  form  an  emulsion. 

In  selling  this  article  there  will  be  a  good  deal  in  a  name  and 
in  the  neat  manner  in  which  the  article  is  put  up. 

Stove  Polish. 

The  best  stove  polish  is  undoubtedly  the  pure  carbon  known  as 
graphite,  plumbago  or  black  lead,  and  the  stock  of  this  is  controlled 
by  one  or  two  large  concerns.  Several  recipes  for  liquid  polish 
have  been  sold.  The  following  are  the  ones  usually  sent  out. 
We  know  nothing  as  to  their  good  or  bad  qualities. 

1.  Mix  2  parts  of  copperas  [evidently  sulphate  of  copper  or  blue 
copperas— En.],  1  of  bone  black,  1  of  black  lead,  with  sufficient 
water  to  form  a  creamy  paste.  This  will  produce  a  very  enduring 
polish  on  a  stove  or  other  iron  article,  and  after  two  applications 
it  will  not  require  polishing  again  for  a  long  time,  as  the  copperas 
will  produce  a  jet  black  enamel  and  cause  the  black  lead  to  per- 
manently adhere  to  the  iron. 

3.  Black  lead,  1  lb.;  water,  4oz.;  turpentine,  4oz. ;  sugar,  1  oz. 
Mix  thoroughly.  To  be  applied  with  a  sponge,  brush  or  rag. 
[We  should  think  that  the  old  directions,  "  When  taken,  to  be 
well  shaken,"  would  apply  to  this  recipe.] 

3.  Black  lead  made  into  a  thin  paste  with  a  weak  solution  of 
silicate  of  soda  or  water  glass.  To  be  well  rubbed  when  applied. 
[This  seems  to  be  one  of  the  most  promisiug  of  the  numerous 
recipes  afloat.— Ed.] 

Styptics. 

Sometimes  a  very  small  vein  lying  near  the  surface  is  cut,  and 
bleeds  profusely  and  persistently.  No  danger  need  be  appre- 
hended, but  the  bleeding  is  annoying.  Such  wounds  are  common 
to  those  who  shave  themselves,  and  it  is  frequently  inconvenient 
to  have  to  wait  for  the  bleeding  to  stop  of  its  own  accord.  For 
such  wounds  the  following  styptic  pastes  and  powders  are  in 
demaud : 

1.  Powdered  alum,  gum  tragacanth  and  tannin,  equal  parts. 
Mix,  and  keep  in  well  corked  bottle. 

2.  Resin,  4  dr.;  eum  arabic,  1  dr.;  catechu,  1  dr.  Powder 
separately  and  mix  thoroughly.  This  is  the  French  officinal 
powder. 

3.  Baths's  Styptio  Wash. — Alum  and  white  vitriol,  of  each 
i  oz.;  water,  3  pints.     Dissolve  and  filter. 

This  is  powerfully  astringent,  and  is  used  as  a  wash  for  ulcers, 
eruptions,  etc.,  and  sometimes  as  an  injection. 


86  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

4.  Eaton's  Styptic  Wash.— Green  vitriol,  calcined,  1  dr.; 
proof  spirit,  tinged  yellow  with  a  little  oak  bark,  2  lbs. 

5.  Styptic  Pastk. — Equal  quantities  of  white,  green  and  blue 
vitriol,  flour  and  bole,  ground  to  a  fine  powder  and  made  into  a 
paste  with  a  little  vinegar. 

6  Impkovbd  Collodion  Styptic. — Take  collodion,  100  parts  ; 
carbolic  acid,  10;  tannin,  5;  benzoic  acid,  5.  Mix,  and  keep  in 
closely-stoppered  bottle.  It  is  best  applied  by  means  of  a  camel- 
hair  brush,  which  may  be  kept  in  the  mixture  attached  to  the 
stopper.  This  preparation  has  a  dark  brown  color,  leaves,  after 
evaporation,  a  tightly  adhering  film,  coagulates  the  blood  instan- 
taneously to  a  crusty  mass,  and  the  wound  under  this  covering 
heals  in  a  very  short  time. 

It  has  been  proved  that  hens  which  have  their  combs  frost- 
bitten do  not  lay  until  the  injury  is  quite  healed;  and  as  this 
accident  is  liable  to  occur  just  at  the  time  when  eggs  command 
the  highest  price,  the  loss  to  the  poultry  keeper  is  apt  to  be  heavy. 
To  prevent  this  the  operation  of  •'dubbing"  has  been  introduced. 
This  consists  in  cutting  oft'  the  combs  and  wattles  of  the  birds  as 
soon  as  they  are  full  grown  The  operation  is  performed  by 
rue  ins  of  a  pair  of  stout  shears,  and  is  attended  with  very  little 
danger.  Sometimes,  however,  the  bleeding  is  quite  profuse,  and 
in  such  cases  the  application  of  one  of  the  foregoing  powders  or 
washes  would  prove  very  efficient.  A  powder  would  be  most 
easily  put  up  and  transported,  and  is  as  good  as  any  other  form. 

Vinegar. 

Vinegar  is  an  article  in  such  general  use  that  it  always  com- 
mands a  market,  and  as  it  may  be  manufactured  on  any  scale, 
from  one  gallon  to  millions,  recipes  for  its  preparation  are  in  con- 
siderable demand.  That  a  really  good  article  of  vinegar  would 
command  a  wide  sale  and  yield  a  handsome  profit  there  can  be  no 
doubt,  but  the  quality  would  require  to  be  decidedly  superior. 
By  good  vinegar  we  mean  an  article  having  the  following  qualities: 
1,  purity ;  2,  strength ;  3,  fine  flavor.  It  i->  easy  to  make  strong 
vinegar  and  pure  vinegar  out  of  very  poor  materials,  but  to  get  a 
pure  and  strong  article  with  a  truly  fine  flavor  is  not  so  easy. 
Moreover,  as  it  is  very  easy  to  give  an  apparent  strength  to  vinegar 
by  means  of  cheap  mineral  acids,  the  temptation  to  this  form  of 
adulteration  is  very  great,  although  the  wrong  done  is  equally 
great.  Vinegar  is  a  wholesome  and  pleasant  condiment  which 
greatly  aids  digestion  in  many  cases,  and  its  functions  in  this 
respect  cannot  in  any  way  be  performed  by  sulphuric  acid, 
although  a  few  drops  of  the  latter  will  apparently  give  to  several 
gallons  of  weak  vinegar  a  great  degree  of  strength. 

If  we  except  the  vinegar  obtained  by  the  distillation  of  wood, 
etc.,  all  vinegar  is  produced  from  sugar,  which  is,  however,  first 
converted    iuto    alcohol.       When  vinegar  is  made  from  grain, 


VlNEGAIt-WAKlllN'C  FLUIDS  AND  COMPOUNDS.        87 

potatoes,  etc.,  the  starch  is  first  converted  into  sugar,  which  is 
then  changed  to  alcohol,  and  this  alcohol  by  oxidation  is  converted 
into  acetic  acid,  which  is  the  active  principle  of  all  vinegar.  So 
far  as  mere  strength  is  concerned,  therefore,  it  matters  not  whether 
we  use  grain,  potatoes,  fruits  or  corn  sugar;  in  every  case  we  will 
get  a  vinegar  which,  hy  proper  management,  will  be  pure  and 
strong.  The  flavor,  however,  may  not  be  up  to  the  mark, 
and  it  is  in  this  direction  that  success  will  probably  attend  the 
efforts  of  the  careful  manufacturer.  The  flavor  is  imparted  to  the 
vinegar  by  the  ethereal  essences  of  the  fruits,  etc.,  used  in  the 
manufacture;  and  by  care  in  the  selection  and  treatment  of  these 
fruits  it  would  be  possible  to  produce  a  table  vinegar  which,  when 
neatly  bottled,  would  command  a  high  price  for  table  purposes. 

Ordinary  vinegar  is  made  by  the  fermentation  and  acetification 
of  cider,  wine,  molasses,  etc.,  and  the  management  requires  no 
great  skill.  All  that  is  wanted  is  a  temperature  above  50  deg.  F. 
aud  plenty  of  air,  and  the  process  will  proceed  of  its  own  accord. 

In  France  the  grocers  keep  three  or  more  barrels  in  constant 
use.  As  soon  as  one  is  emptied  of  its  contents,  a  quantity  of  wine, 
mixed  witi  a  little  vinegar,  is  poured  in  so  as  to  rill  it  two-thirds 
full,  and  it  is  allowed  to  stand.  Barrel  No.  2  should  now  be  ready 
to  supply  vinegar,  and  is  drawn  upon  while  the  contents  of  barrels 
Nos.  1  and  3  are  working.  By  the  time  No.  2  is  empty,  No.  3  is 
ready,  so  No.  2  is  charged  afresh,  and  the  daily  supply  is  drawn 
from  No.  3.     By  the  time  No.  3  is  empty  No.  1  will  be  ready. 

The  recipes  offered  for  sale  are  quite  numerous,  and  differ  but 
very  slightly  from  the  following : 

Vinegar  from  Sugar. — Put  9  lbs.  of  brown  sugar  to  every  six 
gallons  of  water;  boil  it  for  a  quarter  of  an  hour,  and  then  pour  it 
in  a  tub  in  a  lukewarm  state;  put  to  it  a  pint  of  good  yeast,  let  it 
work  four  or  five  days,  stir  it  up  three  or  four  times  a  day,  then 
turn  it  into  a  clean  barrel,  iron-hooped,  and  set  full  in  the  sun. 

Vinegar  from  Sorghum. — For  40  gals,  take  8  gallons  of  syrup; 
put  this  in  first,  then  fill  with  rain  water.  If  you  can  get  filtered 
cistern  water  it  will  make  the  vinegar  clearer.  Add  a  teacupful 
of  hop  yeast,  then  set  the  barrel  in  a  warm  place  with  bung  open. 

Washing  Fluids  and  Compounds. 

Ever  since  Eve  changed  her  primitive  fig-leaf  for  garments  of 
more  complicated  and  elaborate  construction,  washing  has  been  a 
burden  to  the  sex — in  fact,  a  part  of  the  primeval  curse,  if  we  may 
judge  it  by  the  sentence  theu  pronounced — "In  the  sweat  of  thy 
brow  shalt  thou  eat  bread  ;"  for  although  this  may  be  said  to  apply 
only  to  ihe  mau,  yet  so  far  as  our  observation  has  gone,  au  opera- 
tion more  sweaty  than  that  of  washing  on  a  hot  day  it  would  be 
difficult  to  find.  Hence  any  means  which  will  promise  to  lessen 
this  labor  will  always  command  a  wide  and  liberal  support,  and 
hence  the  liberal  patronage  found  by  every  recipe  which  has  for 
its  title,  "  Washing  Made  Easy." 


88  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

The  majority  of  the  recipes  for  washing  compounds  are  simply 
slight  mollifications  of  the  well-known  chemical  formula  for  the  pre- 
paration of  caustic  potpsh  or  caustic  soda.  As  usually  found  in  mar- 
ket, soda  and  potash  are  in  the  form  of  carbonates,  and  they  do  not 
exert  the  same  intensity  of  action  that  these  alkalies  show  when 
deprived  of  their  carbonic  acid.  But  when  such  carbonates  are 
mixed  with  lime  that  is  freshly  burned— or,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  caustic — the  lime  seizes  the  carbonic  acid  and  forms  with  it 
an  iusoluble  compound  (chalk),  which  falls  to  the  bottom,  while 
the  alkali  becomes  pure  and  wonderfully  energetic.  It  will  dissolve 
grease  and  many  kinds  of  dirt  at  once,  and  without  any  necessity 
for  the  mechanical  action  of  rubbing.  Unfortunately,  however,  if 
concentrated,  it  will  corrode  many  kinds  of  cloth,  and  at  all  times 
it  exerts  a  severe  and  strong  action  on  the  skin  of  the  hands  and 
arms. 

Ammonia  is  a  milder  alkali,  which  is  often  substituted  for  the 
caustic  potash  and  soda,  and  a  small  quantity  added  to  the  water 
in  which  clotbes  are  washed  will  often  save  a  good  deal  of  labor. 

Borax  is  also  frequently  used  as  a  cleansing  agent,  and  with 
good  effect.  Borax  consists  of  soda  and  boracic  acid,  and  as  the 
acid  is  quite  weak  it  fails  to  fully  neutralize  the  alkaline  character 
of  the  soda,  and  the  latter  acts  much  in  the  way  that  washing  soda 
acts. 

Turpentine  has  been  frequently  recommended  as  a  valuable 
addition  to  washing  compounds,  but  the  most  diveise  opinions 
prevail  in  regard  to  its  ustfulness.  Some  persons  claim  for  it  an 
almost  magic  effect  in  cleaning  and  bleaching  clothes;  others 
condemn  it  as  most  injurious.  On  which  side  the  truth  lies  we 
are  unable  to  say,  as  we  have  had  very  little  experience  in  the 
matter.  It  is,  however,  a  well  known  fact  that  turpentine  exerts 
a  powerful  bleaching  action  under  some  conditions,  as  witness 
its  usefulness  in  bleaching  ivory.  But  to  get  the  proper  effect 
it  must  not  be  applied  in  too  great  quantity,  and  it  must  be  well 
exposed  to  light  and  air.  It  is  possible,  therefore,  that  failure  in 
its  use  as  an  ingredient  in  washing  C"mpounds  results  from  using 
it  in  too  great  quantity,  and  in  not  exposing  the  clothes  afterwards 
to  a  process  of  grass  bleaching. 

Javelle  water  is  a  very  effective  agent  in  bleaching  clothes,  but 
not  in  washiug  them,  for  which,  however,  we  have  seen  it  recom- 
mended. Javelle  water  should  never  be  mixed  with  the  ordinary 
washing  suds,  but  when  used  it  should  be  employed  separately. 
The  clothes  should  first  be  slightly  "soured'' with  a  little  acid, 
for  which  sulphuric  acid,  hydrochloric  acid,  or  pale  vinegar  may 
be  used.  They  should  then  be  steeped  for  a  short  time  in  a  solution 
of  the  Javelle  water,  and  afterwards  thoroughly  riused  out  in  clean 
water,  so  as  to  remove  all  traces  of  the  chemicals. 

As  regards  the  recipes  usually  offered  for  sale  for  washing 
compounds  the  following  are  the  principal  ones  in  market: 

1.     Sal-soda,  three  pounds;  best  uuslacked  lime,  three  quarters 


WASHING  FLUIDS  AND  COMPOUNDS.  89 

of  a  pound;  hot  water,  four  gallons.  Slake  the  lime  in  sufficient 
boiling  water ;  add  to  it  the  sal-soda,  previously  dissolved  in  the 
four  gallons  of  hot  water;  stir  the  whole  thoroughly,  and  allow  it 
to  rest  and  settle ;  pour  off  the  clear  liquid ;  bottle  in  clean  bottles, 
and  cork  tight  for  use.  To  two  pails  of  water  add  one  pint  of 
washing  fluid,  and  boil  the  clothes  in  it.  (It  is  belter  to  boil  the 
water  before  adding  the  fluid.) 

Tins  preparation  in  the  proportions  given  does  not  injure  the 
linen,  and  diminishes  the  amount  of  soap  and  rubbing  considerably. 

The  following  has  been  widely  distributed,  but  does  no'„  seem 
to  us  a  very  judicious  combination : 

2.  Take  two  pounds  of  the  best  brown  soap  ;  cut  it  up  and  put 
it  in  a  clean  pot,  adding  one  quart  of  clean  soft  water.  Set  over 
the  fire,  and  melt  thoroughly,  stirring  it  up  from  the  bottom 
occasionally.  Then  take  from  the  fire,  and  stir  in  one  tablespoon- 
ful  real  white  wine  vinegar,  two  large  tablespoonfuls  of  hartshorn, 
and  seven  large  tablespoonfuls  of  spirit  of  turpentine.  Having 
stirred  the  ingredients  well  together,  put  the  mixture  Immediately 
into  a  stone  jar;  cover  without  delay,  lest  the  hartshorn  evaporate. 
Keep  it  always  closely  covered.  When  going  to  wash,  nearly  fill 
a  six  or  eight  gallon  tub  with  soft  water,  as  hot  as  you  can  bear 
your  hand  in,  and  stir  in  two  large  tablespoonfuls  of  the  mixture. 
Putin  as  many  white  clothes  as  the  water  will  cover;  let  them 
soak  about  an  hour,  moving  them  about  in  the  water  occasionally. 
It  will  only  be  necessary  to  rub  with  the  hands  such  parts  as  are 
badly  soiled ;  the  ordinary  dirt  will  soak  out.  Wring  out  and  rinse 
well  through  two  cold  waters. 

3.  One  and  one  quarter  pound  of  washing  soda,  \  pound  borax, 
and  dissolve  in  4  quarts  water  by  boiling.  When  tue  mixture  ia 
cold  add  about  one  half  a  teacupful  of  water  of  ammonia  (harts- 
horn), and  bottle  for  use,  taking  care  to  keep  the  fluid  corked  from 
the  air.     For  use  take  a  cupful  to  a  pailful  of  water. 

4.  Sal-soda  and  borax,  \  lb.  each  ;  gum  camphor,  1  oz.;  alcohol, 
h  pint.  Dissolve  the  soda  and  borax  in  one  gallon  of  boiling  rain 
water,  pour  in  two  gallons  of  cold  rain  water,  add  the  camphor 
first  dissolved  in  the  alcohol,  stir  well  and  bottle  for  use.  Four 
tablespoonfuls  of  the  preparation  are  to  be  mixed  with  a  pint  of 
soft  soap,  and  the  clothes  boiled  in  a  suds  made  of  this.  It  is  all 
the  better  if  the  clothes  are  soaked  over  night,  before  putting  them 
into  the  suds. 

5.  Boll  2  lbs  of  soap  to  a  paste,  dilute  this  with  Gi  gallons  of 
water;  add  1  teaspoonful  of  s-pirit  of  turpentine  and  2tablespoon- 
fuls  of  ammonia,  and  heat  the  mixture  thoroughly.  The  water 
must  be  as  warm  as  the  hand  will  bear.  The  dry  clothes  arc  then 
soaked  in  this  for  two  hours  previously  to  washing  them.  The  tub 
containing  them  must  be  well  covered.  The  suds  can  be  again 
heated  and  used  once  more  by  adding  £  tablespoouful  of  spirit  of 
turpentine  and  1  tablespoouful  of  ammonia. 


90  TRADE  SECRETS  AND  PRIVATE  RECIPES. 

Yeast. 

The  manufacture  of  yeast  gives  rise  to  quite  an  extensive 
business  in  this  country,  as  a  very  large  proportion  of  the  familiea 
make  their  own  bread.  Yeast  as  ordinarily  sold  is  in  the  form  of 
cakes,  and  for  the  preparation  of  them  the  recipes  are  quite 
numerous.     The  following  are  the  usual  ones  : 

1.  Yeast  Cakes. — Put  into  3  pints  of  water  a  handful  of  hops, 
and  nearly  a  quart  of  pared  potatoes,  cut  into  small  pieces.  Boil 
for  ^  an  hour,  and  strain,  while  scalding  hot,  into  sufficient  flour  to 
make  a  stiff  batter.  Stir  it  weli,  adding  1  tablespoonful  of  fresh 
yeast,  and  set  it  in  a  warm  place  to  rise.  When  light,  mix  it  stiff 
with  Indian  meal,  roll  out  thin,  and  cut  into  round  cakes  or  square 
pieces  about  2k  inches  in  diameter.  Dry  these  thoroughly,  and 
they  will  remain  good  for  months  if  kept  in  a  moderately  dry  place. 

2.  Good  sized  potatoes,  1  doz.;  hops,  1  large  handful ;  yeast,  k 
pint ;  corn  meal,  sufficient  quantity. 

Boil  the  potatoes,  after  peeling,  and  rub  them  through  a 
colander,  boil  the  hops  in  two  quarts  of  water,  and  strain  into  the 
potatoes ;  then  scald  sufficient  Indian  meal  to  make  them  the  con- 
sistence of  emptyings,  and  stir  in  the  yeast  and  let  rise;  then,  with 
unscalded  meal  thicken  so  as  to  roll  out  and  cut  into  cakes,  drying 
quickly,  at  first,  to  prevent  souring.  They  keep  better,  and  soak 
up  quicker,  than  if  made  with  flour. 

An  important  point  in  regard  to  the  keeping  qualities  of  yeast 
cakes  is  that  it  should  neither  be  too  dry  nor  too  damp.  It 
perfectly  dry  it  seems  to  lose  all  its  power,  and  if  too  damp  it 
decomposes  and  beconis  putrid. 


Deceptive  and  Fraudulent  Recipes. 


In  the  previous  pages  we  have  given  only  those  recipes  which 
are  really  good,  or  are  defective  through  some  obvious  mistake 
either  on  the  part  of  the  originator  or  copyist.  Such  mistakes  are 
at  all  times  liable  to  occur,  but  they  do  not  lay  the  vendor  of  the 
recipe  open  to  the  charge  of  fraud,  since  no  fraudulent  intent  is 
apparent.  Of  such  worthless  recipes  the  number  is  very  great, 
and  the  wrong  consists  in  the  fact  that  the  vendors  sell  and  recom- 
mend them  without  any  positive  knowledge  as  to  their  value  or 
efficiency. 

Many  of  these  recipes  are  remarkable  for  their  complicated 
character,  and  for  the  introduction  of  useless  and  often  expensive 
ingredients,  which  are  ordered  merely  for  the  purpose  of  giving  a 
technical  appearance  to  the  formula.  Amongst  the  favorite  sub- 
jects for  which  such  recipes  and  "secrets"  are  offered  for  sale  are 
the  welding  and  tempering  of  steel,  the  taming  of  horses,  the 
trapping  of  game  and  wild  animals,  and  the  catching  of  fish. 
There  is  a  certain  air  of  mystery  about  all  these,  which  aids  greatly 
in  persuading  the  uninitiated  that  experts  peiform  their  work  by 
means  of  some  "  secret"  rather  than  by  the  careful  and  judicious 
application  of  common  knowledge  and  skilled  experience. 

Welding  and  tempering  recipes  are  great  favorites,  and  the 
most  extravagant  claims  are  made  for  many  of  them,  although 
their  composition  is  most  absurd.  The  following  has  been  offered 
to  us  on  three  several  occasions,  we  agreeing  to  pay  for  it  provided 
substantially  the  same  thing  was  not  to  be  found  in  our  private 
collection.     We  never  were  obliged  to  pay  for  it.     Here  it  is  : 

"To  make  Ikon  take  a  Bright  Polish  i.ikk  Steel. —  Pulverize 
and  dissolve  the  following  articles  in  1  qt.  hot  water:  blue  vitriol, 
1  oz  ;  borax,  1  oz  ;  prussiate  of  potash,  1  oz.;  charcoal,  1  oz.;  salt, 
ipint;  then  add  1  gal.  linseed  oil;  mix  well;  bring  your  iron  or 
steel  to  the  proper  heat,  and  cool  in  the  solution.  It  is  said  the 
manufacturers  of  the  Judson  governor  paid  $100  for  this  recipe, 
the  object  being  to  case-harden  iron  so  that  it  would  take  a  bright 
polish  like  steel." 

Any  person  familiar  with  the  working  of  iron  and  steel  knows 
that  the  above  will  not  case-harden,  and  that  so  far  as  hardening 
and  tempering  are  concerned,  it  is  no  better  than  coarse  fish  oil. 

Other  recipes  for  welding  are  equally  absurd,  and  many  of  them 
quite  injurious.     There  are  no  "secrets"  about  the  matter  that 


92  DECEPTIVE  AND  FRAUDULENT  EECIPES. 

are  worth  anything,  and  that  are  not  to  be  found  in  the  standard 
works  on  working  and  tempering  steel.  The  following  is  another 
sample  of  these  complicated  but  worthless  formulae : 

Substitute  for  Borax. — Alum,  2  oz.;  dilute  with  water  and 
mix  with  2  oz.  potash,  boil  in  a  pot  half  an  hour  over  a  gentle  fire, 
take  it  out  of  the  water,  add  2  oz.  gem  salt  in  powder,  as  much  of 
alkaline  salt,  3  lbs.  honey,  and  1  of  cow's  milk  ;  mix  all  together, 
set  it  in  the  sun  for  three  days,  and  the  borax  is  ready  for  use. 
This  will  go  twice  as  far  in  a  blacksmith's  shop  as  common  borax. 

But  many  of  these  recipes  are  not  only  worthless,  but  actually 
dangerous  ;  as  where  certain  parties  offer  for  sale  a  powder  which 
is  warranted  to  prevent  any  oil  or  burning  fluid — no  matter  how 
poor—  from  exploding.  This  powder  consists  of  alum,  common 
salt,  and  a  little  sal-ammoniac,  and  is  not  only  entirely  worthless 
for  the  purpose  for  which  it  is  sold,  but  is  actually  dangerous, 
from  the  fact  that  it  engenders  undue  confidence,  and  in  this  way 
is  likely  to  lead  to  accidents.  No  powder  can  be  produced  which 
will  make  a  safe  oil  out  of  one  that  is  unsafe. 

Similar  recipes  are  sold  for  the  manufacture  of  burning  fluids 
which  are  claimed  to  be  perfectly  safe.  One  of  these,  that  for 
"  The  Great  Northern  Light  Burning  Fluid,"  is  as  follows  : 

Get  good  deodorized  benzine,  GO  to  65  gravity,  and  to  each  bbl. 
of  42  gals,  add  2  lbs.  pulverized  alum,  3A  oz.  gum  camphor,  and 
3i  oz.  oil  of  sassafras,  or  2  oz.  oil  bergamot ;  stir  up  and  mix 
thoroughly  together,  and  it  will  soon  be  ready  for  use. 

The  only  recommendation  which  such  a  fluid  has  is  that  it  is 
cheap,  since  benzine  is  a  bye-product  for  which  the  demand  is 
scarcely  ever  equal  to  the  supply.  But  none  of  the  drugs  prescribed 
in  the  above  formula  will  render  benzine  non-explosive. 

Strange  to  say,  amongst  the  recipes  in  greatest  request  are  those 
for  fraudulent  imitations  of  articles  for  which  there  is  a  general 
demand.  Imitation  wine,  brandy,  gin,  and  various  articles  of 
domestic  use  can  always  be  sold  in  large  quantities,  and  the  profit 
on  such  sales  used  to  be  enormous  until  competition  cut  it  down 
here  as  it  does  in  everything  else.  Such  recipes,  however,  are  not 
legitimate  subjects  of  sale,  and  fortunately  they  are  rarely  of  any 
use.  To  make  a  fair  article  of  imitation  brandy  requires  more  than 
a  mere  recipe;  skill,  experience  and  well-trained  taste  must  be 
employed,  or  the  result  will  be  anything  but  a  saleable  product. 

Professed  secrets  for  the  taming  of  horses  and  other  animals 
are  often  subjects  of  sale,  but  it  rarely  happens  that  they  are  of 
any  use  to  the  purchaser.  Success  in  such  operations  depends 
chiefly  upon  skill,  judgment  and  powerful  personal  influence; 
and  though  these  may,  in  a  measure,  be  imparted  by  instruction 
and  careful  traiuing,  yet  success  does  not  depend  upon  any 
"secret."  The  celebrated  Rarey  probably  told  all  he  knew  about 
his  methods  of  taming  horses,  yet  none  of  his  pupils  ever  attained 
the  success  shown  by  their  master,  and  very  few  were  ever  able  to 
accomplish  anything  at  all. 


DECEPTIVE  AND  FRAUDULENT  RECIPES.  93 

The  power  which  certain  individuals  are  able  to  exert  over 
animals  is  often  very  wonderful,  and  that  it  is  a  personal  and 
individual  qualification  is  unquestionable.  Even  animals  so  low 
in  the  scale  of  life  as  insects  are  amenable  to  such  influences,  and 
it  is  a  thoroughly  proved  fact  that  there  are  certain  individuals 
whom  even  irritated  bees  will  not  sting.  Of  course  we  do  not  now 
allude  to  the  tricks  of  those  so  called  "Bee  Kings"  who  exhibit 
bees  at  fairs,  and  handle  them  as  if  they  were  so  much  wheat. 
Their  control  depends  upon  two  things :  The  influence  of  the 
queen  or  mother  bee,  and  the  fact  that  bees  when  gorged  with 
honey  will  not  sting  unless  they  are  subjected  to  actual  violence. 
Taking  advantage  of  these  two  principles,  bees  may  be  made  to 
cluster  in  festoons  from  the  beard,  the  arm,  or  from  a  pole  ;  and 
they  may  be  made  to  walk  from  one  box  to  another  without  the 
least  difficulty.  But  over  bees  which  are  in  their  own  hive  and 
with  their  own  queen,  but  irritated  without  being  gorged,  these 
mountebanks  have  no  power;  although  it  is  on  record  that  certain 
persons  have  shown  complete  immunity  from  their  stings,  while 
others,  even  professional  bee-keepers,  were  unable  to  stand  their 
ground. 

In  the  case  of  the  horse  and  other  animals  this  principle  obtains 
to  a  still  greater  extent,  and  men  have  been  known  who  could 
subdue  otherwise  vicious  horses  by  their  mere  presence.  Whether 
Borrow  intended  to  relate  fact  or  fiction  iu  his  story  of  the  Irish 
blacksmith,  told  in  "  Lavengro,"  we  do  not  know.  It  is  apparently 
told  as  true,  and  Borrow  was  a  trustworthy  author.  He  tells  us 
that  in  a  wild  part  of  Ireland  he  had  occasion  to  have  bis  horse 
shod,  and  the  following  is  his  graphic  account  of  the  effect  on  the 
horse  of  certain  words  uttered  by  the  smith:  "Can  you  do  this, 
agrah?"  said  the  smith,  and  he  uttered  a  word  which  I  had  never 
heard  before,  in  a  sharp,  pungent  tone.  The  effect  upon  myself 
was  somewhat  extraordinary ;  a  strange  thrill  ran  through  me ; 
but  with  regard  to  the  cob  it  was  terrible  ;  the  animal  forthwith 
became  like  one  mad,  and  reared  and  kicked  with  the  utmost 
desperation. 

'•  Can  you  do  that,  agrah  ?''  said  the  smith. 
"  What  is  it ?'*  said  I,  retreating;    "I  never  saw  the  horse  so 
before.'' 

"Go  between  his  legs,  agrah,"  said  the  smith, — "his  hinder 
legs;"  and  he  again  showed  his  fury. 

" I  dare  not,"  said  I ;   "he  would  kill  me.'' 
"He  would  kill  ye  I     And  how  do  you  know  that,  agrah  ?" 
"I  feel  he  would,''  said  I ;   "  something  tells  me  so." 
"And  it  tells  ye  the  truth,  agrah ;    but  it's  a  fine  beast,  and  it's 
a  pity  to  see  him  in  such  a  state :    Is  agam  an't  leigas" — and  here 
he  uttered  another  word  in  a  voice  singularly  modified,  but  sweet, 
and  almost  plaintive.     The  effect  of  it  was  as  instantaneous  as 
that  of  the  other — but  how  different !    The  animal  lost  all  its  fury, 
and  became  at  once  calm  and  gentle.    The  smith  went  up  to  it, 


94  DECEPTIVE  AND  FRAUDULENT  RECIPES. 

coaxed  it  and  patted  it,  making  use  of  various  sounds  of  endear- 
ment ;  then,  turning  to  me,  and  holding  out  once  more  the  grimy 
hand,  he  said:  "And  now  ye  will  be  giving  me  the  Sassenach 
tenpence,  agrah  ?" 

Such  is  Borrow's  account  of  a  most  remarkable  experience. 
He  gives  it  as  a  fact,  and 

"  I  know  not  how  the  truth  may  be ; 
I  tell  the  tale  as  'twas  told  to  me." 

The  stories  told  about  the  exploits  of  the  Irish  horse-tamer, 
Sullivan,  known  as  the  "  Whisperer,"  are  quite  as  marvellous, 
but  some  of  the  best  authorities  believe  that  they  are  greatly 
exaggerated. 

The  command  which  some  persons  are  able  to  exert  over 
savage  animals,  such  as  lions  and  tigers,  is  often  so  great  as  to  be 
marvelous,  but  it  does  not  depend  upon  any  secret  which  can  be 
imparted  to  others  and  we  very  rarely  hear  of  a  lion-tamer 
instructing  pupils  with  any  degree  of  success.  The  power  is  a 
personal  endowment  which  cannot  be  imparted. 

The  same  is  true  of  the  so  called  mesmeric  influence.  Some 
persons  have  the  power  of  inducing  the  hypnotic  condition  in 
others,  but  this  is  not  a  power  which  depends  upon  any  secret 
act  or  word  that  can  be  imparted  by  means  of  a  recipe  or  formula, 
though  the  recipe-mongers  claim  that  it  is,  and  offer  to  furnish 
directions. 

It  is  true  that  there  are  certain  "secrets"  known  to  burglars 
and  horse-thieves,  by  which  some  dogs  may  be  quieted  and  some 
horses  made  to  follow  one  like  a  dog.  These  methods  depend 
upon  the  influence  exerted  by  the  females  at  certain  seasons  over 
the  male  of  the  same  species,  and  can  be  described  and  explained 
by  any  veterinary  surgeon,  though,  for  obvious  reasons,  we  cannot 
explain  them  fully  in  this  place. 

The  very  same  principles  furnish  the  most  potent  means  of 
attracting  and  trapping  wild  animals  and  fish,  and  the  most  suc- 
cessful methods  are  those  which  follow  them  mo3t  closely  in 
practice.  Various  vegetable  and  animal  drugs  possess  an  odor 
which  produces  a  similar  effect,  and  the  rubbing  of  baits,  traps, 
etc.,  with  them  has  been  practiced  from  time  immemorial.  We 
all  know  how  the  cat  is  attracted  by  valerian,  and  oils  of  anise, 
rhodium,  amber,  and  sweet  fennel  seem  to  have  similar  attractions 
for  other  animals.  So  have  assafcelida,  musk  and  similar  perfumes. 
The  following  are  some  of  the  directions  usually  given  : 

Fish  Oil  is  made  by  mincing  eels,  bass,  trout,  or  other  small 
fish,  and  allowing  the  pieces  to  remain  in  a  loosely  corked  bottle 
exposed  to  the  rays  of  the  sun  for  two  or  three  weeks  during  the 
heat  of  summer,  until  a  sort  of  oil  is  generated,  which,  owing  to 
its  very  intense  odor,  is  perceived  by  wild  animals  at  an  immense 
distance  and  forms  a  most  attractive  scent. 

Muskkat  Musk,  a  most  powerful  scent,  is  an  oil  obtained  from 
that  animal,  and  is  contained  in  glandular  sacs  situated  near  the 
anus. 


DECEPTIVE  AND  FltAUWT.KXT  IJKCIPKS.  95 

Castokrum,  called  Bark-ttoru  by  the  fur  traders,Ri8  a  fatty 
substance  of  an  intensely  strong  odor  contained  in  similar  sacs  in 
the  back  parts  of  the  beaver.  Il  forms  a  more  attractive  scent  for 
that  animal  than  any  other. 

Ottkr  Musk,  derived  in  a  similar  way  from  the  otter,  is  very 
successful  in  attracting  that  animal. 

A  mixture  composed  of  equal  parts  of  fish  oil,  assaf<etida, 
muskrat  musk  and  oil  of  anise,  is  said  by  old  trappers  to  be  the 
most  attractive  scent  obtainable  for  almost  any  animal.  The  odor 
reaches  far  and  wide,  forming  what  a  Frenchman  would  call 
"one  grand  stink"  of  the  first  magnitude.  It  is  used  on  baits  for 
traps,  and  for  sceuting  trails  leading  to  the  traps  by  sprinkling  it 
in  successive  drops  on  the  ground. 

A  rank  codfish  drawn  along  on  the  earth  by  means  of  a  string, 
in  a  direction  leading  to  the  traps,  will  also  answer  this  last  named 
purpose  very  well. 

Muskrat  musk  and  skunk  musk  mixed  are  said  to  be  very 
effective,  and  the  recipe  has  been  sold  for  $75. 

A  singular  recipe  for  this  purpose,  which  has  been  said  to  have 
been  sold  for  large  sums,  is  the  following: 

"Take  unslaked  lime,  h  lb  ;  sal-ammoniac,  3  oz  ;  or  muriate  of 
ammonia,  3  oz.  Mix  and  pulverize  ;  keep  in  a  corked  bottle  a  few 
days  until  a  thorough  admixture  takes  place.  For  mink,  sprinkle 
on  the  bait  around  the  trap.  Keep  it  in  a  closely-stoppered 
bottle." 

This  is  simply  a  mixture  for  generating  ammonia. 

But  while  some  of  the  recipes  we  have  just  enumerated  may  bo 
worthless  or  defective  in  some  points,  and  so  tend  to  raise  expecta- 
tions which  are  not  fulfilled,  there  is  a  certain  class  of  advertise- 
ments for  which  this  excuse  cannot  be  offered.  Their  very  incep- 
tion indicates  fraud  and  a  desire  to  deceive.  In  regard  to  them  a 
few  words  may  not  be  out  of  place. 

First  on  the  list  of  such  recipes  are  those  of  which  that  by 
"Rev."  Inman  is  a  type.  These  recipes  are  offered  gratis  to  those 
who  are  afflicted  with  certain  common  diseases  (such  as  consump- 
tion, rheumatism,  etc.);  but  when  the  patient  takes  them  to  a 
druggist  to  be  made  up  he  fiuds  that  one  or  more  of  the  ingredients 
are  not  to  be  obtained  through  the  ordinary  channels  of  trade,  and 
he  is  forced'to  apply  to  the  vendor  of  the  recipe  in  order  to  have 
the  prescription  filled.  Of  course  the  latter  can  supply  the  needed 
article,  for  it  is  probably  some  cheap  and  worthless  drug,  easily 
procured  under  its  common  name,  but  entirely  unknown  to  phar- 
macists under  the  fanciful  name  used  by  the  advertiser  of  the 
recipe.  This  necessary  correspondence,  however,  serves  as  an 
entering  wedge  for  Inman  or  any  other  of  his  class;  he  manages 
in  this  way  to  get  an  order  for  the  medicine,  when,  if  he  had 
advertised  it  for  sale  in  the  first  place,  he  never  would  have 
secured  a  customer.  The  fraud  is  a  clever  one,  but  it  is  old,  and 
has  been  so  frequently  exposed  that  one  would  think  that  nobody 


9G  DECEPTIVE  AND  FRAUDULENT  RECIPES. 

could  be  taken  in  by  it.  And  yet  such  vampires  seem  to  thrive, 
for  they  do  business  on  a  large  scale,  showing  that  the  influence  of 
even  the  best  journals  is  not  quite  co-extensive  with  humanity. 
As  last  as  the  old  and  well  informed  drop  off,  new  victims, 
unfamiliar  with  these  "tricks  that  are  vain,"  grow  up  to  take 
their  places. 

Another  kind  of  fraudulent  recipe  professes  to  instruct  in  some 
art,  and  to  tell  some  secret  of  great  value,  when  the  "secret"  is 
really  no  secret  at  all,  and  the  process  entirely  worthless.  One  of 
the  best  illustrations  of  this  is  the  famous  "butter  secret,"  so-called. 
Dealers  in  this  secret  insert  advertisements  stating  that  for  a  small 
consideration  they  can  furnish  a  recipe  for  a  powder,  which,  when 
added  to  milk,  will  cause  the  production  of  an  unusual  quantity  of 
butter.  They  even  show  the  powder,  and  by  its  action  they 
manage  to  produce  from  ordinary  milk  a  mass  which  they  pretend 
to  be  butter,  and  which  they  claim  would  have  been  very  nice  if 
the  milk  had  not  been  too  hot,  or  too  cold,  or  something  else. 
But  there  is  the  butter  apparently,  such  as  it  is.  Now  in  this  case 
the  butter  is  no  butter  at  all,  but  only  curd,  and  the  whole  thing 
is  a  fraud.  The  following  is  the  composition  of  the  "  Butter- 
powder:" 

"Take  4  oz.  pulverized  alum,  ^  oz.  pulverized  gum-arabic, 
50  gr.  of  pepsin ;  place  in  a  bottle  for  use  as  required.  A  tea- 
spoonful  of  this  mixture  added  to  1  pint  of  new  milk  will,  upon 
churning,  make  1  lb.  of  butter." 

In  the  same  class  may  be  placed  the  recipes  for  "Egg-powder" 
and  "Butter-powder,"  as  well  as  the  articles  themselves.  These 
articles  are  sold  as  substitutes  for  eggs  and  butter  in  making  cake, 
but  all  those  that  have  come  under  our  notice  were  simply  the 
ordinary  baking  powder  colored  with  a  little  turmeric,  so  as  to 
give  the  cake  or  bread  the  rich  yellow  which  is  imparted  by  eggs 
and  butter.  Of  course,  these  powders  cause  cake  and  pastry  to 
rise,  just  as  ordinary  baking  powders  act,  but  they  contain  none  of 
the  nutriment  and  richness  of  the  real  eggs  and  butter. 


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Being  a  complete  guide  for  the  plasterer,  in  the  preparation  and  application 
of  all  kinds  of  Plaster.  Stucco.  Portland  Cements,  Hydraulic  Cements,  Lime 
of  Tiel,  Rosendale  and  other  Cements.  To  which  is  added  an  Illustrated 
Glossary  of  Technical  Terms  used  by  plasterers,  with  hints  and  suggestions 
regarding  the  working,  mixing  and  preparation  of  scagliola  and  colored 

mortars  of  various  kinds.    Cloth,  Gilt, $1.00 

•lust  the  book  for  Plasterers,  Bricklayers,  Masons,  Builders,  Architects  and 
Engineers. 

The  Builder's  Guide  and  Estimator's  Price  Book. 

Being  a  Compilation  of  Current  Prices  of  Lumber,  Hardware.  Class, 
Plumbers'  Supplies,  Paints,  Slates,  Stones,  Limes,  Cements.  Bricks,  Tin, 
and  other  Building  Materials  ;  also,  Prices  of  Labor,  and  Cost  of  Perform- 
ing the  Several  Kinds  of  Work  Required  in  Building.  Together  with  Prices  of 
Doors,  Frames,  Sashes.  Stairs,  Mouldings,  Newels,  and  other  Machine  Work. 
To  which  is  appended  a  large  Dumber  of  Building  Rules.  Data.  Tables,  and 
Useful  Memoranda,  with  a  Glossary  of  Architectural  and  Building  Terms. 
By  Frko.  T.  Honosox,  Editor  of  "The  Builder  and  Wood-Worker,"  Author 
of  "The  steel  Square  and  lt<  Uses,"  etc.,  etc.     12mo.,  cloth,       -  '    $2.00 


Easy  Lessons ;  or,  The  Stepping  Stone  to  Architecture. 

Consisting  of  a  Series  of  Questions  and  Answers  Explaining  in  Simple 
Language  the  Principles  and  Progress  of  Architecture  from  the  earliest 
times.  By  Thomas  MITCHELL.  Illustrated  by  nearly  150  Engravings.  New 
Edition  with   American  additions, 50c. 

Architecture  is  not  only  a  Profession  and  an  Art,  but  an  imporlant  branch 
ul. 'very  liberal  education.  No  person  can  be  said  to  be  well  educated  who  has 
not  some  knowledges  of  its  general  principles  and  of  the  characteristics  of  the 
different  styles.  The  present  work  is  probably  the  best  architectural  text-book 
for  beginners  ever  published.  The  numerous  illustrative  engravings  make  the 
subject  very  simple  and  prevent  all  misunderstanding.  It  tells  about  the  dif- 
ferent styles,  their  peculiar  features,  their  origin  and  the  principles  that  under- 
lie their  construction. 

Buck's  Cottage  and  Other  Designs. 

Just  the  book  you  want  if  you  are  going  to  build  a  cheap  and  comfortable 
home.  It  shows  a  great  variety  of  cheap  and  medium-priced  colt  ages,  be- 
sides a  number  of  useful  hints  and  suggestions  on  the  various  questions 
liable  to  arise  in  building,  such  as  selection  of  site,  general  arrangement  01 
the  plans,  sanitary  questions,  etc.  Cottages  costing  from  S500  to  $">.<><mi  are 
shown  in  considerable  variety,  and  nearly  every  taste  can  be  satisfied. 
Forty  designs  for  fifty  cents.    Paper,     -------       60c. 

The  intormation  on  site,  general  arrangement  of  plan,  sanitary  matters,  etc., 
etc.,  is  worth  a  great  deal  more  than  the  cost  of  the  book. 

Water-Closets. 

A  Historical,  Mechanical  and  Sanitary  Treatise.  By  Glenn  Brown,  Archi- 
tect; Associate  American  Institute  of  Architects.  Neatly  Bound  in  Cloth, 
with  Gilt  Title, $1.00 

This  book  contains  over  250  Engravings,  drawn  expressly  for  the  work  by  the 
author.  The  drawings  are  so  clear  that  the  distinctive  features  of  every  device 
are  easily  seen  at  a  glance,  and  the  descriptions  are  particularly  full  and 
thorough.  The  paramount  importance  of  this  department  of  the  construction 
ol  our  houses  renders  all  comment  upon  the  value  of  such  a  work  unnecessary. 

Hints  and  Aids  to  Builders. 

Hints  and  Aids  in  Building  and  Estimating.  Gives  Hints,  Prices,  tells  how 
to  Measure,  explains  Building  Terms,  and,  in  short,  contains  a  fnnfl  of  in- 
formation for  all  who  are  interested  in  building.    Paper.   -       -       -       26a 


Common  Sense  in  the  Poultry  Yard. 

A  Story  of  Failures  and  Successes.  Including  a  full  account  of  1,000  Hens 
and  What  They  Hid.  With  a  complete  description  of  the  Houses,  Coops, 
Fences,  Runs.  Methods  of  Feeding,  Breeding,  Marketing,  etc.,  etc.  And 
Many  New  Wrinkles  and  Economical  Hodges.  By  J.  P.  Haul  With 
numerous  illustrations.    12mo.,  Cloth,  Gilt, $1.00 

A  most  interesting  narrative,  which  embodies  the  actual  experience  of  many 
years  in  the  keeping  of  poultry  in  large  and  small  numbers. 


Hints  for  Cabinet  Makers,  Upholsterers,  and  Furniture  Men. 
Hint*  and  Practical  Information  for  Cabinetmakers,  Upholsterers,  and  Fur- 
niture Men  generally.  Together  with  ;i  description  of  all  kinds  of  Finishing, 
with  lull  directions  therefor,  Varnishes,  Polishes,  Stains  for  Wood,  Dyes  for 
Wood,  Gilding  and  Silvering,  Receipts  for  the  Factory,  Lacquers,  Metals, 
Marbles,  etc.;  Pictures,  Engravings,  etc.;  Miscellaneous.  This  work  con- 
tains ;m  immense  amounl  of  the  mosl  useful  information  for  those  who  are 
engaged  In  Manufacture,  Superintendence,  <>r  Construction  of  Furniture  or 
Wood  Work  of  any  kind,  n  Is  one  of  the  Cheapest  and  best  Books  ever 
published,  and  contains  over  1,000  Mints.  Suggestions,  Methods,  and  De- 
scriptions of  Tools,  Appliances  and  Materials.  All  the  Redoes,  Rules,  and 
Directions  have  been  carefully  Revised  and  Corrected  by  Practical  Men  ol 
great  experience,  bo  thai  they  will  be  found  thoroughly  trustworthy     <  loth, 

(Hit, SI. (Ml 

Mechanical  Draughting. 

The  Student's  Illustrated  Guide  to  Practical  Draughting.  A  series  ol'  Prac- 
tical instruction^  tor  Machinists,  Mechanics,  Apprentices,  and  students  at 
Engineering  Establishments  and  Technical  Institutes  By  T.  P.  PEMBERTON, 
Draughtsman  and  Mechanical  Engineer.  Illustrated  with  numerous  en- 
gravings.    Cloth,  Gilt, $1.00 

This  tea  simple  but  thorough  book,  by  a  draughtsman  ol  twenty-five  years1 
experience.  It  Is  Intended  for  beginners  and  self-taught  students,  as  well  as  for 
those  who  pursue  the  study  under  the  direction  of  a  readier. 

Lectures  in  a  Workshop. 

ByT.  P.  Pkmiskrton,  formerly  Associate  Editor  of  the  "Technologist;" 
author  of  "  The  Student's  Illustrated  Guide  to  Practical  Draughting."  With 
an  appendix  containing  the  famous  papers  by  Whitworth  "On  Plane  Me- 
tallic Surfaces  or  True  planes;"  ••on  an  Uniform  System  of  Screw  Threads;" 
"Address  t<>  the  Institution  of  Mechanical  Engineers.  Glasgow;"  "On 
standard  Decimal  Measures  of  Length."    Cloth,  Gilt,       -       -       -       Si. on 

We  have  here  a  sprightly,  fascinating  book,  full  of  valuable  hints,  interesting 
anecdotes  and  sharp  Bayings.  It  is  not  a  compilation  of  dull  sermons  or  drj 
mathematics,  but  a  live*  readable  book.  The  papers  by  Whitworth,  now  first 
made  accessible  to  the  American   reader,  form  the  basis  of  OUT  modern  Bystems 

Of  accurate  work. 

How  to  Use  The  Microscope. 

By  John-  Phin.  Fifth  Edition.  Greatly  enlarged,  with  over  eighty  Illustra- 
tions in  the  Text,  and  six  full  page  Engravings,  printed  on  heavj  tint 
paper.    Cloth, Gilt, Si. no 

This  is  not  a  book  describing  what  may  be  seen  by  the  microscope,  bur  a  Simple 
and   practical  work,  telling  how  to  use  the  instrument  in  its  application  to  the 

arts.     It  ha- I u  prepared  tor  the  use  of  those  who,  having   no  knowledge  of 

the  use  of  the  microscope,  or,  indeed,  of  any  scientific  apparatus,  desire  simple 
and  practical  instruction  in  the  best  methods  of  managing  the  instrument  and 
preparing  objects. 


1  he  Engineer's  Slide  Rule  and  Its  Applications. 

A  Complete  Investigation  of  the  Principles  upon  which 
the  Slide  Bule  is  Constructed,  together  with  the  Method 
of  its  Application  to  all  the  Purposes  of  the  Practical 
Mechanic.    By  William  Toukes.         -  -       25  cents. 


Rhymes  of  Science :   Wise  and  Otherwise. 

By  O.  W.  Holmes,  Bret  Harte,  Ingoldsby,  Prof.  Forbes, 
Prof.  J.  TV.  M<-Q.  Bankine,  Hon.  B.  W.  Baymond,  and 
others.    With  Illustrations.    Cloth,  Gilt  Title,  50  cents. 

"We  advise  all  our  readers  into  whose  souls  the  sunlight  of  fun  ever 
enters  to  purchase  this  little  book.  "  Making  light  of  cereous  things  " 
has  been  said,  by  a  high  authority,  to  be  "  a,  wicked  profession,"  but  the 
genius  which  can  balance  the  ponderosity  of  an  ichthyosaur  upon  the 
delicate  point  of  a  euphonious  rhyme,  or  bear  aloft  a  bulky  lepto- 
rhyncus  on  the  sparkling  foam  of  a  soul-stirring  love  ditty,  is  worthy- 
worthy  of  a  purchaser.— Philadelphia  Medical  Neics. 

Instruction  in  the  Art  of  Wood  Engraving. 

A  Manual  of  Instruction  in  the  Art  of  Wood  Engraving; 
with  a  Description  of  the  Necessary  Tools  and  Apparatus, 
and  Concise  Directions  for  their  Use;  Explanation  of 
the  Terms  Used,  and  the  Methods  Employed  for  Pro- 
ducing the  Various  Classes  of  Wood  Engravings.  By 
S.  E.  Fuller.  Fully  Illustrated  with  Engravings  by  the 
author,  separate  sheets  of  engravings  for  transfer 
and  practice  being  added.  New  Edition,  Neatly 
Bound,        ------       50  cents. 


What  to  Do  in  Case  of  Accident. 

What  to  Do  and  How  to  Do  It  in  Case  of  Accident.    A 
Book  for  Everybody.    12  mo.,  Cloth,  Gilt  Title,  50  cents. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  useful  books  ever  published.  It  tells  exactly 
what  to  do  in  case  of  accidents,  such  as  Severe  Cuts,  Sprains,  Disloca- 
tions, Broken  Bones,  Burns  with  Fire,  Scalds,  Burns  with  Corrosive 
Chemicals,  Sunstroke,  Suffocation  by  Foul  Air,  Hanging,  Drowning, 
Frost-Bite.  Fainting,  Stings,  Bites,  Starvation,  Lightning,  Poisons, 
Accidents  from  Machinery  and  from  the  Falling  of  Scaffolding,  Gun- 
shot Wounds,  etc.,  etc.  It  ought  to  be  In  every  house,  for  young  and 
old  are  Liable  to  accident,  and  the  directions  given  in  this  book  might 
be  the  mourn*  of  suviug  many  a  valuable  life. 


THE  WORKSHOP  COMPANION. 

A   Collection    of  Useful   stiul    Reliable    Recipe*. 

Boles,    Proceeoeo,    Methods,    Wrialdeo, 

and    Practical    Iliats, 

ron  tup:  housemiow  .i.vn  the:  shop. 


(  !<  INTENTS. 

Abyssinian  Gold:— Accidents,  General  Rules;— Alabaster,  how  to  work,  polish  and 
clean;— -Alcohol:— Alloys,  rules  for  making,  and  26  recipes;— Amber,  how  to  work, 
polish  and  mend ;— Annealing  and  Hardening  glass,  copper,  steel,  etc. ;— Arsenical 
Soap -—Arsenical  Powder  ;  — Heeswax,  how  to  bleach:— Blackboards,  how  to  make ;— 
Brass' how  to  work,  polish,  color,  varnish,  whiten,  deposit  by  electricity,  clean,  etc., 
etc  •  —Brazing  and  Soldering: — Bronzing  brass,  wood,  leather,  etc.; — Burns,  how  to 
cure— Case-hardening;— Catgut,  how  prepared  ;—  Cements,  general  rules  for  using,  and 
56  recipes  for  preparing;— Copper,  working,  welding,  depositing  ;— Coral,  artificial:  — 
Cork,  working;— Crayons  for  Blackboards  ;— Curling  brass,  iron,  etc.  ;— Liquid  Cu- 
ticle'—Etching  copper,  steel,  glass;— Eye,  accidents  to;— Fires,  to  prevent ;— Clothes  on 
Fire '_Kireproof  Dresses;— Fly  Papers  ;— Freezing  Mixtures,  6  recipes  ;— Fumigating 
Pastils;—  C.ilding  metal,  leather,  wood,  etc.  .—Class,  cutting,  drilling,  turning  in  the 
lathe,  fitting  stoppers,  removing  tight  stoppers,  powdering,  packing,  imitating  ground 
ashing  glass  vessels,  etc.  : — Grass,  Dry,  to  stain; — Guns,  to  make  shoot  close, 
to  keep  from  rusting,  to  brown  the  barrels  of,  etc.,  etc.  ; — Handles,  to  fasten  ;— Irk-, 
rules  for  selecting  and  preserving,  and  34  recipes  for ;— Ink  Eraser ;— Inlaying;  — Iron, 
forging  welding,  case-hardening,  zincing,  tinning,  do.  in  the  cold,  brightening,  etc., 
etc  ;— Ivory,  to  work,  polish,  bleach,  etc.  ;— Javelle  Water  ;_ Jewelry  and  Gilded  Ware, 
care  of,  cleaning,  coloring,  etc.  ; — Lacquer,  how  to  make  and  apply: — Laundry'  Gloss ; — 
Skeleton  Leaves:— Lights,  signal  and  colored,  also  for  tableaux,  photography,  etc.,  25 
recipes; — Lubricators,  selection  of,  4  recipes  for  ; — Marble,  working,  polishing,  clean- 
ing;— Metals,  polishing  ; — Mirrors,  care  of,  to  make,  pure  silver,  etc.,  etc.  : — Nickel, 
to  plate  with  without  a  battery; — Noise,  prevention  of; — Painting  Bright  Metals: — 
Paper,  adhesive,  barometer,  glass,  tracing,  transfer,  waxed,  etc. ; — Paper,  to  clean,  take 
creases  out  of,  remove  water  stains,  mount  drawing  paper,  to  prepare  for  varnishing, 
etc  ,  etc. ;— Patina: — Patterns,  to  trace:— Pencils,  inde'ible; — Pencil  Marks,  to  fix; — 
Pewter:— Pillows  for  Sick  Room,  cheap  and  good  ;— Plaster-of-Paris.  how  to  work;  — 
Poisons,  antidotes  for,  12  recipes: — Polishing  Powders,  preparation  and  use  of  (six 
pages); — Resins,  their  properties,  etc.: — Saws,  how  to  sharpen; — Sieves; — Shellac, 
properties  and  uses  of; — Silver,  properties  of,  oxidized,  old,  cleaning,  to  remove  ink 
stains  from,  to  dissolve  from  plated  goods,  etc..  etc.  : — Silvering  metals,  leather,  iron. 
etc.  : — Size,  preparation  of  various  kinds  of: — Skins,  tanning  and  curing,  do  with  hair 
on; — Stains,  to  remove  from  all  kinds  of  goods; — Steel,  tempering  and  working  (six 
pages); — Tin,  properties,  methods  of  working; — Varnish,  21  recipes  for; — Varnishing. 
directions  for; — Voltaic  Batteries: — Watch,  care  of; — Waterproofing,  7  recipes  for;  — 
Whitewash: — Wood  Floors,  waxing,  staining,  and  polishing; — Wood,  polishing  :  — - 
Wood,  staining,  17  recipes; — Zinc,  to  pulverize,  black  varnish  for. 

164  closely-printed  pases,  neatly  bound.     Sent  bv  mail  for  S6  cents 
(postage  stamps  receive.!), 


A     \EW    SERIES    OF   PRACTICAL    BOOKS. 

WORK  MANUALS. 

The  intention  of  the  publishers  is  to  give  in  this  Series  a  number  of  small  books  which 
will  give  Thorough  and  Reliable  Information  in  the  plainest  possible  language,  upon  the 

ARTS    OF*    EVERYDAY    LIFE. 

Each  volume  will  be  by  some  one  who  is  not  only  practically  familiar  with  his  subject, 
but  who  has  the  ability  to  make  it  clear  to  others.  The  volumes  will  each  contain  from 
50  to  75  pages .  will  be  neatly  and  clearly  printed  on  good  paper  and  bound  in  tough 
and  durable  binding.     The  price  will  be  25  cents  each,  or  Jive  for  (hie  Dollar. 

The  following  are  the  titles  of  the  volumes  already  issued.  Others  will  follow  at 
short  intervals. 

I.  Cements  and  Glue. 

A  Practical  Treatise  on  the  Preparation  and  Use  of  All  Kinds  of  Cements,  Glue 
and  Paste.     By  John    Phin,  Editor  of  the   Youtig  Scientist  and  the  A  merica* 
y our na I  of  Microscopy 
Every-  mechanic  and  householder  will  find  this  volume  ot  almost  everyday  use.     It 

contains  nearly  200  recipes  for  the  preparation  of  Cements  for  almost  every  conceivable 

purpose. 

II.  The  Slide  Rule,  and  How  to  Use  It. 

This  is  a  compilation  of  Explanations,  Rules  and  Instructions  suitable  for  mechanics 
and  others  interested  in  the  industrial  arts.  Rules  are  given  for  the  measurement  of 
all  kinds  of  boards  and  planks,  timber  11  the  round  or  square,  glaziers'  work  and  paint- 
ing, brickwork,  paviors'  work,  tiling  and  slating,  the  measurement  of  vessels  of  various 
shapes,  the  wedge,  inclined  planes,  wheels  and  axles,  levers,  the  weighing  and  meas- 
urement of  metals  and  all  solid  bodies,  cylinders,  cones,  globes,  ortagon  rules  and 
formulae,  the  measurement  of  circles,  and  a  comparison  of  French  and  English  measures, 
with  much  other  information,  useful  to  builders,  carpenters,  bricklayers,  glazieis, 
paviors,  slaters,  machinists  and  other  mechanics. 

Possessed  of  this  little  Book  and  a  good  Slide  Rule,  mechanics  might  carry  in  their 
pockets  some  hundreds  ot  times  the  power  of  calculation  that  they  now  have  in  the- 
heads,  and  the  use  of  the  instrument  is  very  easily  acquired. 

III.  Hints  for  Painters,  Decorators  and  Paperhangers. 

Being  a  selection  of  Useful  Rules,  Data,  Memoranda,  Methods  and  Suggestions 
for  House,  Ship,  and  Furniture  Painting,  Paperhanging,  Gilding,  Color  Mixing, 
and  other  matters  Useful  and  Instructive  to  Painters  and  Decorators.  Prepared 
with   Special  Reference  to  the  Wants  of  Amateurs.     By  an  Old  Hand. 

IV.  Construction,  Use  and  Care  of  Drawing  Instruments. 

Being  a  Treatise  on  Draughting  Instruments,  with  Rules  for  their  Use  and  Care, 
Explanations  of  Scale .,  Sectors  and  Protractors.  Together  with  Memoranda  for 
Draughtsmen,  Hints  on  Purchasing  Paper,  Ink,  Instruments,  Pencils,  etc.  Alsoa 
Price  List  of  all  materials  required  by  Draughtsmen.  Illustrated  with  twenty-four 
Explanatory  Illustrations.     By  Fred.  T,  Hodgson. 

V.  The  Steel  Square. 

Some  Difficult  Problems  in  Carpentry  and  Joinery  Simplified  and  Solved  by  the 
aid  of  the  Carpenters'  Steel  Square,  together  with  a  Full  Description  of  the  Tool. 
and  Explanations  of  the  Scales,  Lines  and  Figures  on  the  Blade  and  Tongue,  and 
How  to  Use  them  in  Everyday  Work.  Showing  how  the  Square  may  be  Used 
in  Obtaining  the  Lengths  and  Bevels  of  Rafters,  Hips,  Groins,  Braces,  Brackets, 
Purlins,  Collar-Beams,  and  Jack-Raftcis.  Also,  its  Application  in  Obtaining 
the  Bevels  and  Cuts  for  Hoppers,  Spiing  Mouldings,  Octajons,  Diminished 
Styles,  etc.,  etc.  Illustrated  by  Numerous  Wood-cuts.  By  Fred.  T.  Hodgson, 
Author  of  the  ''Carpenters'  Stce'  Square. 
JVote.—  This  work  is  intended  as  an  elementary  introduction  for  the  u.cof  thoie  who 
have  not  time  to  study  Mr.  Hodgson's  larger  work  on  the  same  subject. 


GETTY   CENTER   LIBRARY 


3  3 


25  000 


2  3584 


